AMC-List Digest, Vol 11, Issue 32

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: carb rebuidl help (Matt Haas)
   2. Rear end change 1966 Ambassador (Anthony)
   3. Re: AMC: LITERATURE: Lucky Lee Lott (Mark Price)
   4. Re: Rear end change 1966 Ambassador (Mark Price)
   5. Re: AMC Locks and Keys (JOE FULTON)
   6. Re: carb rebuidl help (Tom Jennings)
   7. Re: 1966 Classic hump mount 4spd (farna@xxxxxxx)
   8. Re; Carb rebuild help (John Elle)
   9. 1966 Classic hump mount 4spd (Dan & Carey Smith)
  10. Re: AMC-List Digest, Vol 11, Issue 30 (Jamie Smith)
  11. Javelins and the Trans Am Racing Series (Armand Eshleman)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 20:47:41 -0500
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] carb rebuidl help
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <4580AD3D.3020102@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Ken,

I would check the fuel pressure before you do anything else.

Matt

Ken Siroonian wrote:
> thanks tom and froank for your comments, i bought another carb kit and
> will give it another go. I thought I cleaned the last one very well,
> just can not figure why it overloads with gas. The fuel pump is the
> original with the car, and i did not know it could over pump in the
> carb. maybe I shoudl just change it. anyway, the float was new too and
> is buoyant and not absorbing fuel. the filter is new. you can not test
> the needle and seat with the carb with the top off as the needle seat
> and float are attached to the top with a small pin. the choke opens
> fine and even when I hold it fully open, the car runs like dog meat,
> and the the tpipe blows lots of black soot. I can even see some fuel
> that comes out the bottom of the carb. onto the base area.
> any more ideas please let me know, i will work on these, regards, ken.
> 
> On December 12, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:
> 
>> On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:
>>
>>> wondering if anyone has a tip on rebuidling a 1 BBL YF CARB FOR A
> 76
>>> PACER. I rebuilt it about 6 months ago due to engine flooding,
>>> overloading with fuel, black soot out of the exhaust, engine oil
> was
>>> getting black fast and oil level higher due to the fuel. I rebuilt
> it
>>> with a new float the black fiber float- just in case. the old one
> I
>>> tested was fine anyway. now it is doing the same thing, albeit it
> has
>>> not been driven more than a few hundred miles in all that time.
> she
>>> uses it rarely, and the choke is coming off ok, but it just won't
> run
>>> right with all that fuel and the belches of black soot/smoke. any
> ideas
>>> what I may or may not be doing right. are the adjustments that
>>> critical, I am following the amc spec book as well as the carb
> rebuild
>>> sheet, and the float level does not seem high or out of whack. I
> have
>>> not pulled the carb off the car yet, just the top. is there an
>>> adjustment I can make on the car and try again before i rebuild it. 
> the
>>> needle and seat looked ok, though I have only done these a few
> times. i
>>> adjusted the idle screw ok as well. does that affect more than just 
> the
>>> park idle. any ideas will be apreciated. regards.
>> Hmm... you have a stock fuel pump? Not an aftermarket or
>> electric pump?
>>
>> And a good clean new quality fuel filter, plumbed before
>> the carb?
>>
>> The choke is off or disconnected, for testing? Turn it 4 -
>> 6 or more notches LEAN, the choke plate should be open. It
>> would be unpleasant to drive it that way in cold weather,
>> but it will help for testing.
>>
>> As a test, with the choke fully open, your foot OFF the throttle,
>> cranking the engine, the carb should stay DRY. It probably
>> won't start, but the carb should NOT get wet inside. If it
>> does, you have somethin wrong in the carb, float stuck, sunk,
>> dirt in the needle and seat, etc.
>>
>>
>> Some crude but simple diagnostic tests:
>>
>> With car OFF! carb assembled and on car. Put clean hose on the
>> carb fuel inlet, blow into it. If the car was cranked previously,
>> the bowl should be full of gas and the needle and seat should
>> be CLOSED. You should NOT be able to blow into it. If you can,
>> or you hear even seeping of your breath into the carb, 3 -
>> 4 psi of fuel will definitely push in there, flooding it.
>>
>> You can even more crudely test the needle and seat by taking the
>> top off the carb, leaving the needle, set, float attached. Blow
>> into the fuel inlet; with the top right side up, air should
>> flow. Turn it upside down, it should stop. If it doesn't do that,
>> fix it.
> 
> 
> =============================================================
> Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
> 
> 
> 

-- 
mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
===============================================================
According to a February survey of Internet holdouts released by
UCLA's Center for Communication Policy, people cite
not having a computer as the No. 1 reason they won't go online.



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 20:48:59 -0500
From: "Anthony" <f1boats@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Rear end change 1966 Ambassador
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000a01c71f22$06f81820$6401a8c0@SERVER>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

I want to change the rear end to Ford 9 inch or something A.M.C. that can handle 650.HP Has anybody made this conversion in 1966 Ambassador DPL THANKS !

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 17:54:19 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] AMC: LITERATURE: Lucky Lee Lott
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <3130745.1166061259650.JavaMail.root@web37>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Sears had a good sale today on a 19.2 volt cordless drill/charger/battery for $39.99 and a $14.99 mini shop vac, also a set of 3 allen/torx wrench sets. I bought one of each! It seems my wife is buying them fro me for Christmas!!! She always grumbles about finding me gifts, so went and got them for her! :]
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> 
> If anyone needs a Christmas present for that hard-to-please AMC enthusiast 
> on your list, consider sending him or her  a book about a Rambler guy from 
> way back: "Lucky" Lee Lott.
> 
> 	http://half.ebay.com/cat/buy/prod.cgi?cpidEQ2898785AMPdomain_idEQ1856AMPmeta_idEQ1
> 
> If that link doesn't work, try:
> 
> 	http://tinyurl.com/48xrq
> 
> Interestingly, there is one website that says the book stretches the truth 
> a bit:
> 
> 	http://stuntdriver.com/achrives33.html
> 
> "23: Lucky Lee Lott, tried to make his book look like that it was all Lee's 
> stunts. If you will look close you will see where Lee marked out Lucky 
> Teter and wrote his name in. Lucky Neil Lott was greater than his brother Lee."
> 
> -- Marc Montoni
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 18:05:36 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Rear end change 1966 Ambassador
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Anthony <f1boats@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <5487423.1166061936219.JavaMail.root@web37>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

AMC 20 with one piece axles will do.
9" will do.
Suspension needs depend on the cars intended purpose.
Staright line and street use of 600 Horsepower and good 4 link setup would likely be best.
  For ease I'd next go to a truck arm type setup.
Lots of options.
  I would love to see what you end up doing! I have a 65 Ambassador convert in the works that may need a little converting!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Anthony <f1boats@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> I want to change the rear end to Ford 9 inch or something A.M.C. that can handle 650.HP Has anybody made this conversion in 1966 Ambassador DPL THANKS !
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 18:36:42 -0800 (PST)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] AMC Locks and Keys
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <640048.48633.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Doc said:
snip

The bottom line is if some one says it
can't be done or a part can't be found find some one
else.


Doc,
I gotta trust my local locksmith.  He is a fixture
here in Salinas.  He did know that the hatch lock was
also the same lock that Weatherguard used on the tool
boxes.  He looked up the code off of the lock, but
evidently the code sequence stamped on the lock was
wrong. He made three keys and none of them worked.  He
didn't want to disassemble the lock because the bezel
would be ruined in the process and he said the bezel
would cost $40 to replace.  I told him I had two other
locks at home and he said bring them in and he would
try them.  He did not charge me anything for the bad
keys of course.  

He is a good guy.  In the past he has loaned me his
two large boxes of AMC dealer keys for pre-1970 AMCs. 
Using these keys I was able to get keys for my 63
American, with just the cost of duplicating a key ($5
or so).  He knows what a Rambler is and when I told
him the latch lock was for a 77 Gremlin he just smiled
knowingly.  

I was able to find the new lock that I need, I think,
at Kennedy American, and if that doesn't work out,
I'll go back to the locksmith with the two extra locks
and let him try to key them or re-key them as the case
may be.

Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA    


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 18:45:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] carb rebuidl help
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0612131844530.22471@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII

On Wed, 13 Dec 2006, Matt Haas wrote:

> I would check the fuel pressure before you do anything else.

Yeah, that wouldn't hurt -- a perfect carb will do all those
bad thins if the fuel pressure si too high.

Bu tif it is a stock pump that's unlikely; the internal spring
determines pressure, and they get weaker with age, not stronger!


> 
> Matt
> 
> Ken Siroonian wrote:
> > thanks tom and froank for your comments, i bought another carb kit and
> > will give it another go. I thought I cleaned the last one very well,
> > just can not figure why it overloads with gas. The fuel pump is the
> > original with the car, and i did not know it could over pump in the
> > carb. maybe I shoudl just change it. anyway, the float was new too and
> > is buoyant and not absorbing fuel. the filter is new. you can not test
> > the needle and seat with the carb with the top off as the needle seat
> > and float are attached to the top with a small pin. the choke opens
> > fine and even when I hold it fully open, the car runs like dog meat,
> > and the the tpipe blows lots of black soot. I can even see some fuel
> > that comes out the bottom of the carb. onto the base area.
> > any more ideas please let me know, i will work on these, regards, ken.
> > 
> > On December 12, 2006 Tom Jennings wrote:
> > 
> >> On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Ken Siroonian wrote:
> >>
> >>> wondering if anyone has a tip on rebuidling a 1 BBL YF CARB FOR A
> > 76
> >>> PACER. I rebuilt it about 6 months ago due to engine flooding,
> >>> overloading with fuel, black soot out of the exhaust, engine oil
> > was
> >>> getting black fast and oil level higher due to the fuel. I rebuilt
> > it
> >>> with a new float the black fiber float- just in case. the old one
> > I
> >>> tested was fine anyway. now it is doing the same thing, albeit it
> > has
> >>> not been driven more than a few hundred miles in all that time.
> > she
> >>> uses it rarely, and the choke is coming off ok, but it just won't
> > run
> >>> right with all that fuel and the belches of black soot/smoke. any
> > ideas
> >>> what I may or may not be doing right. are the adjustments that
> >>> critical, I am following the amc spec book as well as the carb
> > rebuild
> >>> sheet, and the float level does not seem high or out of whack. I
> > have
> >>> not pulled the carb off the car yet, just the top. is there an
> >>> adjustment I can make on the car and try again before i rebuild it. 
> > the
> >>> needle and seat looked ok, though I have only done these a few
> > times. i
> >>> adjusted the idle screw ok as well. does that affect more than just 
> > the
> >>> park idle. any ideas will be apreciated. regards.
> >> Hmm... you have a stock fuel pump? Not an aftermarket or
> >> electric pump?
> >>
> >> And a good clean new quality fuel filter, plumbed before
> >> the carb?
> >>
> >> The choke is off or disconnected, for testing? Turn it 4 -
> >> 6 or more notches LEAN, the choke plate should be open. It
> >> would be unpleasant to drive it that way in cold weather,
> >> but it will help for testing.
> >>
> >> As a test, with the choke fully open, your foot OFF the throttle,
> >> cranking the engine, the carb should stay DRY. It probably
> >> won't start, but the carb should NOT get wet inside. If it
> >> does, you have somethin wrong in the carb, float stuck, sunk,
> >> dirt in the needle and seat, etc.
> >>
> >>
> >> Some crude but simple diagnostic tests:
> >>
> >> With car OFF! carb assembled and on car. Put clean hose on the
> >> carb fuel inlet, blow into it. If the car was cranked previously,
> >> the bowl should be full of gas and the needle and seat should
> >> be CLOSED. You should NOT be able to blow into it. If you can,
> >> or you hear even seeping of your breath into the carb, 3 -
> >> 4 psi of fuel will definitely push in there, flooding it.
> >>
> >> You can even more crudely test the needle and seat by taking the
> >> top off the carb, leaving the needle, set, float attached. Blow
> >> into the fuel inlet; with the top right side up, air should
> >> flow. Turn it upside down, it should stop. If it doesn't do that,
> >> fix it.
> > 
> > 
> > =============================================================
> > Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > AMC-List mailing list
> > AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> > 
> > or go to http://www.amc-list.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 


------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 03:24:32 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 1966 Classic hump mount 4spd
To: dan7@xxxxxxxxxx, mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<121420060324.16212.4580C3EF000BD83200003F5421587667550E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

I checked my 66 and 67 TSMs. The 66 four speed shifter is ONE YEAR ONLY. It is basically the same as the 63-65 Twin-Stick shifter, with the obvious modification of three shift levers instead of only two, and no OD lever. You can't modify a T-S shifter to shift five gears (4+R) without the extra parts. The 67 and later four speed shifter bolts to the transmission. The 290 and four speed were mid year intros on the American. I would assume it used the 67 style shifter, though the 66 style would fit and work. I don't have a 66 American TSM, just big cars. Since it was a mid year intro the four speed and shifter won't be in the TSM though.

Oh yeah, I forgot to add MARLIN to the list of cars that used the floor mount four speed shifter for 66. Any Marlin, Classic, or Ambassador with four speed will use the same shifter. All four speed cars used a console, the same console as used with auto floor shift cars. The auto shifter mounts on the floor in a metal "hump" just like the four speed shifter. This will be a hard to find item! I've occasionally seen a Twin-Stick shifter, but only a very few four speeds. The console with no shifter has the shifter hole under the overlay IIRC. 
You just need to change the overlay or cut the opening in the no shifter overlay. 
--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Good luck Dan, you're going to need it! As far as I recall 66 was the
> first year of the four speed, and the floor mounted shifter was only
> used in the 66 Classic and Ambassador, but may have been used in the
> American that year. I'll check my 67 TSM tonight, but I believe the 67
> and later cars had the tranny mount shifter like the 68 and later cars
> (mostly Javelin and AMX). 
> 
> Hurst used to make a three speed floor mount shifter made specifically
> for vans. I don't know if they ever made a four speed shifter like this.
> It's possible to use the three speed shifter. You have to put it in
> neutral then use an underdash cable (or some other means) for reverse.
> I've seen this done in a hot rod that needed a floor mount shifter -- a
> panel truck of some late 40s vintage I think. 
> 
> The three Twin-Stick three speed shifter would be another substitute,
> and probably easier to find. Use the three speed shifter for the four
> forward gears, OD in/out shifter for reverse. 
> 
> The Twin-Stick, four speed, and floor mounted auto shifter for 65-66 all
> used the same bolt on hump with different shifter mechanisms. That might
> help in locating a hump piece anyway. 
> 
> At least one member spotted a four speed 66 or so Rebel or Ambo in a
> junk yard. Maybe they will read this and see if they can score the
> shifter for you. 
> 
> -------------------------
> Date: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 12:27 PM
> From: Dan & Carey Smith <dan7@xxxxxxxxxx>
> 
> If anyone has any ideas on where to find a hump mounted 4spd shift
> assembly for 
> a 66 AMC.
> Please let me know
> I would be grateful for any help
> Either e-mail or phone me at 573-346-0088
> Thanks, Dan Smith




------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 20:43:55 -0700
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Re; Carb rebuild help
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000501c71f32$17cc7690$addc0d82@john1>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

 
Ken and all
I wonder if-----
For some mysterious reason the return fuel line has become
disconnected and thus not used. The fuel filter would then 
have a single tit on each side rather than a single input
tit and 2 output tits. 
If the fuel return line was not be used anymore than it would 
make sense that the carburetor would flood. Fuel pumps used 
with AMC cars with a fuel return line have a higher volume 
flow and are not designed to cavitate when the carburetor 
float shuts off the float chamber needle valve and has been
known to flood out the carburetor. 
 
 
Snip
I would check the fuel pressure before you do anything else.
 
Yeah, that wouldn't hurt -- a perfect carb will do all those
bad thins if the fuel pressure si too high.
 
But if it is a stock pump that's unlikely; the internal spring
determines pressure, and they get weaker with age, not stronger!
 
 
 
 Ken Siroonian wrote:
 thanks tom and froank for your comments, i bought another carb kit and
 will give it another go. I thought I cleaned the last one very well,
 just can not figure why it overloads with gas. The fuel pump is the
 original with the car, 
Snip
 
John


------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 22:19:59 -0600
From: "Dan & Carey Smith" <dan7@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 1966 Classic hump mount 4spd
To: <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, <Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>,
	<mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, 	"Eddie Stakes"
	<eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <004701c71f37$1f86aa90$86dd5540@danpsc>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hey guys,
Thanks for your input on my 66 Classic 
I know there aren't that many Classic 4 speeds around and thats one reason I want to keep it original
The shifter isn't all gone 
It has everything from the floor mount down
The upper section has some parts 
I just don't know what is missing since I haven't seen a breakdown of it yet
Still have hope I will find one somewhere
Thanks, Dan Smith
 


------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 21:15:36 -0800
From: "Jamie Smith" <oconner51@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] AMC-List Digest, Vol 11, Issue 30
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <BAY109-DAV2AA4776EE3E72A0F89E84BFD50@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"


>Date: Wed, 13 Dec 2006 08:25:24 -0600
>From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
><Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>>
>Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Thinking about Cruise Control
>To: <PIPER_PA20@xxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:PIPER_PA20@xxxxxxxxxxx>>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>>
>Message-ID:
><4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A313D40D@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:4CC05BF0CC3F114281434B00B733E2A313D40D@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii">

>I've run similar units way back when! The magnets are usually stick on,
>but should also have some light wire to go around them. Clean the
>driveshaft real good, and mount the pickup as close to the trans as
>possible so the magnets don't move much. The Audiovox units are pretty
>easy to install. There may be a tach signal you can connect instead of
>the magnets. The aftermarket box I run on my car now uses a tach signal.


The aftermarket unit on my truck has the magnets wired to the drive shaft. Also, last year I went to Goodwill and found a  complete after market kit still in the package for $15. (I bought it and plan on installing it on the American). It uses wire to hold the magnets. 

Jamie Smith
Spokane, WA.

------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2006 00:22:32 -0600
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Javelins and the Trans Am Racing Series
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <004301c71f48$3d748020$6601a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

I was surfing today and happened across this website. 
The old cars of the heyday just keep getting better.
And what better way to introduce your website than to place
a Penske Javelin on the home page.
There are dozens of photos of Javelins in this website.
One page I found showed the race results for the first 
race of the 1971 season............Donohue had a 5 lap margin 
of victory !!! The race was a wet race. He was truly an amazing racer.

Shortcut to: http://www.trans-amseries.com/homepage.htm


I really enjoyed browsing around in the site.

Armand



------------------------------

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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 11, Issue 32
****************************************