Re: [Amc-list] Strut rod eliminators

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

Armand, Tom and I actually DRIVE our AMCs on a pretty regular basis, so we have more opportunity to hit things! Our cars aren't babied as much as most AMCS. I have roughly 1/8 mile of dirt road between my house and the highway, it's NOT a smooth road (though not bad...). Lots of secondary roads out here in the country too, and they aren't always maintained so well. You have a pampered Javelin! Don't be offended by that, most AMCs are a bit pampered now, though there are still a lot of drivers out there. I pamper mine a bit more now that I don't have to drive it as much. 

There shouldn't be a concern about the strut rod and control arms taking the pressure from the stiffer poly bushings. I can, however, offer a suggestion to improve it -- replace the back side of the poly bushings with a stock rubber bushing. You can get one bushing set and use a half on each side. This gives you the benefit of the stiffer polys (more precise geometry/steering) while maintaining better flexibility. You're not so worried about precise steering backing up! The car should ride better as the suspension can react a little faster also. Poly strut rod bushings front and back really stiffen the suspension up. 

You're 100% on bump steer! On an unmodified car there should be no problems with the geometry. 

------------
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 22:15:02 -0500
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Why would you be whackin a curb or a pothole???
Don't you like your AMC???   :-) 

You may be correct about the rougher ride part and the shock being worse.
I'll give you that much. I've put poly bushings in the
white Javelin's strut rods and not really noticed a rougher more shocking
ride........... but then I try not to hit pot holes and curbs. I am however
very cautious about how I raise the car up at the front, because I have
noticed the difference in the stiffness at the strut rods when the
suspension is at full droop. I have devised a block method that I place
under the lower arm at the sway bar connection and raise the car up one side
at a time and place blocks under the wheels. Actually I very seldom put the
car in the air anymore at all to avoid this issue. I fear the lower arms or
the strut rods won't be able to handle that deflection. I actually remove
the summer wheels and tires and place the old steel slots and old tires on
the car for winter storage at ground level.

When I was racing I don't recall people referring to bump steer as only
caused by the steering linkage being incorrect.......
If the suspension geometry was wrong it could also induce bumpsteer, by
changing toe, caster or camber.

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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