Re: [Amc-list] Before and After engine compartment

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Tom,
   my flare tool is a Rigid model, cost like $90-100.
Works good and way better then the elcheapos!

I can get a part number if you want.
I've had a hankering for the $300 one myself, but ain't no way I can justify it!



--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
>  > The second looks a lot better, but it's
> > leaking (maybe thread sealant would fix it).
> 
> Sad to say, the threads are not involved in the seal. The nut only 
> presses the flare against the matching "cone" in the female part.
> 
> If you're using one of those inexpensive flarin tools (I do) that is two 
> bars with wingnut clamps, you need to spend a lot of very careful time 
> gettin everything PERFECTLY square. What I do is, gently clamp the line 
> so it stays in place, but not tighten. THEN clamp the two bars exactly 
> parallel with C-clamps. THEN eyeball it carefully to make sure the end 
> of the tubing is EXACTLY square with the bars, and check 90 degrees 
> apart. Only then tighten the crap out of it. (Mine bows slightly right 
> where the tubing is; I use another C-clamp to press the two bars 
> together better. THEN when you put the flare tool on, that straddles the 
> two bars. Note that if the bars were not made exactly parallel, the cone 
> on the flare will be cocked and make a cocked flare.
> 
> Practice and experience does help, but it is a very frustrating too. 
> ANother option is to get a pre-flared line that's too long, and 
> carefully make loops to take up the slack.
> 
> I've searched, and found no tool between ther $30 piece of crap and the 
> $300 real tools that do everything. I just want to flare brake line!
> 
> > Another gotcha is we put the carb together wrong, and the fast idle
> > screw doesn't touch the cam plate. Gotta pull the carb and put the
> > plate on correctly - right now it idles wide open (yikes!). The fast
> > idle screw doesn't touch the plate at all.
> 
> (That's usually how everyone learns that sort of thing. Chances are you 
> won't do it again :-)
> 
> Good luck for a Saturday cruise!!!
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