Re: [BaadAssGremlins] Re: Power Brake Booster Answers Needed

[AMC74HORNET@xxxxxxxxx]

This is all from personal experience. The disc brake set up I got off a
79 Concord sedan. I had no choice on a booster because it had non-power
brakes. I drove this car before I parted it out and I didn't care for
the pedal pressure required to stop it, but it did stop fine.   Through
the AMX Files and from Frank Swygert from AIM I gathered this
information and used it on my yellow Hornet. A power brake master will
not fit on a drum brake booster. The main difference between masters is
that the disc master has a bigger reservoir for the front discs. This as
Frank put it to me makes it idiot proof. As the disc pads wear the fluid
level goes down. Not so on a drum brakes as they are adjusted
mechanically. The larger reservoir is so that between service the disc
master reservoir does not run out of fluid. The 79 Concord did not have
a proportioning valve neither did the 78 Concord with power disc brakes.
I used the stock 74 drum brake booster and master the was in the car. I
simply installed the disc's from the Concord with rebuilt calipers and
new pads and turned the rotors added new wheel bearings and seals and
rubber brake lines. You will have to remove the residual check valve in
the outlet port on a drum master for the front brakes or it will make
the pads drag slightly. Insert a sheet metal screw into the port and pop
out the flair flange and behind it is the check valve, remove it and
re-install the flair flange. On the proportioning valve I don't know if
you can use it on a drum brake booster/master. Since the Concord didn't
have one I did not have one. I was told I really didn't need it. But
being the pain I am I bought a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve
and plumbed into the system. I set the bias at 50/50 to start with and
after making a couple of panic stops to see if I needed to change it, it
was fine at 50/50 which tells me I really didn't need it. All the
proportioning valve does is keep the rear wheels from locking up in a
panic stop. I was also told and found it to be true that the drum
booster is a single diaphragm and the disc is a duel diaphragm. The
result being using disc's with a drum booster requires a little more
pedal pressure, but not much. I can speak from experience on the
comparison as the orange car has the factory disc's. One thing on using
a drum master you should check the fluid level every 3 months or so.
This is my personal experience with the disc brake swap and I am happy
with the way the car now stops. Where I live there is a lot of hills and
the old drum set up used to fade real bad when it got hot. Sometimes it
was so bad I was afraid the car would not stop. I hope this helps.
"Doc"



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--- Begin Message ---

• From: "lumina333" <lumina333@xxxxxxxxx>
• Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 04:31:49 -0000

Doc,
You are a sweetheart! Don't put yourself out if you are not feeling
up to it. I know how these winters can be on folks - my Dad just got
out of the hospital again today (dam Pneumonia never quite went
away). I hope he is ahead of it by now. Two hospital stays in as
many months is taking its toll on him. I was just frustrated this
afternoon when I did that post, hoping someone on this list has the
knowledge or can pass me along to someone who does. This is such a
dependable group. Take care, Doc. I wish you better days and look
forward to your response. ~Lu~

--- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AMC74HORNET@xxxx wrote:
> Lu,  early tomorrow I will assist you in the disc brake problem.
Since I
> did it to to my yellow car last summer. It will be the straight
skinny
> from a driven car and I had it out for a drive today too. I am
just to
> tired to go into the details now. I researched the options from
people
> that did it before for a few year before I did it.  Arthritis is
killing
> me and a snow storm is coming tonight.
> "Doc"





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