AMC-List Digest, Vol 12, Issue 3

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich (Tom Jennings)
   2. Re: plastics repair (Mark Price)
   3. Re: 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich (Mark Price)
   4. Re: 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich (Keith)
   5. Re: Exhaust Manifold Mystery (Mark Price)
   6. Re: Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket (Keith)
   7. Re: Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket (Tom Jennings)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 17:54:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0701011747440.1264@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

On Sun, 31 Dec 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:

> are all the light switches pretty much the same?. Seems I  may have a
> similar issue with the headlight switch of the 79 pacer I am working
> on, you pull the light switch out and the lights come on but when you
> turn the knob for the dash dinner, there seems to be dead spots where
> as the light intensity is supposed to increase it goes dead then
> reappears. If i play with the switch a bit the lights will increase and
> stay on. wondered if there were contact in it, like a rehostat or
> somehing to clean with tv tuner, wd 40 or something else, instead of
> replacing the swtich, or maybe the contact for it needs to be adjusted?
> thanks, regards, and HAPPY AMCNEW YEARS. Ken. boston.

I'm pretty sure they're the same! The rheostate insert migt have
changed value for some years, but I think most any will work.

They're a PITA those things. Good 600 grit polish up, a bit
more tension in the contact shoudl do it, unless it's actually
burned up (which would require a short or something). You could
put a layer of grease on it too.


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 18:13:48 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] plastics repair
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <1588972.1167704028834.JavaMail.root@web15>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Theres nothing wrong with JB weld! Quik weld and is my weapon of choice for steering column repairs! I just wanted to check on it's use with plastics. Roughed up brass for backing is a good tip. I just happen to have some of that really old copper or is it brass window screen in my garage! I'll bet that stuff will be ideal for backing the plastic as it is stiff, yet flexible.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote: 
> On Mon, 1 Jan 2007, Mark Price wrote:
> 
> >  What I'm wondering is what is best to glue or weld the piece in with and if needed what filler to use to smooth things over. It's a white plastic and is not chalking or brittle, still flexes well for it's age.
> 
> If color and fine-texture match doesn't matter, what's wrong
> with JB Weld or PC7 epoxies? I've had really good luck with
> adhesion and strength. I fixed 2 - 3 Hornet dash gauge buckets
> where they commonly split at the mounting screws, for instance. I
> back them with thin sheet brass, everything roughed up with a
> small very coarse file.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 18:22:05 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <889522.1167704525214.JavaMail.root@web15>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Most headlight switches readily interchange with easy to find GM pieces, or is it ford? GM I think. As long asit is a dash mounted switch they are 99.9% interchangeable. Some of the early 70's switches had a feature that allowed the lights to be turned on full without turning on the interior lights. Ironically a feature my 01 Dakota has too. Not that the Dak switch fits the AMC's!
  You can take the switch out and buff the spring lightly with scothbrite and use contact cleaner on it, then a light coat of die-electric grease. Tha grease may cause problems as over time it will attract dust though.
   If your night time vision is getting dim as mine is you can just bypass the rheostat and connect your gauges lights to the parking light circuit.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx> wrote: 
> are all the light switches pretty much the same?. Seems I  may have a
> similar issue with the headlight switch of the 79 pacer I am working
> on, you pull the light switch out and the lights come on but when you
> turn the knob for the dash dinner, there seems to be dead spots where
> as the light intensity is supposed to increase it goes dead then
> reappears. If i play with the switch a bit the lights will increase and 
> stay on. wondered if there were contact in it, like a rehostat or
> somehing to clean with tv tuner, wd 40 or something else, instead of
> replacing the swtich, or maybe the contact for it needs to be adjusted? 
> thanks, regards, and HAPPY AMCNEW YEARS. Ken. boston.
> 
> On December 30, 2006 Keith Kubiak wrote:
> 
> > Kent,
> >   Thanks for the advice.  I did pull the light switch out and cleaned 
> the contact point for the variable resistor with a burnishing tool.
> That did help some (no more dead spots).  The light for the center
> console was nice and bright at full illumination, so I wsn't suspecting 
> the light switch since it is on the same circuit (through the light
> switch). Actually, I am not really sure how bright these lights should
> be. I know I wasn't a bright in the 60's, so I am guessing the dash
> lights were a little dimmer than what we are used to today.
> > 
> > Keith
> > Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrument Bulbs
> > 
> > Date: Saturday, December 30, 2006 12:57 PM
> > From: KENT ANDERSON <65marlin327@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > 
> > When my Marlin popped fuses like candy, I discovered it was the light 
> switch
> > that was shorting out.  Ever since I replaced the switch, my dash
> lights are
> > nice and bright, and no more blown fuses, which means I always have
> tail
> > lights, now, too!  Just a suggestion.  Those things do wear out.
> 
> 
> =============================================================
> Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 18:24:21 -0800
From: "Keith" <55fordf100@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: KSiroonian@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <001201c72e15$1d01da00$6401a8c0@home1>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Ken,
  As Jay stated, TV tuner cleaner works good. I would not recommend WD-40 as it leaves a residue. I cleaned the contact on mine by inserting a burnish tool between the contact wiper arm and the rheostat. The burnishing tool is like a very fine file and is designed for cleaning electrcial contacts. I rotated the rheostat to ensure the rheostat was cleaned along the contact area. Burnishing tools are inexpensive ($1-$2). Any electronic parts store should have them. Even Radio Shack (I think). The contact points get dirty over time.

Here is a link showing a burnishing tool in use to clean a relay contact:  www.tpub.com/.../neets/14175/css/14175_164.htm 

Keith
San Diego

From: Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62kfzDskqC500000838@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain

are all the light switches pretty much the same?. Seems I  may have a
similar issue with the headlight switch of the 79 pacer I am working
on, you pull the light switch out and the lights come on but when you
turn the knob for the dash dinner, there seems to be dead spots where
as the light intensity is supposed to increase it goes dead then
reappears. If i play with the switch a bit the lights will increase and 
stay on. wondered if there were contact in it, like a rehostat or
somehing to clean with tv tuner, wd 40 or something else, instead of
replacing the swtich, or maybe the contact for it needs to be adjusted? 
thanks, regards, and HAPPY AMCNEW YEARS. Ken. boston.


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 18:39:05 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Exhaust Manifold Mystery
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <16320517.1167705545494.JavaMail.root@web15>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

The longer one should be the one commonly referred to as a free flow.
They flow better, but hit the strut brace on the frame of some of the cars.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Todd Tomason <jayscore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> I ran into something the other day that surprised me.  I have a set of exhaust 
> manifolds from a 78 Matador and also a set from a Grand Wagoneer (late 70's, 
> not sure of the year).  I had always assumed that they were the same, but 
> they're not.  The driver's side is the same, but the passenger side is 
> different.  The manifolds from the Wagoneer extend down 2 or 3 inches lower 
> than the ones from the Matador.  Both were V8's of course.  The Matador has a 
> 360 and the Grand Wagoneer had a 401.   
> 
> Can anybody shed any light on this?  Why would AMC have made two different 
> parts for the passenger side?
> 
> Todd
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 19:30:47 -0800
From: "Keith" <55fordf100@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <004b01c72e1e$64bf6570$6401a8c0@home1>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Here is a good article on speakers (4 and 8 ohm):

http://www.rocketroberts.com/techart/spkr.htm
Note that adding a resistor to a 4 ohm speaker will help to keep the radio's amplifier from being damaged, but you also reduce the audio signal strength. You can still get 8 ohm speakers. I bought 2 6x9's on E-bay a couple weeks ago. I only needed one. Maybe I can trade for something minor I need for my 65 Marlin. I have a short list. If anyone has some Marlin parts and would like a NEW Delco 8 ohm speaker maybe we can strike up a deal. BTW the AM/FM radio in the Marlin worked after hooking it up. Who knows how many years it has been since that radio actaully played some music. I am trying to keep it from being tuned to any Rap stations. That may kill the radio (Hah!).

Keith



Date: Monday, January 1, 2007 08:46 PM
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>

On Mon, 1 Jan 2007, JOE FULTON wrote:

> I am installing an AM radio in my 77 Gremlin (same
> dash since the early 70s I think).
>
> I need the dash speaker bracket.  I will buy a new
> speaker.  I assume a standard 6 x 9 speaker will fit,
> but would like someone also to confirm the resistance
> of the factory speaker. 8? 16?

The factory speaker is a hard to find size, like 4 x 9 or
something. I have a 6 x 9 in my 1970 hornet, but the big
magnet on modern speakers is too large to allow installing the
cardboard glovebox insert; luckily the glovebox is quite fine
without it. Once ain a while I find things like the steel tire
pressure gauge stuck up to it.

Unless 77 is a different radio that the earlier Hornet radios
(I doubt it) it wants 8 ohms. The problem today is it's hard
to find 8 ohm speakers! Because really good transistors are
now cheap and easy, 4 ohm and even 2 ohm speakers are common,
and 8 ohm hard to find.

On my truly old and delicate 63 Rambler radio, I soldered 3.9 ohm
resistor in series with a 4 ohm speaker. The old radio probably
wouldn't tolerate the bigger load on the final transistor.


(I could mail you the speaker bracket from the 73 Hornet if
you want it. The speaker however is trash)



------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2007 00:39:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket
To: Keith <55fordf100@xxxxxxx>
Cc: AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0701020035430.1264@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

On Mon, 1 Jan 2007, Keith wrote:

> Note that adding a resistor to a 4 ohm speaker will help to
> keep the radio's amplifier from being damaged, but you also
> reduce the audio signal strength. You can still get 8 ohm

Yeah, I didn't mention that. It's more than loud enough still
though. I figured it was better than a dead radio!

I bad-mouthed this radio (63 Classic, 3TMR). It's got only five
(5) transistors!

But once I aligned it accordin to the manual (I bought a vintage
Eico signal generator at a ham radio flea market a few years
back) it is actually a pretty good radio! The key seems to be
very high quality RF components.



------------------------------

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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 12, Issue 3
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