AMC-List Digest, Vol 12, Issue 2
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 12, Issue 2
- From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2007 01:48:58 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Parts WANTED!!! (William Renshaw) Vol 11, Issue 58
(Joe Del Vecchio)
2. Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket (JOE FULTON)
3. Exhaust Manifold Mystery (Todd Tomason)
4. Re: 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich (Ken Siroonian)
5. Re: 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich (Jay)
6. central penn amx/amc club contact info? (Adam Lazur)
7. Re: plastics repair (Tom Jennings)
8. Re: 2007 (Tom Jennings)
9. Re: Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket (Tom Jennings)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 07:08:20 -0800
From: "Joe Del Vecchio" <jdelvecc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Parts WANTED!!! (William Renshaw) Vol 11, Issue
58
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <200701011508.l01F8Cg0022701@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Have you heard of Rust-Free-Parts http://rust-free-parts.com/ he has good
quality parts. I've bought parts for my 69jav from him and they've been
everything I expected. He is located out in Arizona and I'm sure he can get
anything you need.
-----Original Message-----
From: amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxx [mailto:amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 4:00 AM
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: AMC-List Digest, Vol 11, Issue 58
William have you heard of Rust-Free-Parts, this guy is out of Arizona and he
has some good parts. His name is Gregg and he has a website you can visit
Send AMC-List mailing list submissions to
amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx
You can reach the person managing the list at
amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of AMC-List digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Need a rebuildable amc 401 (Jim Boone)
2. Re: 2x or 3x carb intake for 196ohv (Jim Boone)
3. Mobil Oil Economy Run -- 1964 (Tom Jennings)
4. Re: Mobil Oil Economy Run -- 1964 (amckiwi)
5. Re: Flashback - Bungs and boring. (Matt Haas)
6. Re: Mobil Oil Economy Run (John Elle)
7. AMC Ram Air Molding Repair (JOE FULTON)
8. Re; AMC Ram Air Molding Repair (John Elle)
9. fee-bay 15 cent listing wed 12-27 (Eddie Stakes)
10. Re: Mobil Economy Run - 1964 (Mr. AMC)
11. Parts WANTED!!! (William Renshaw)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 09:56:57 -0500
From: "Jim Boone" <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Need a rebuildable amc 401
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY116-F15FDF6320898FCFCE0543DACC10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>From: "Rick Hartman" <ricnmatt@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [AMC-List] Need a rebuildable amc 401
> Anyone know where I can find a AMC 401 to rebuild? I want one for a 73
>Gremlin X.
>
Make that two!
Jim Boone
Mims, FL
_________________________________________________________________
Experience the magic of the holidays. Talk to Santa on Messenger.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwme0080000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://ima
gine-windowslive.com/minisites/santabot/default.aspx?locale=en-us
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 10:04:10 -0500
From: "Jim Boone" <fljab@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 2x or 3x carb intake for 196ohv
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY116-F19BF66ABC75DCBDC1B9FE9ACC10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 2x or 3x carb intake for 196ohv
>
>I ran a home made 2x1 intake for the 196 (there are no 3x1 intakes). <snip>
A home made intake for these engines wouldn't be all that hard to make; I
have a side-draft Weber that came off my brother's performance-reworked MGB.
That car is long gone, but I had thought of making a manifold out of
stainless or easier to work aluminum and setting it up. Would be unique!
A 3 x 1 bbl setup would be good to use as well, and would solve the cylinder
fuel distribution problems inherint with a long six. The original Holley's
wouldn't be hard to come up with, and would be easy to work with IMO.
Jim Boone
Mims, FL
_________________________________________________________________
Get FREE Web site and company branded e-mail from Microsoft Office Live
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------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 11:51:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Mobil Oil Economy Run -- 1964
To: AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0612261140000.24789@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
Hope you all had a good Excessmas!
Nice mention of Rambler's success in the 1964 Mobil Oil Economy
Run -- New York Times auto section, today. The writer was the
driver of the 64 Valiant, which came in 3rd in his class, B.
It's pretty notable:
"... Our competition included a Rambler American 440 6-cylinder
driven by Les Viland, an American Motors engineer with several
economy run victories under his belt; a Chevy II 100 6-cylinder;
a Dodge Dart 170 V-8; a Chevy II Nova V-8; and a Ford Falcon
V-8. Class results were tight except for the Rambler, which
averaged 27.8336 m.p.g. and ended up with the best mileage
in the entire 1964 economy run. The Chevy II 6 was second,
at 23.2182, and my Valiant V-8 finished third, at 23.0851."
Hmm, that probably doesn't get the muscle car people all hot
and bothered, but it's very Rambler!
The description of the run was pretty interesting itself. I
wonder if you could get the U.S. culturally interested again in
cross-country events again; some sort of constraint (mileage;
Mobil Econo Run, time; Gumball Rally). It's at once very old
fashioned and made for reality-TV. It would have to involve
"ordinary" cars, otherwise it would turn into a manufacturers
marketing pissing contest. Boring; today anything goes 100mph,
and makin 300HP is routine, what's the big deal?
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 07:17:26 +1100
From: "amckiwi" <amckiwi@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Mobil Oil Economy Run -- 1964
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000001c7292a$de28a780$0200a8c0@tower>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"
They also did economy runs here in Australia I have a poster for the 1964
version
Stu
-----Original Message-----
From: amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxx [mailto:amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of Tom Jennings
Sent: Wednesday, 27 December 2006 6:51 AM
To: AMC List
Subject: [AMC-List] Mobil Oil Economy Run -- 1964
Hope you all had a good Excessmas!
Nice mention of Rambler's success in the 1964 Mobil Oil Economy
Run -- New York Times auto section, today. The writer was the
driver of the 64 Valiant, which came in 3rd in his class, B.
It's pretty notable:
"... Our competition included a Rambler American 440 6-cylinder
driven by Les Viland, an American Motors engineer with several
economy run victories under his belt; a Chevy II 100 6-cylinder;
a Dodge Dart 170 V-8; a Chevy II Nova V-8; and a Ford Falcon
V-8. Class results were tight except for the Rambler, which
averaged 27.8336 m.p.g. and ended up with the best mileage
in the entire 1964 economy run. The Chevy II 6 was second,
at 23.2182, and my Valiant V-8 finished third, at 23.0851."
Hmm, that probably doesn't get the muscle car people all hot
and bothered, but it's very Rambler!
The description of the run was pretty interesting itself. I
wonder if you could get the U.S. culturally interested again in
cross-country events again; some sort of constraint (mileage;
Mobil Econo Run, time; Gumball Rally). It's at once very old
fashioned and made for reality-TV. It would have to involve
"ordinary" cars, otherwise it would turn into a manufacturers
marketing pissing contest. Boring; today anything goes 100mph,
and makin 300HP is routine, what's the big deal?
_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
or go to http://www.amc-list.com
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------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 15:42:09 -0500
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Flashback - Bungs and boring.
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx, hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <45918921.50107@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
<snip>
> the O2 sensor is 'Original' ......with 174K miles on it -
> outdoors & up on a floor jack, we ran the engine after
> disconnecting the sensor pigtail - not much difference -
> the ECm hunted but overall that O2 sensor was shot -
> and frozen...
>
> Terry builds custom Homes & holds a Masters in Geology -
> his idea of a relaxing weekend is in mountain caves, hauling bags
> of equipment on a rope -
>
> took him 15 min. to m'oose' out the O2 sensor - and the threads
> ..........were gone right down to the barrel.> Nightfall .
<snip>
O2 sensor sockets are worth every penny (I bought a Snap-On so it was
lots of pennies but it's also the perfect size for thermal vacuum
switches). My 96 Ram was but 8 when I replaced the factory sensors. I
couldn't budge either one with box wrenches but both came right out with
the right tool. Also, it helps to run the vehicle for a few minutes so
the pipes are warm. Also make sure that you put anti-seize on the
threads of the O2 sensor.
BTW, one wire sensors are usually good for about 50,000 miles and three
and four wire senors are usually good for about 100,000 and should be
replaced around those mileages. They usually get lazy when they fail and
that doesn't usually trigger a "Check Engine" light (if they fail with a
dead short or an open, that will trigger it). If you have a problem that
makes the engine run really rich, you should also replace the O2
sensor(s) after the problem is fixed. They will get clogged with soot
and mess up the air/fuel ratio.
Also, on the surge issue, make sure the manifold and throttle body to
manifold bolts are tight. My 68 American ran like you describe at one
point but was only noticeable when hot. It turned out a few bolts
decided they'd rather occupy the side of the road instead of the engine
compartment. I replaced all the hardware, thread chased the head, and
replaced the manifold gaskets. Problem solved.
Since it ran really rich, you may also have plugged passages in the
throttle body and heavily carboned intake valves (rough running) and
piston tops (pinging). GM Top Engine cleaner will do a great job with
everything past the throttle body but you may want to drop the exhaust
before the catalytic converter so it doesn't get plugged up with soot.
The throttle body should be disassembled and cleaned but you should try
and find the factory procedure for doing this. Some designs use plastic
or rubber bushings and seals that will be damaged by soaking in
carburetor cleaning. The factory procedures will warn you of these
potential problem areas. Cleaning the throttle body is also something
that needs to be done routinely on non-TBI fuel injection systems. This
is usually something that needs done between 50,000 and 75,000 miles.
Here's a tip for o-rings (and other fun parts like grommets): Try
soaking them in hot water for a few minutes before installing them (do
not do this with A/C systems). They will usually soften up pretty well.
Matt
--
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
===============================================================
According to a February survey of Internet holdouts released by
UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online.
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 14:18:34 -0700
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Mobil Oil Economy Run
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000001c72933$6b308000$dcdc0d82@john1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I once read a driving technique that allowed you to get phenomenal
gasoline mileage for the purpose of winning economy runs that stuck with
me as many times useless trivia does.
Keep the right foot plastered onto the floor.
Leave the transmission (3 speed of course) in high.
Once the car was moving you simply depressed the clutch and turn off the
engine. Allowed it to slow as slow as you can go. At some point in time,
turn on the ignition and pop the clutch and allow it to accelerate to
some value as determined by need and turn off the ignition and depress
the clutch again.
Of course this would do nothing to make the trip fun, probably really
irk the other drivers on the freeway or side road or whatever and be
really hard on the clutch. But who cares! You got phenomenal fuel
mileage.
Of course the lack of doing that is probably the reason my Town and
Country gets 14 mpg under certain conditions which is almost as good as
the mileage it gets out of transmissions.
John.
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 13:42:15 -0800 (PST)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] AMC Ram Air Molding Repair
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <779947.60149.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
I have an extra Ram Air chrome molding (fits a 70 AMX
and Javelin) and I put it on Ebay this past week. It
brought about $58 at auction but I refunded the
buyer's money today because two of the mounting pin
tips are broken. The bases of these pins are in place
(about 3/8 of an inch long) but the tips are gone.
Has anyone repaired these? Could you weld/braze them
with a little jeweler's torch?
Regards,
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 18:51:46 -0700
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Re; AMC Ram Air Molding Repair
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000001c72959$917858c0$dcdc0d82@john1>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
While this may not be considered Cricket in some circles, when all of
the mounting tits on my OEM ram air molding deteriorated and broke off
leaving the pieces loose to fall on the ground or blow off in the wind
which both did, I retrieved them and glued them back on to the hood
using clear RTV with the idea that eventually I would buy replacement
pieces and fix it correctly.
Well it has been close to 8 years and I have not had a problem yet so
using the old adage, if it ain't broke don't fix it! I have not gotten
back to taking care of it correctly yet.
Maybe some day.
John.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 26 Dec 2006 21:14:09 -0600
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] fee-bay 15 cent listing wed 12-27
To: <baadassgremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <03e501c72965$229a9420$abf1b148@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Instead of regifting those NOS and used AMC parts, dump them on ebay Wed for
15 cents a listing, not bad deal. Some stuff that might cost you $3-$5 to
list is only 15 cents. Hope everyone had a good Christmas. Click on the link
here to find out more about the special; thanks to a few fellow aMC fans for
sending this my way.
http://pages.ebay.com/promo/holiday06/?ssPageName=CMDV:AB
Eddie Stakes'
Planet Houston AMX
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
Email is currently HEAVY
5-12 day reply times, call if important
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 03:11:04 -0500
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Mobil Economy Run - 1964
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <571-45922A98-15878@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
The procedures you guy's talked about in the 64 Mobile economy run
brought to mind somthing my father said many years ago. In 1947 him and
a friend bought a book on how to get 30 or 40 miles to the gallon. I
can't remember if it was 30 or 40 since this conversation with me him
and his friend and me was back in the early 60's.
"Doc"
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 27 Dec 2006 03:52:40 -0800
From: "William Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Parts WANTED!!!
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY105-F17FC78085E130BB13B9192C5C00@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
I am in need of a pair of headlight buckets for a 74-75 AMC Gremlin. I have
a pair of N.O.S. and they are true N.O.S. (still in there original bags!)
headlight buckets for I believe to be the 76 Gremlin. They have the larger
side marker light. I will trade anyone with anyone who may have the right
year that I am looking for, but they must have N.O.S. parts as well. I paid
out my #$$ for these off of FEEBAY, and I got the wrong year for my Gremmy.
:{ So, if anyone who maybe interested in these headlight buckets, please
email me and if pictures are needed I have them also. I will purchase a good
set used if I have to, but they have to be the right year and they must be
in really-really good shape. I am tired of cracked and busted up stuff and
trying to restore 30 + year old plastic......Lets just put it this way.....I
have glued my last piece of plastic and my fingers for the last time. I have
even checked with my local old AMC dealership that I get some N.O.S. parts
from, from time to time, and he cant find anything either. I know that what
I am looking for maybe out there somewheres or it may not be at all.
Thanks in advance!!
Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
As always....Keep on a Ramblin'!!
1973 Gremlin X "clone" (project)
1970 Original Hornet "plain jane"
------------------------------
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http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 11, Issue 58
****************************************
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 11:11:38 -0800 (PST)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20070101191139.84196.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Folks,
I am installing an AM radio in my 77 Gremlin (same
dash since the early 70s I think). The car apparently
never had a radio in it before although it is a
Gremlin X with PS and PB. There was no evidence of an
antenna ever being mounted on the fender and the
windshield has no antenna wire.
I need the dash speaker bracket. I will buy a new
speaker. I assume a standard 6 x 9 speaker will fit,
but would like someone also to confirm the resistance
of the factory speaker. 8? 16?
Any help will be appreciated. Happy New Year to all.
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 01 Jan 2007 14:18:02 -0600
From: Todd Tomason <jayscore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Exhaust Manifold Mystery
To: AMC List <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <200701011418.02228.jayscore@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
I ran into something the other day that surprised me. I have a set of exhaust
manifolds from a 78 Matador and also a set from a Grand Wagoneer (late 70's,
not sure of the year). I had always assumed that they were the same, but
they're not. The driver's side is the same, but the passenger side is
different. The manifolds from the Wagoneer extend down 2 or 3 inches lower
than the ones from the Matador. Both were V8's of course. The Matador has a
360 and the Grand Wagoneer had a 401.
Can anybody shed any light on this? Why would AMC have made two different
parts for the passenger side?
Todd
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2006 03:26:45 -0500
From: Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62kfzDskqC500000838@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
are all the light switches pretty much the same?. Seems I may have a
similar issue with the headlight switch of the 79 pacer I am working
on, you pull the light switch out and the lights come on but when you
turn the knob for the dash dinner, there seems to be dead spots where
as the light intensity is supposed to increase it goes dead then
reappears. If i play with the switch a bit the lights will increase and
stay on. wondered if there were contact in it, like a rehostat or
somehing to clean with tv tuner, wd 40 or something else, instead of
replacing the swtich, or maybe the contact for it needs to be adjusted?
thanks, regards, and HAPPY AMCNEW YEARS. Ken. boston.
On December 30, 2006 Keith Kubiak wrote:
> Kent,
> Thanks for the advice. I did pull the light switch out and cleaned
the contact point for the variable resistor with a burnishing tool.
That did help some (no more dead spots). The light for the center
console was nice and bright at full illumination, so I wsn't suspecting
the light switch since it is on the same circuit (through the light
switch). Actually, I am not really sure how bright these lights should
be. I know I wasn't a bright in the 60's, so I am guessing the dash
lights were a little dimmer than what we are used to today.
>
> Keith
> Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrument Bulbs
>
> Date: Saturday, December 30, 2006 12:57 PM
> From: KENT ANDERSON <65marlin327@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> When my Marlin popped fuses like candy, I discovered it was the light
switch
> that was shorting out. Ever since I replaced the switch, my dash
lights are
> nice and bright, and no more blown fuses, which means I always have
tail
> lights, now, too! Just a suggestion. Those things do wear out.
=============================================================
Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 20:12:12 -0500
From: "Jay" <jciampi@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 65 Marlin Instrum Bulbs/headlight swtich
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <001e01c72e0b$08ffd390$239b1ecf@Ciampi>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
You can clean the rheostat with TV tuner cleaner and that will help as long
as the wire of the rheostat isn't burned and causing the bad spot.
Jay
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 17:21:58 -0800
From: Adam Lazur <adam@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] central penn amx/amc club contact info?
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20070102012158.GW28769@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
New year's resolution: I'm going to get my dad's AMX back on the road
this year.
To that end, I'm hoping that someone can provide contact info for the
Central Penn AMX/AMC Club, aside from the mailing address that I've
found floating around the internet. In particular, I'm looking to find
a few members of the club who were friends of my dad's and who had
worked on his car in the past.
Thanks in advance :)
--
Adam Lazur
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 17:20:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] plastics repair
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0701011718190.1264@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
On Mon, 1 Jan 2007, Mark Price wrote:
> What I'm wondering is what is best to glue or weld the piece in with and if needed what filler to use to smooth things over. It's a white plastic and is not chalking or brittle, still flexes well for it's age.
If color and fine-texture match doesn't matter, what's wrong
with JB Weld or PC7 epoxies? I've had really good luck with
adhesion and strength. I fixed 2 - 3 Hornet dash gauge buckets
where they commonly split at the mounting screws, for instance. I
back them with thin sheet brass, everything roughed up with a
small very coarse file.
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 17:35:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 2007
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0701011723140.1264@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
On Sun, 31 Dec 2006, Mark Price wrote:
> What will this year bring?
> resolutions anyone?
> Here are some of mine.
I hope you get what you deserve -- all of your list!
The bike accident is scary, in that it could literally happen to
anyone, just a dumb ordinary bike wreck turning into such a mess.
> all the damage and it could be worse or better than expected. I
> could end up with a simple cleanup pf loose edges and be clear
> of problems a week or two after surgery or a repair could take
> 6 months to completely heal!
Umm, sounds like body work on your American you're talking about!
> That's why i'm sitting here at 2:55 am! I couldn't take the ultraset till both kids returned home after newyears parties.
Aww, such a good parent!
> The fun never ends.
I hope not! :-)
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2007 17:46:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Need Gremlin/Hornet dash speaker bracket
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0701011738480.1264@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
On Mon, 1 Jan 2007, JOE FULTON wrote:
> I am installing an AM radio in my 77 Gremlin (same
> dash since the early 70s I think).
>
> I need the dash speaker bracket. I will buy a new
> speaker. I assume a standard 6 x 9 speaker will fit,
> but would like someone also to confirm the resistance
> of the factory speaker. 8? 16?
The factory speaker is a hard to find size, like 4 x 9 or
something. I have a 6 x 9 in my 1970 hornet, but the big
magnet on modern speakers is too large to allow installing the
cardboard glovebox insert; luckily the glovebox is quite fine
without it. Once ain a while I find things like the steel tire
pressure gauge stuck up to it.
Unless 77 is a different radio that the earlier Hornet radios
(I doubt it) it wants 8 ohms. The problem today is it's hard
to find 8 ohm speakers! Because really good transistors are
now cheap and easy, 4 ohm and even 2 ohm speakers are common,
and 8 ohm hard to find.
On my truly old and delicate 63 Rambler radio, I soldered 3.9 ohm
resistor in series with a 4 ohm speaker. The old radio probably
wouldn't tolerate the bigger load on the final transistor.
(I could mail you the speaker bracket from the 73 Hornet if
you want it. The speaker however is trash)
------------------------------
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