Re: [Amc-list] Before and After engine compartment

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

 > The second looks a lot better, but it's
> leaking (maybe thread sealant would fix it).

Sad to say, the threads are not involved in the seal. The nut only 
presses the flare against the matching "cone" in the female part.

If you're using one of those inexpensive flarin tools (I do) that is two 
bars with wingnut clamps, you need to spend a lot of very careful time 
gettin everything PERFECTLY square. What I do is, gently clamp the line 
so it stays in place, but not tighten. THEN clamp the two bars exactly 
parallel with C-clamps. THEN eyeball it carefully to make sure the end 
of the tubing is EXACTLY square with the bars, and check 90 degrees 
apart. Only then tighten the crap out of it. (Mine bows slightly right 
where the tubing is; I use another C-clamp to press the two bars 
together better. THEN when you put the flare tool on, that straddles the 
two bars. Note that if the bars were not made exactly parallel, the cone 
on the flare will be cocked and make a cocked flare.

Practice and experience does help, but it is a very frustrating too. 
ANother option is to get a pre-flared line that's too long, and 
carefully make loops to take up the slack.

I've searched, and found no tool between ther $30 piece of crap and the 
$300 real tools that do everything. I just want to flare brake line!

> Another gotcha is we put the carb together wrong, and the fast idle
> screw doesn't touch the cam plate. Gotta pull the carb and put the
> plate on correctly - right now it idles wide open (yikes!). The fast
> idle screw doesn't touch the plate at all.

(That's usually how everyone learns that sort of thing. Chances are you 
won't do it again :-)

Good luck for a Saturday cruise!!!
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