Re: [Amc-list] 1967 232 six with 122K miles- grade of oil?

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

Bruce Griffis wrote:
> But that valve job might not be cheap. I'm looking at appr. $470 to
> mill the head, do a valve job and install hardened seats. I need to
> pick up 6 intake and 1 exhaust valve as well. Probably be about $650
> or so.

I had a "freshen" done with used valves for under $300 in head work at a 
local shop. I stripped the head but left the valves in when I gave it to 
them. I removed the one broken stud (water neck) myself. Magnaflux, boil 
out, reface valves, new guides, reface seats. They have a big head 
surface sander, not a mill. Stock angle job. I wasn't happy with the 
resulting valve stem heights (varied about 1/8" end to end across all 
12) but no lifter ticks... it's a decent enough inexpensive shop but I 
would not have them do anything for a performance motor other than 
tanking and such. I gave them a second set of used valves to pick a good 
set from.

This was a "freshen" job on a motor that's got over 200K on it. I think 
it was the appropriate level of work for a motor whose next step will be 
a full top to bottom teardown. Last full rebuild was 1988.


> I'm guessing a valve job by itself would be a lot cheaper, and I'm not
> complaining. Just saying it can add up quickly if the head got warped.

Oh yeah, I had all good parts, that helps a lot! And the 195.6 has 
expensive parts.


> Hey, can I go synthetic now? Or since I haven't changed the main seal
> and the oil pan seal, should I still stick to dino oil?

I think the story, the fear is, the goop and gunk lining the inside of 
the block, valve cover etc comes loose with a change in chemistry. I 
have no idea if that is true. You hear these stories all the time... 
"all I did was change the oil and..." but upon further probing you get 
"well I did change the cam but that's not it" or whatever.

I admit I have not tempted fate. My 232 (above rebuild) has had Mobil1 
or equiv. for most of that 20 years, and I probably changed it too 
often. The rings have little wear, no cylinder scoring AT ALL (hone 
marks long gone though), a ridge of a few thousandths (just catch your 
nail on it) and the valve train was spotless. Valve faces hammered grey 
and recessed, no deposits. OK the LPG fuel helped. I now run the Mobil1 
extended service oil and change it at 10K miles.

The American's 195.6OHV is old, with a new head, but I run high-mileage 
10W-30 and change THAT at precisely 3000 since there's no real oil filter.


I don't care if it's "cost effective" it's my damn hand-built motor(s) 
and I want them to last! Good oil is still cheaper than rebuilding motors.

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