Re: [AMC-list] my new baby
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Re: [AMC-list] my new baby
- From: linda sufficool <greenhornetlady@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 21:22:59 -0800 (PST)
Just thought I would share a picture of my car coming home. It was interesting seeing all those expensive cars... and then there is my Hornet.. Gotta love it!
--- On Thu, 2/4/10, amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx <amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx <amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: AMC-list Digest, Vol 11, Issue 13
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Thursday, February 4, 2010, 7:30 PM
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Today's Topics:
1. Valve cover switch? (Richard Estermyer)
2. 68 ambassador/craigslist & 71 hornet low fuel warning
(Eddie Stakes)
3. Lower shock mounts for Ambo needed (Rocky Lear)
4. replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET and plug)
(tom jennings)
5. Car show in Greenville SC (Bruce Hevner)
6. Re: replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET and plug)
(Joe Fulton)
7. Re: replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET and plug)
(Joe Fulton)
8. AND ANOTHER THING 195.6 OHV cylinder head cooling problem
(tom jennings)
9. Re: Low fuel warning light (Jim Blair)
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 21:21:50 -0500
From: Richard Estermyer <javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: amc mail <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-list] Valve cover switch?
Message-ID: <BAY144-W799CB24AE1229925C1C0DDD540@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Can anyone tell me IF the 258 valve cover w/2nuts on top that hold it down can be changed to the set up with the bolts around the edge, instead?
The rebuild on the 82 Concord Wagon has the 2 studs on top and it is leaking already. Sure would like to go to the other set up and thought I would ask before taking it apart to find out. THANKS!
Blessings,
Richard
Richard Estermyer
AMO Nationals -
American Dream 2010, Detroit August 12th-14th.
javelinman74@xxxxxxxxxxx
www.a70sthingautomobilia.com
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 20:25:53 -0600
From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <baadassGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-list] 68 ambassador/craigslist & 71 hornet low fuel
warning
Message-ID: <511414F71D724FE58505564B25E236A0@piageedc1iqa5q>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Someone posted about a 68 Ambassador on craigslist site, sure is a rather nice looking
car, the link sent earlier was dead, this is correct link of the Hialeah Yellow Ambassador
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/1586408888.html
on the Low Fuel Warning light flashing all the time, it sounds like the regulator went
south.
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/amc_low_fuel_sending_unit.jpg
A suggestion would be to disable it altogether. These pop up on ebay from time to time and
really easy to change out, only one screw holds them to dash.
This ia a Low Fuel file off my site:
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/amc_low_fuel_warning_system.htm
Something else it could be is that the sending unit in tank has gone bad making the low
fuel believe it is down to 2 gallons and continuous flash. But my guess would be the unit
above is probably gone bad. I would find another, replace it and see if it cures problem
first. Good luck!
From: linda sufficool <greenhornetlady@xxxxxxxxx>
i was wondering if anyone knows how to fix the low fuel light on my 71 Hornet
Sportabout. It flashes all the time. Full tank or not, it is always flashing. Is there any
way to fix it without just disabling it? Also, the gas guage is either buried on one side
or the other... over the full mark or under the empty... with occasional stops in between
as it slowly goes back and forth. Any ideas? Thanks, Linda
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 21:54:10 -0500
From: "Rocky Lear" <lear31@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans." <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-list] Lower shock mounts for Ambo needed
Message-ID: <494819B170EE46D19DAE72DED86D9475@madmax1984PC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I need a pair of lower shock mounts for the back of my 71 Hornet. I have a set of brand new air shocks. Only problem is they have studs on the top but bolt throughs at the bottom. Hornets of course have studs top and bottom. I bought them for a 73 Ambo originally that is gone now. If I swap the plates out, can I use them?
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 18:56:17 -0800
From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
To: "AMC, Rambler, Nash, Jeep and family" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-list] replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET and
plug)
Message-ID:
<c81e13651002041856o4500c6a4se77e6c87296bf424@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
The oil drain plug system on my oil pan is all banged up and I want to weld
in a new replacement female threaded piece AND plug. Can't find such a
thing. Thought it would be common! The 195.6 OHC uses a large dia. plug that
takes a 1" wrench, would be nice to get something smaller.
I guess I could just cut and tap my own.
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 21:56:51 -0500
From: "Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-list] Car show in Greenville SC
Message-ID: <004d01caa60e$de67ad90$9b3708b0$@charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Heck that's only 30 minutes from me!!! (Anderson)
Let me know if ya-all want to know anything about the area. Lake Hartwell is
full, and ready for recreation!!
Bruce Hevner
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 19:10:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Rambler Nash Jeep and familyAMC <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-list] replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET
and plug)
Message-ID: <892366.96161.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
You might want to go to one of your favorite junkyards and look for another 195.6, just for the oil pan. You have the advantage of those nearby picknpull and pickurpart yards. I know the old cars are getting scarce but you could always try.
Joe Fulton
--- On Thu, 2/4/10, tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [AMC-list] replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET and plug)
> To: "AMC, Rambler, Nash, Jeep and family" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Thursday, February 4, 2010, 6:56 PM
> The oil drain plug system on my oil
> pan is all banged up and I want to weld
> in a new replacement female threaded piece AND plug. Can't
> find such a
> thing. Thought it would be common! The 195.6 OHC uses a
> large dia. plug that
> takes a 1" wrench, would be nice to get something smaller.
>
> I guess I could just cut and tap my own.
> -------------- next part --------------
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> _______________________________________________
> AMC-list mailing list
> AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com
>
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 19:19:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Rambler Nash Jeep and familyAMC <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-list] replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET
and plug)
Message-ID: <401279.58122.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Tom,
Here's an article showing the type of repair I think you want to do. These guys may not sell you the part (fitting and bung) but you could call Moroso or some other fabricator and see if you could get the part.
http://www.artsautomotive.com/fabrication-articles/48-fabrication-faq/82-welding-oil-pans
Joe Fulton
--- On Thu, 2/4/10, tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [AMC-list] replacement engine oil drain plug kits (SOCKET and plug)
> To: "AMC, Rambler, Nash, Jeep and family" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Thursday, February 4, 2010, 6:56 PM
> The oil drain plug system on my oil
> pan is all banged up and I want to weld
> in a new replacement female threaded piece AND plug. Can't
> find such a
> thing. Thought it would be common! The 195.6 OHC uses a
> large dia. plug that
> takes a 1" wrench, would be nice to get something smaller.
>
> I guess I could just cut and tap my own.
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL: <http://list.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list-amc-list.com/attachments/20100204/c4406afd/attachment.htm>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-list mailing list
> AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com
>
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 19:21:22 -0800
From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
To: "AMC, Rambler, Nash, Jeep and family" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-list] AND ANOTHER THING 195.6 OHV cylinder head cooling
problem
Message-ID:
<c81e13651002041921v6e8fd15csd73d25c9a14bcab9@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
OK, I just figured out ANOTHER thing, it's bad, easily fixed and yet another
source of heat stress.
To understand this you'll have to look at a head, or a TSM drawing of one.
I'll make a web page about this whole debacle eventually.
The thermostat is housed in the head, but in a snout that sticks out from #1
cyl 5" or more, sort of "on it's way" to the radiator. The thermostat sits
in in a well, the neck goes up to the hose and radiator.
The problem is, as the head heats up, there is NO WAY FOR HEAT/HOT WATER TO
GET TO THE THERMOSTAT. THe water pump design is too simple. Unlike the 232,
which (1) circulates head water (I think) and (2) has the thermostat coupled
thermally to the #1 cylinder, the 195.6 OHV has zero water flow around the
thermostat when it is closed. None.
This confounded me a number of times when I re-filled the system after
working on it. I fill it then idle the engine with the radiator cap on. I
have a thermostat with a 1/8" hole so air purges OK. What happens is, the
head gets HOT, but the front casting w/thermostat in it stays cold;
eventually casual turbulence wafts some heat over there, it opens and runs
normally.
After initial fill up, the head gets hot enough to boil and I can hear the
"water hammer" of steam bubbles, so I've learned to warm the car up til the
head is just too hot to touch, then turn it off and wait til the thermostat
neck is hot. THen I restart and from then on it seems OK.
But it's clearly a terrible design. There's simply no way for the thermostat
to detect head coolant temp without it being open; once warmed up in never
fully closes (maybe in very cold weather...)
My proposed solution is to drill a 3/16" - 1/4" hole in the thermostat and
put the hole towards the front of the car, so that there is always SOME
water flowing, and it will do so over the temperature button on the bottom
of the thermo. It will at the least make the engine warm up slower, but it
warms up in two blocks, so that hardly matters. It might causer a problem if
the temperature is REALLY COLD (Minnesota, etc), but hey, cardboard the
radiator for that.
I'm gonna drill the HEAD for a temp sensor, probably up near #2 cyl if I
can. THe sensor is in that stupid thermo casting.
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2010 19:30:52 -0800
From: Jim Blair <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-list] Low fuel warning light
Message-ID: <SNT117-W1C09C152AA45075995039AC540@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
It's doing that because the voltage regulator built into the dash is bad (It's built into the temp gauge) or the fuel tank sending unit is going bad. If the temp always reads normal, then it's probably the sender wire is broken and shorting out
From: linda sufficool <greenhornetlady@xxxxxxxxx>
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-list] Low fuel warning light
Message-ID: <250479.21865.qm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
?I was wondering if anyone knows how to fix the low fuel light on my 71 Hornet Sportabout. It flashes all the time. Full tank or not, it is always flashing. Is there any way to fix it without just disabling it? Also, the gas guage is either buried on one side or the other... over the full mark or under the empty... with occasional stops in between as it slowly goes back and forth. Any ideas? Thanks, Linda
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