Re: [Amc-list] It's scrubbing, sanding, (and the trunk has flow-through ventilation)

[farna@xxxxxxx]

Which reminds me -- STRUCTURAL repairs should be welded or use screws and rivets in metal along with epoxy. I believe two part epoxy is stronger than urethane panel bonding adhesive, though that stuff is pretty darned strong! Still, either needs some sort of mechanical fastening as well if there is any body stress. I'd only make stressed repairs like this in small areas though, where there is still plenty metal holding things together and you're just stiffening it up. This kind of repair really needs welding though. 

Sometimes you just can't get to areas with a welder, or simply don't have the skill or tools. While not preferred or considered "right", a combination of epoxy, screws/rivets, and fiberglass can work. If the goal is a true restoration you don't want to go that route, but to keep a good driver going it works. 

------------------
Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2008 19:59:54 -0400
From: Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>

Rust is always worse than it looks. I don't think you can use panel 
bonding adhesive to bond the trunk floor to the rear frame sills or to 
any cross members. I may be wrong on that but you should make sure 
before you use it since the floor pans are structural parts of the car. 
You'll also need to roll beads into the patch panels (match the factory 
pattern) so they stay stiff.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

_______________________________________________
Amc-list mailing list
Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list