Re: [Amc-list] 7 Main Bearing engine into 62 Classic
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Re: [Amc-list] 7 Main Bearing engine into 62 Classic



Bruce Griffis wrote:

> I'll try replacing the head gasket one more time and not put so much
> Permatex Copper tube goo on it. I'm thinking I did a poor job on the
> headgasket and that is part of my problems (exhaust is blue from oil,
> but also has a HECK of a lot of condensation in it. Not sure if I got
> a problem with rings and headgasket, or just one, or just the other.

Oh you;ll get it to go.

Get a box of 100 single-edged razor blades (you don't need that many; 
but having a box of 100 you wont be stingy with them) and get the entire 
block deck surface clean to metal. If it's dark grey or black, that's 
old gasket or goo (or corrosion). Scrape it off!

YOu'll probably get a slight ring of shiny metal around each bolt hole. 
THat's block metal pulling up due to torque. It's normal if it's slight 
(not good, just normal :-)

DO the same to the head, but that shoudl be easy if you just had the 
head redone. If it's not perfect, make it so. YOu don't want metal 
filings in the engine, but lightly and carefully running a fine file 
over the deck, then head surface, will reveal high spots (like if the 
head klunked into the block during assembly, etc). I have a short piece 
of broken file that I use for stuff like this, you can keep rags around 
it. Better to risk a bit of steel shaving than carborundum from sand 
paper. Paper's not flat either.

Solvent on CLEAN, LAUNDERED rags, wipe the sealing surfaces until the 
rags are almost clean. Then I don't even touch the surface. Smokey 
Yunick said: 'no engine ever died from being too clean' and though he 
meant internals, it applies everywhere there's an intentional seal or 
mating surface.


If you are REALLY paranoid, you could set the head on the block before 
you put any good or gaskets on, gently. It should slide smoothly, not 
rock in any direction (like zero, none, not paper width) and not have 
klunky corners to catch on anything.

You need gasket goo (Permatex Copper or something old fashioned) but 
hardly any at all. Very thin coat on all four surfaces. You should be 
able to see through it. It's hard to get really even but you shoudl get 
close. It should be dry/tacky (15 minutes is fine).

When you set the head on that final time, don't slide it. That'll mess 
up your nicely applied goo. This is tough, that head is heavy and it's 
in a deep engine compartment! But you have helpful kids!


If one of our engine experts says otherwise, believe them over me for sure!
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