[Amc-list] Syn Lubes, a little more to it,,

["Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I have been watching the Syn lubes thread. 
Everybody has an oil preference and if your combo is working for you
great. HOWEVER,,
How many engines have you seen taken down?? As an OWNER you normally only
see the performance from the outside as it is occurring. There is really
NO way for you to tell if it was your "special-X" oil that kept your
engine alive for 100k because you did not run an identical engine in a
similar way with "special-Z" oil, then tear them down and compare them.
I am (and have been for over 40 years) an engine builder (currently an ASE
certified Master Machinist). I get to see HUNDREDS of engines at the end
of their life and try to figure out what killed them.
 
 I USED to think GM's claim that 10-40 oil was bad because it caused ring
sticking was bunk. Guess what?? IT'S NOT!
BY FAR the biggest problem I see on engine failures are STUCK OIL RINGS!!
Yes there are other things that cause engine failures, sludge being one of
them. But what I see happening is the oil rings stick causing excessive
oil consumption which unless carefully monitored causes the engine to be
run low on oil and BINGO,, bearing failure. 
 That where Syn lubes come in. I have NEVER seen an engine taken apart
that had been using Syn lube have either stuck rings OR ANY sludge! They
are remarkably clean and have twice the mileage on them that Dyno oil
motors have. That alone should make Syn lube worth the money.

Folks that say Syn lube is too expensive need to do the math. It's NOT.
100,000 miles, change oil & filter every 3k=33 oil changes. If you do your
own changes @ 5qt & filter @ $15=$495
100,000 miles, change oil & filter every 7500=13 changes. If you do your
own changes @ 5qt & filter@$30=$390
Now if you run your dyno oil further say 6k that makes it cheaper at about
$250, BUT you could run Syn lube to 9k (as I do) which would come out to
$333, pretty close. So Syn lube CAN actually be cheaper or at least cost
the same. It depends on several factors. 

The big plus is how clean it keeps your engine, and how much wear is
reduced. I have been running Mobil1 in all my motors (even the race cars!)
for YEARS with great success. I actually think Red Line is better oil but
it is twice the price as Mobil1. There is another thought that has been
around for years, thicker oil protects better. MOST engine wear is at
STARTUP, THAT'S where thick oil hurts you. Thinner oil has MUCH better
pump ability when cold so those seconds between when your engine is
started with NO oil pressure, and when the oil hits the moving parts is
MUCH less with thinner oil. Thinner better lubricating oil = MORE
HORSEPOWER. That's why the race car guys use it. I have SEEN it on the
dyno. Take dyno oil out and add syn lube (of the SAME weight),,, 8 HP
increase!!

So for ME,, it's Mobil1 10-30 changed at 7500-9000 (anywhere in there is
OK). If you have one using some oil try the 15-50, it seems to work good
on older engines. I am currently testing the Wal_Mart syn lube in my son's
Toyota truck used for Pizza Delivery. It has 60k on it now since rebuild.
Last time I adjusted the valves it was clean as a whistle inside.
 And remember not ALL syn lubes are equal!! Lubes other than Mobil1 are
still class III EVEN though they claim to be syn lubes. Mobil1 is classIV
and Red Line is classV (the best).
But HEY,,,, That's just ME.
Bruce Hevner
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