Also the brake pedal itself is different between the manual drum and power drum booster. Some body has got to have a parts car with the parts you need. Re-engineering a non AMC booster and master is going to be quite a job. I think the "Mix" has a rusty Hornet he is going to part out and so does Davis, maybe you can get a core booster from them. "Doc" ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research Hospital's 'Thanks & Giving.' http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/YtqqlB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BaadAssGremlins/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: BaadAssGremlins-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- Begin Message ---
- From: "lumina333" <lumina333@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 14:45:32 -0000
This information does help, Doc. Thank you. I knew the disc master
would not fit on the front of the drum booster because the flange
widths were different. The tip about removing the check valve is
noted. I still have not made my decision yet as to which system to
use. I know I will have the disc front/drum rear, but may use a non-
AMC braking system as far at the booster/master goes. I don't believe
the Javelins and Matadors systems will work as the boosters are
completely different visually, and I don't know if there would be
enough hood clearance if used on the Gremlin. Soooooooooo....it may
be a good choice for me to use a different set up all together. I was
hoping that someone on this list had done a non-AMC booster/master
set up and could give dimensions or cross-reference a model that
works. I can't believe that I would be the first person to attempt
such a swap, but maybe *I* will be the one to figure it out and then
share the knowledge. Thanks again for your response, Doc. I
appreciate your time. ~Lu~
--- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AMC74HORNET@xxxx wrote:
> This is all from personal experience. The disc brake set up I got
off a
> 79 Concord sedan. I had no choice on a booster because it had non-
power
> brakes. I drove this car before I parted it out and I didn't care
for
> the pedal pressure required to stop it, but it did stop fine.
Through
> the AMX Files and from Frank Swygert from AIM I gathered this
> information and used it on my yellow Hornet. A power brake master
will
> not fit on a drum brake booster. The main difference between
masters is
> that the disc master has a bigger reservoir for the front discs.
This as
> Frank put it to me makes it idiot proof. As the disc pads wear the
fluid
> level goes down. Not so on a drum brakes as they are adjusted
> mechanically. The larger reservoir is so that between service the
disc
> master reservoir does not run out of fluid. The 79 Concord did not
have
> a proportioning valve neither did the 78 Concord with power disc
brakes.
> I used the stock 74 drum brake booster and master the was in the
car. I
> simply installed the disc's from the Concord with rebuilt calipers
and
> new pads and turned the rotors added new wheel bearings and seals
and
> rubber brake lines. You will have to remove the residual check
valve in
> the outlet port on a drum master for the front brakes or it will
make
> the pads drag slightly. Insert a sheet metal screw into the port
and pop
> out the flair flange and behind it is the check valve, remove it and
> re-install the flair flange. On the proportioning valve I don't
know if
> you can use it on a drum brake booster/master. Since the Concord
didn't
> have one I did not have one. I was told I really didn't need it. But
> being the pain I am I bought a Wilwood adjustable proportioning
valve
> and plumbed into the system. I set the bias at 50/50 to start with
and
> after making a couple of panic stops to see if I needed to change
it, it
> was fine at 50/50 which tells me I really didn't need it. All the
> proportioning valve does is keep the rear wheels from locking up in
a
> panic stop. I was also told and found it to be true that the drum
> booster is a single diaphragm and the disc is a duel diaphragm. The
> result being using disc's with a drum booster requires a little more
> pedal pressure, but not much. I can speak from experience on the
> comparison as the orange car has the factory disc's. One thing on
using
> a drum master you should check the fluid level every 3 months or so.
> This is my personal experience with the disc brake swap and I am
happy
> with the way the car now stops. Where I live there is a lot of
hills and
> the old drum set up used to fade real bad when it got hot.
Sometimes it
> was so bad I was afraid the car would not stop. I hope this helps.
> "Doc"
--- End Message ---