Re: [AMC-list] Car is running, turn key off, take out of ignition - sti
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Re: [AMC-list] Car is running, turn key off, take out of ignition - still running



You are using a wire fromthe alternator, not the right switched ignition
wire. Once the car is running, the alternator puts out 12V. Hence, once it's
started, the rotating alternator makes the voltage to run the ignition.

Why it starts I dunno -- switched feed to the alternator, or simply, the car
starts easily, and the low voltage output by the alt while cranking is
enough to start.

Find the right wire, wire it right, and it will be fine.

I can see why hat would be tought to find!



On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 14:19, Bruce Griffis <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> I tested the "switched" wire. The yellow lead coming in to the
> positive side of the coil. I connected the battery up. I put a tester
> on the positive and negative side of the coil, the yellow wire coming
> in to the positive side and the prongs on the ballast resistor for
> good luck (I can see a bit of the prongs even when the wires are
> connected). With the key OFF and out of the ignition and battery
> connected, no light.
>
> I then put the key in and turned it to accessory. Got light from the
> tester on the positive and negative sides of the coil, and from both
> prongs on the ballast resistor. I started the car and checked again.
> Same light, same places.
>
> I then turned the ignition key off and took the keys out of the
> ignition. The car continued  running. I got lights on both the
> positive and negative terminals on the coil, and on the prongs on the
> ballast resistor.
>
> I then stalled the car out, with the keys out of the ignition. This
> time I got NO light on the positive and negative sides of the coil,
> nor did I get light at the ballast resistor. I made no other changes
> other than stalling the engine.
>
> Finally, I tested with the keys in the ignition, but in the off
> position. No lights.
>
>
> I think I will start by disconnecting all leads (one by one) and
> cleaning them. Then reconnect. I'll see if that makes a difference.
>
> >
> >
> > "Switched 12V" means the wire that has 12V on it when ignition is on, 0V
> > when ignition is off. If you are using the wrong wire from the harness,
> or
> > running a wire to the battery or alt, it won't shut off.
> >
> > You should test that wire to make sure there's no voltage on it when the
> car
> > is off. A test lamp will do.
> >
> >
> >
> > switched 12V from harness --> resistor end "A" (just made that name up)
> > resistor end "B" to coil +
> >
> > pertronix red wire to switched 12V, resistor end "A".
> >
> > pertronix black wire to coil -
> >
> > That's all there is.
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > All of your arguments are invalid.
> > Enjoy your unstable system.
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-- 
All of your arguments are invalid.
Enjoy your unstable system.
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