Re: [Amc-list] Torqueing head - bar torque wrench okay?

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

You got the procedure down pat! Back off each bolt in sequence just enough to crack it lose then tighten it back to spec (this is a re-torque job, all bolts are torqued down to begin with). 

I wouldn't be surprised if a beam type wrench was used to put the head on with at the factory back in 62! It's fine. Beams don't get out of calibration like clickers and dial types can. If it bends just a little you can either bend the indicator rod to make it correct or just add the 3 ft/lbs (or whatever) to your final torque. The specs give a range for a reason -- it's hard to hold a steady torque with a beam or dial type wrench, which is all they had back then. Aim for the center of the range and if you're slightly over leave it alone. 


---------------
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:58:57 -0400
From: "Bruce Griffis" <bruce.griffis@xxxxxxxxx>

With the water pump and harmonic balancer done, I want to take a
little time and torque the head. I have the TSM and the sequence and
the specs. I think it shouldn't be that bad - and I figure I should
torque it before installing the valve cover gasket anyway.

So - bring it up to running temp (if I read right)
Follow the sequence in the TSM
   (anyone have it in PDF so I could print it and put a copy on the
fender? If not, I'll just copy
    from the TSM)
Torque to specs in the TSM

Question is - are bar torque wrenches accurate enough? Mine is a
little, ahem, old (a Craftsman from when I messed with a Karmann Ghia
about 25 years ago). Are dial torque wrenches more accurate?

Also, when torqueing - you back off the bolt a little bit first, then
torque it, right?

-- 
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Motors Cars" 
Magazine (AMC)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AMC.html
(free download available!)

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