Re: [Amc-list] Dang left-braking car, anyway

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

On 4/23/2008 12:36 AM, Tom Jennings spouted this sage advice:
> On Tue, 22 Apr 2008, Ray Mick wrote:
> 
>> I have a 71 Javelin 6 cylinder with 9 inch drums I have yet to figure
>> out why one adjuster continually gets tighter and tighter and the car
>> starts pulling done everything you have to this point and still no
>> luck Hoping you would come up with the answer. Next thing to do is to
>> put on discs.
> 
> It's gotta be wrong (left vs. right) adjuster on the
> ever-tightening side... right hand thread on the left wheel
> and left hand thread on the right wheel.

An easy way to test that is to push down on the adjuster wheel on the 
outside edge (side away from the car). If the screw gets shorter, that's 
your problem. If it's correctly assembled otherwise, you can usually get 
the adjuster out by retracting it all the way and removing the lower 
spring. Also, when you take the stationary part off, they are typically 
marked right and left. While you are messing with the adjusters, clean 
the threads if they are rusty and lightly lubricate them and the inside 
of the stationary part. I usually use lithium grease for this but 
anti-seize will also work.

The other thing it could be (not that I ever did this) is that the 
brakes are assembled backwards. The adjusting mechanism (cable or rods 
and the arm) should be on the rear shoe. If you go to 
http://www.mattsoldcars.com/RestoreAmerican/ebrake-pics.shtml and scroll 
about 2/3 of the way down the page, figure E shows a correctly assembled 
Bendix drum brake. Wagner types are similar (the adjusting mechanism is 
different but the general orientation is the same).

Also, if you have a TSM, the brake section is very detailed. It shows 
good pictures of assembled brakes and the assembly instructions will 
tell you the correct order to install parts in.

Matt

-- 
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
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