[BaadAssGremlins] Re: Power Brake Booster Answers Needed

["lumina333" <lumina333@xxxxxxxxx>]

This information does help, Doc. Thank you. I knew the disc master 
would not fit on the front of the drum booster because the flange 
widths were different. The tip about removing the check valve is 
noted. I still have not made my decision yet as to which system to 
use. I know I will have the disc front/drum rear, but may use a non-
AMC braking system as far at the booster/master goes. I don't believe 
the Javelins and Matadors systems will work as the boosters are 
completely different visually, and I don't know if there would be 
enough hood clearance if used on the Gremlin. Soooooooooo....it may 
be a good choice for me to use a different set up all together. I was 
hoping that someone on this list had done a non-AMC booster/master 
set up and could give dimensions or cross-reference a model that 
works. I can't believe that I would be the first person to attempt 
such a swap, but maybe *I* will be the one to figure it out and then 
share the knowledge. Thanks again for your response, Doc. I 
appreciate your time. ~Lu~
--- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AMC74HORNET@xxxx wrote:
> This is all from personal experience. The disc brake set up I got 
off a
> 79 Concord sedan. I had no choice on a booster because it had non-
power
> brakes. I drove this car before I parted it out and I didn't care 
for
> the pedal pressure required to stop it, but it did stop fine.   
Through
> the AMX Files and from Frank Swygert from AIM I gathered this
> information and used it on my yellow Hornet. A power brake master 
will
> not fit on a drum brake booster. The main difference between 
masters is
> that the disc master has a bigger reservoir for the front discs. 
This as
> Frank put it to me makes it idiot proof. As the disc pads wear the 
fluid
> level goes down. Not so on a drum brakes as they are adjusted
> mechanically. The larger reservoir is so that between service the 
disc
> master reservoir does not run out of fluid. The 79 Concord did not 
have
> a proportioning valve neither did the 78 Concord with power disc 
brakes.
> I used the stock 74 drum brake booster and master the was in the 
car. I
> simply installed the disc's from the Concord with rebuilt calipers 
and
> new pads and turned the rotors added new wheel bearings and seals 
and
> rubber brake lines. You will have to remove the residual check 
valve in
> the outlet port on a drum master for the front brakes or it will 
make
> the pads drag slightly. Insert a sheet metal screw into the port 
and pop
> out the flair flange and behind it is the check valve, remove it and
> re-install the flair flange. On the proportioning valve I don't 
know if
> you can use it on a drum brake booster/master. Since the Concord 
didn't
> have one I did not have one. I was told I really didn't need it. But
> being the pain I am I bought a Wilwood adjustable proportioning 
valve
> and plumbed into the system. I set the bias at 50/50 to start with 
and
> after making a couple of panic stops to see if I needed to change 
it, it
> was fine at 50/50 which tells me I really didn't need it. All the
> proportioning valve does is keep the rear wheels from locking up in 
a
> panic stop. I was also told and found it to be true that the drum
> booster is a single diaphragm and the disc is a duel diaphragm. The
> result being using disc's with a drum booster requires a little more
> pedal pressure, but not much. I can speak from experience on the
> comparison as the orange car has the factory disc's. One thing on 
using
> a drum master you should check the fluid level every 3 months or so.
> This is my personal experience with the disc brake swap and I am 
happy
> with the way the car now stops. Where I live there is a lot of 
hills and
> the old drum set up used to fade real bad when it got hot. 
Sometimes it
> was so bad I was afraid the car would not stop. I hope this helps.
> "Doc"





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