Re: [Amc-list] And he was a goober-tronic! (pushrod wasn't quite pushing)

[Bruce Griffis <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>]

I'm hoping I don't need to rebuild the head again. I had it rebuilt,
used bad stuff for the gaskets, it steamed a bunch - I figured I'd give
up and take it in to a garage. Today was a warm day, so I figured I
might as well have a look at it. If I can't figure it out, then it's off
to a garage.

Yep - we discussed that junk a month or so six weeks ago. I parked it
and let it sit a month or six weeks. Got frustrated.

Anyway - I'm not sure what would cause stuck valves on a freshly rebuilt
cylinder head. It was surfaced, cleaned, new valves, new seats or seals
or whatever. To the tune of some 400 bucks or more (don't have the check
register with me). Think the springs were replaced, not sure. Anyway,
the head is off and looks good.

The rocker arm assembly is a little sticky, though. Hmmmm.

Frank Swygert wrote:
> Uh, didn't we have the discussion about using that stuff a month or two ago? No surprise that it didn't work. 
> 
> The bent pushrod is worrisome. That's a classic sign that the valves are getting sticky! You might want to drop it off at a machine shop and have them rebuild the head. If nothing else, you need to remove the valves and clean them, replacing the valve stem seals in the process. You need a valve spring compressor, either one that "reaches around" the head or that grips the spring and screws down on top of it, not one of the lever types (they only work with stud rockers, not shaft). It will probably be easier just to let a shop rebuild the head -- they will grind the seats and valves if necessary too. Usually around $150-$200, but that includes new valve stem seals. 
> 
> When an engine sits for a while (as little as 4-5 months!) the gas and oil vapors that were inside condense on the metal surfaces. Not a big deal, except on the valve stems. The valves start sticking in the guides, resulting in bent pushrods. This newer fuel is worse about this than fuel from 10 years ago. You might get by with running some engine flush through it, but since the head is off already and you intend to keep the car, you may as well get the head rebuilt. 
> 
> If you decide to just put it back on and run it, do run engine flush through it. You need to change the oil since it got water in it anyway, won't hurt to run the flush in the oil that's there now -- you don't want to drive the car with the engine flush (or water!) in the oil anyway. With no load on the engine the small amount of water that got in shouldn't hurt a thing. Flush it this time (follow directions on flush container), then flush it the next couple times you change oil too. That should at least stave off another stuck pushrod. 
> 
> By the way, you can change the pushrods one at a time, no need for a set -- unless you stick the head on and run it without rebuilding. Then you might need more later. 
> 


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