AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 61
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 61
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- Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 16:17:38 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: '66 Rambler V8 automatic kickdown cable wanted (EBay want
it now) (Frank Bailey)
2. bad bearing (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
3. Re: bad bearing (d stohler)
4. Re: bad bearing (Mark Price)
5. (no subject) (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
6. Re: (no subject) (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
7. Re: New look at an old car (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
8. Re: bad bearing (Sandwich Maker)
9. Re: bad bearing (Mark Price)
10. Re: New look at an old car (Sandwich Maker)
11. Re: New look at an old car (Mark Price)
12. Re: [BaadAssGremlins] custom die cast cars? (Eddie Stakes)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 20:10:28 -0500
From: Frank Bailey <amcrambler@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] '66 Rambler V8 automatic kickdown cable wanted
(EBay want it now)
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
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From: Frank Bailey <amcrambler@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] '66 Rambler V8 automatic kickdown cable wanted (EBay want it now)
Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2006 20:10:28 -0500
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 07:12:50 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] bad bearing
To: <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A3035E04@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I thought it might be a tubular shaft with no center bearing! The solid
and two piece ones do have a center bearing -- at least I'm pretty sure
the two piece does (know for a fact the solid does). It's rare that the
center bearing goes out since it's protected from the elements.
You'll have to pull an axle and get the number off the outer bearing.
Then match the number. The chain stores MIGHT have a bearing number
cross reference, but a bearing and drive supply WILL (look in yellow
pages under bearings and drives). If there are no bearing and drive
supplies in Lawton KS try a NAPA. They deal with a lot of industrial
customers and are more likely to be able to do something for you.
I'm reasonably sure you have an AMC 15. It will have the drain plug in
the rear cover. An AMC 20 has no plug in the cover -- it's in the front
of the housing center section.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 05:41:21 -0800 (PST)
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] bad bearing
To: amc list <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <8783.86950.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
ok, my drain plug is in the rear cover. but what about
the "spicer" axles that i keep gettin told it should
be from the parts stores? none, i mean NONE of the
parts stores here, or online show amc 15. either
spicer 27A, or spicer 53. are they the same thing,
just a different name for them maybe? if it actually
is the amc 15, how hard would it maybe be to adapt
dana 35 one piece, none c clip axle shafts, and maybe
later model drum brakes, that parts are more availible
and cheaper for, or did the 35 come with disk brakes
that might fit before they went to the mopar flange?
my mysteryous noise i thought was a bearing is
noticeably quieter now. i guess maybe it was all the
gunk in the tranny.
they closed post today case we got about 2" of snow.
ft sill gets a little dusting of snow, and post is
closed. now i got all day, and no idea what im going
to do...
dave stohler
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 5:41:21 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] bad bearing
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <24005487.1164894081404.JavaMail.root@web30>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Once the numbers are in hand if none of the local places are any help do an online search. A few computers ago I had a file of several places to source bearings online. All gone now, but it should be fairly easy to search out.
If the numbers aren't common, the online places will likely be as fast as ordering local and a lot cheaper too! I needed an obscure bearing a while back and could order a 10 pack cheaper online then I could buy one local!
Plus if you call and tell them what you need they won't be near as likely to act like you are an idiot for bothering them!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- "Swygert wrote:
> I thought it might be a tubular shaft with no center bearing! The solid
> and two piece ones do have a center bearing -- at least I'm pretty sure
> the two piece does (know for a fact the solid does). It's rare that the
> center bearing goes out since it's protected from the elements.
>
> You'll have to pull an axle and get the number off the outer bearing.
> Then match the number. The chain stores MIGHT have a bearing number
> cross reference, but a bearing and drive supply WILL (look in yellow
> pages under bearings and drives). If there are no bearing and drive
> supplies in Lawton KS try a NAPA. They deal with a lot of industrial
> customers and are more likely to be able to do something for you.
>
> I'm reasonably sure you have an AMC 15. It will have the drain plug in
> the rear cover. An AMC 20 has no plug in the cover -- it's in the front
> of the housing center section.
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 07:41:11 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] (no subject)
To: <Mad57chevy@xxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A3035E35@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
That is correct -- a NEW hub must be placed on a new or used axle. A
used hub should ONLY be placed back on the axle it came from.
The hub is made of a slightly softer metal than the axle. The tapered
hole in the hub that fits over the end of the axle has NO splines in it
from the factory -- a new hub is perfectly smooth inside. That axle has
shallow, hardened splines (the whole axle is hardened steel, of course).
When a new hub is fitted and torqued down to 250 lb/ft, the axle
actually "cuts" new splines in the hub. Put a hub on with splines
already cut from another axle and it isn't likely to last long as the
splines aren't likely to line up correctly and they are very close
together. I don't know about damaging the axle, apparently it could. The
main purpose of the key is to put the hub on the same way if you have to
take it off for bearing/seal/brake backing plate service. It does carry
a little load, but not much.
Mike, your best bet is to use another complete rear end, or just pull
the complete axle/hub/brake backing plate from another rear end. While
you have all that out consider taking the axle to a machine shop so they
can press off the hub and replace the seal and bearing. Then you can
replace the race. DO NOT replace the bearing without replacing the race
in the end of the axle tube too! The bearing and race are match
machined. Mis-match the bearing with a different race and it's not
likely to last long. If you swap axles only (not the whole rear end) you
will have to replace the end bearing.
You can swap gears if the rear end you bought as a replacement doesn't
have the same gearing. If it came from a car with the same engine and
transmission combination as yours you should be fine though. Setting up
gears has to be done just right! You can do it with a dial indicator as
described in the Chilton's manual, but you can find instructions on the
web on how to do it by sight
(http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html is one). Basically you
put a coloring agent on the gears and look at the pattern it makes on
the teeth. Once the correct pattern shows up, you're good to go. Note
that there isn't a lot of leeway for adjustment. If the gears are in
wrong they will chew themselves up in short order. Most instructions,
like the link above, use the pattern as a final check. You can use it to
set the gears, but you should purchase 2-3 crush collars. Once a collar
is crushed that's it! If you have the incorrect pattern you may have to
put in a new collar and start over. Usually you can "sneak up" on the
pattern by tightening the pinion nut a little at a time. This takes a
lot of time as you have to put on the compound, check pattern, clean,
tighten a little, then start over, but it works. Don't try using the
compound more than a couple times (I really suggest cleaning between
EVERY check!), and when you think you have it clean thoroughly and check
again. If you take the rear end and used gears to a shop they will
charge about $200 to install for you. That might be the best bet! Pull
the axles first, they just need the housing, differential, and gears
(unless they are going to replace the end bearings and seals too, of
course).
----- Original Message -----
From: Mad57chevy@xxxxxxx
To: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: amc parts
hi eddie,im mike from new jersey, i just bought a 76 pacer dl model, im
looking
for the drivers side rear, axel, hub, backing plate. as mine are bent
and
broken from the previous owner. i located a nos axel from ebay, not
sure if it
will fit my ratio but i bought it just in case you dont see many of
those
floating around, now the chiltons says that i can not replace a new axel
on a
used hub it will damage the teeth, not sure myself.plus mine ar bent any
way .
sorry to ramble any idea where i can find these either new or used
thanks mike
609-276-0685 verizon cell.
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 07:42:53 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] (no subject)
To: <Mad57chevy@xxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A3035E3E@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Here's another link for setting up ring and pinion gears.
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/differentials.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Mad57chevy@xxxxxxx
To: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: amc parts
hi eddie,im mike from new jersey, i just bought a 76 pacer dl model, im
looking
for the drivers side rear, axel, hub, backing plate. as mine are bent
and
broken from the previous owner. i located a nos axel from ebay, not
sure if it
will fit my ratio but i bought it just in case you dont see many of
those
floating around, now the chiltons says that i can not replace a new axel
on a
used hub it will damage the teeth, not sure myself.plus mine ar bent any
way .
sorry to ramble any idea where i can find these either new or used
thanks mike
609-276-0685 verizon cell.
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 08:21:27 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] New look at an old car
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A3035E91@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
2.73 might be a bit much for a three speed 195.6 to pull starting off. I
don't recall what the stock rear gearing was, will have to check. A four
or five speed with a lower first would work well, but 2.73 wouldn't do
with an OD. My 63 American with auto had 3.15 gears stock, 3.31 as the
performance gears (which I had). A 3.08 might be a better choice,
depending on the first gear ratio in the T-14.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 09:42:10 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] bad bearing
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611301442.kAUEgAY10866@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
"
" ok, my drain plug is in the rear cover. but what about
" the "spicer" axles that i keep gettin told it should
" be from the parts stores? none, i mean NONE of the
" parts stores here, or online show amc 15. either
" spicer 27A, or spicer 53. are they the same thing,
" just a different name for them maybe?
no chance they're the same thing. for a visual comparison the d35
cover is exactly the same; most cherokees - all with abs - have d35s.
many wranglers too. there must be at least one on the post...
the mopar 8.25" is the other common axle and unfortunately it looks
similar.
or you could go online and look for aftermkt d35 covers. they're
certainly around; i've seen finned aluminum and even clear plexiglas!
" if it actually
" is the amc 15, how hard would it maybe be to adapt
" dana 35 one piece, none c clip axle shafts, and maybe
" later model drum brakes, that parts are more availible
" and cheaper for, or did the 35 come with disk brakes
" that might fit before they went to the mopar flange?
i've been thinking this over. the early d35 has amc20 housing flange
ends, not amc15, so presumably the bearing retainers have the amc20
pattern too. perhaps it would be easy to drill the retainers for the
amc15 pattern, but it might actually be easier to adapt c-clip axles,
though that would require a new chuck. maybe you can simply reuse
your old retainers with new seals...
fyi there were no factory disks on the early d35, but the housing
flange pattern is also used on some fords and there's a popular crown
vic rear disk swap. that doesn't help you though.
i don't know of any disk setups that'll fit the amc15 save perhaps hot
rod weld-on caliper brackets.
later amc15 brakes are straightforward. best would be the 10" from
late '70s - early '80s spirit amxes and concord wagons with sixes.
in fact if you find such a donor, get the whole brake system - front
disks, spindles and caliper brackets, master cyl, and proportioning
valve. the master might take a little work [maybe not] but everything
else bolts on. you might want the 14x6" rims too if you plan to run
radials; they do best on wider rims even if you're not going up in
size. some [many?] of the steelies still have the knobs for the
little dogdish hubcaps; i have two sets, for summer and snow tires.
" they closed post today case we got about 2" of snow.
" ft sill gets a little dusting of snow, and post is
" closed. now i got all day, and no idea what im going
" to do...
i have to chuckle at this. we're tying our record for snowfall in
november [none] and it's gonna be in the 60s today, but nobody around
here would even blink at 2" of snow.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 6:59:23 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] bad bearing
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <32647606.1164898763701.JavaMail.root@web30>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
yeah, I love it when people in the non snow areas get snow! An inch or two and they roll up the sidewalks and batten down the hatches!
WVU has only closed up twice in the 16 years I've lived here! the first time it took 3+ feet of snow to do it! The second was less dramatic, but still a lot more than 2' of snow!
Today is in the high 60's Tomorrow they forecast a 30* temp drop on 5-6 hours and winter should be here! Not that it makes me happy or anything!
Cold weather brings on aches and pains, Fighting with my Neck/Back dr for a PT referral gives me a headache! He says, " We don't do PT for nonsurgery patinets"!
4 months down and he won't allow PT!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> " From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
> " they closed post today case we got about 2" of snow.
> " ft sill gets a little dusting of snow, and post is
> " closed. now i got all day, and no idea what im going
> " to do...
>
> i have to chuckle at this. we're tying our record for snowfall in
> november [none] and it's gonna be in the 60s today, but nobody around
> here would even blink at 2" of snow.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 10:12:35 -0500 (EST)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] New look at an old car
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200611301512.kAUFCZ211021@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" 2.73 might be a bit much for a three speed 195.6 to pull starting off. I
" don't recall what the stock rear gearing was, will have to check. A four
" or five speed with a lower first would work well, but 2.73 wouldn't do
" with an OD.
i agree here. 199 americans were available with 3.08s and o/d set to
engage at only 38mph. based on the way my 199 pulls 3.08s in top it
ought to be an excellent cruiser at 50 or 60, but i've heard it's
marginal. perhaps it's just differing expectations.
2.73s should be out entirely with a 5sp, especially considering the o/d
5th ratio most have. otoh 3.77s or 3.55s would work well with a very
tall o/d.
" My 63 American with auto had 3.15 gears stock, 3.31 as the
3.15?!? that's an amc20 ratio...
" performance gears (which I had). A 3.08 might be a better choice,
" depending on the first gear ratio in the T-14.
this is odd. most of the t14s, and all the early ones, had a 2.63 1st
like the t96. but some of the later t14s had a 3.10 1st, and at least
from my mitchell interchange perusal i couldn't see any pattern as to
which gear was used when. perhaps they went with tall axle gears, but
the mitchell didn't note that. maybe it was just top o' the pile...
if you can pull a 3.08 with the stock t96, you oughta be able to pull
2.53s with a 3.10 1st.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 7:52:36 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] New look at an old car
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <14165134.1164901956331.JavaMail.root@web30>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Don't forget he is building in this car for use in Florida as a daily driver.
The high axle gear may well work in his situation.
Jim has the axle, Once it is installed it's an easy swap to go to a different axle with steeper gears if it doesn't work.
If he is at all concerned he should look into what trans he has and check it's first gear ratio. That will give him a good idea of how far he is straying [if at all] from a factory offered ratio combination. The clutches on the old cars were designed for a soft takeup and should help out alittle with driveability.
What's he have to loose? Some time.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> " From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> "
> " 2.73 might be a bit much for a three speed 195.6 to pull starting off. I
> " don't recall what the stock rear gearing was, will have to check. A four
> " or five speed with a lower first would work well, but 2.73 wouldn't do
> " with an OD.
>
> i agree here. 199 americans were available with 3.08s and o/d set to
> engage at only 38mph. based on the way my 199 pulls 3.08s in top it
> ought to be an excellent cruiser at 50 or 60, but i've heard it's
> marginal. perhaps it's just differing expectations.
>
> 2.73s should be out entirely with a 5sp, especially considering the o/d
> 5th ratio most have. otoh 3.77s or 3.55s would work well with a very
> tall o/d.
>
> " My 63 American with auto had 3.15 gears stock, 3.31 as the
>
> 3.15?!? that's an amc20 ratio...
>
> " performance gears (which I had). A 3.08 might be a better choice,
> " depending on the first gear ratio in the T-14.
>
> this is odd. most of the t14s, and all the early ones, had a 2.63 1st
> like the t96. but some of the later t14s had a 3.10 1st, and at least
> from my mitchell interchange perusal i couldn't see any pattern as to
> which gear was used when. perhaps they went with tall axle gears, but
> the mitchell didn't note that. maybe it was just top o' the pile...
>
> if you can pull a 3.08 with the stock t96, you oughta be able to pull
> 2.53s with a 3.10 1st.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 2006 09:48:15 -0600
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] [BaadAssGremlins] custom die cast cars?
To: <BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <007101c7149a$8318d3f0$abf1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Doc's right on that, especially with diecast. There is more on this in my
'JUST STUFF' file on my site talking about 'your car is the star' program by
Johnny Lightning.
Alternatives! My suggestion would be to get ahold of a number of diecasts
like the big ERTL AMXs that are common colors and easily found like big bad
blue, hunter green, white to name three colors. You can buy these highly
detailed 1:18th (about a foot long) off ebay all the time cheap. You might
also consider something already done like the Motormax Gremlins and Pacers
in larger size, those are all over Wal Marts here for $9.97. And buy up X
amount, then get Tommytoys to customize them. www.tommytoyz.com/ (their
website don't appear but their phone and area in Minnesota is on a google
search).
But armed with X amount, find out how much it would cost to customize a run
of them. I don't know if some of you remember a few years ago people were
sending ERTL's up to them and they made 60 AMXs 'restoration projects' I
believe 100 Big Bad Green (well before the Toys R Us exclusive came out!)
and several other limited ones. They would take out of box, customize,
reseal them and send back. The BBG AMXs were selling for $250-$400 each. The
Resto AMXs usually sold in the $100 range. Again, on the front of the box it
read '1 of 60' or '1 of 100' so people jast had to have them for their
personal collections. Possibly if you are considering doing a Gremlin or
Pacer or AMX use what already exists.
Another note. I wanted to have a 'commemorative AMX' done for the super
nationals in Kenosha in 1998 which was the largest AMC event in history (and
I think it was bigger that 2002 in terms of attendance and vehicles on/off
field) but I contacted PM about having one done, probably a 68-69 aMX or a
71-72 AMX as the dies were already done. For a 'mimimum run' of 10,000
vehicles (I supply the artwork on back of the card) it would have exceeded
$20,000. Needless to say I backed off real quick.
The Buick club years ago did however have a limited run of the GSX and was
selling thru their club store for something like $10 to clubmembers, and $15
to non clubmembers. Maybe we can get a 'badassgremlin' small custom diecast
made for this group modeled after Barts red car or something, someone simply
go pick up all these damned little Fresh Cherries on shelves right now and
take them out and if you have a steady hand before land of starbucks, you
can hand paint them. Or take rivets out and custom paint them. There are a
lot of ways around this.
If you looked closely at some of my auctions, you will see one of none made
miniatures I custom painted myself before I had some coffee so hands weren't
shaking like Janet Reno on Paxil.
Brat Stop: this has a custom miniature convertible Rebel Machine I made,
modeled after my own real car:
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/amcdealerships/amcdship23.jpg
Barton Motors:
Here is a NASCAR 73 Matador #16 I hand painted:
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/amcdealerships/amcdealership18.jpg
The late Steven Schall's convertible red AMX is on the front steps here:
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/amcdealerships/amcdealership26.jpg
Stakes' Conoco has a stealth black AMX with Centerlines:
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/amcdealerships/stakes_conoco6.jpg
and the Kenosha factory has several!!
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/amcdealerships/kenosha10.jpg
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/amcdealerships/kenosha12.jpg
So to me at least it can be done, but probably with existing models and
diecasts! PS: all of the above miniatures are currently on ebay int he
shameless plug department.
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
Email is currently HEAVY
5-12 day reply times, call if important
----- Original Message -----
From: <AMC74HORNET@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2006 5:05 AM
Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] custom die cast cars?
> Being a model car builder since 1957 and a some time AMC diecast
> collector I have never heard of anyone offering to make one of custom
> diecast's. The amount of time and money involved would prevent this. You
> may find what you want being made by a resin body maker but usually it
> is just a body, bumpers and a grill with glass and an interior tub. You
> would need another production kit to finish it. If what you want is
> saleable you might talk one of the resin companies to make what you are
> looking for as most resin makers are small cottage industries. But then
> again if it is a one time thing I doubt a resin maker would be
> interested because of the same reasons I stated on the diecast's time
> and price.
> "Doc"
>
>
>
>
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