Re: [AMC-List] mustang suspension

[Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

OK, I can't find the link, But I found a Co. That builds strut rods and suspension pieces, I want to see about haveing them build a strut rod that has the 65 Ambassador front and the late model rear with extra length and threading for full adjustmentability. That is ideally what we need for these cars.
   Going to poly or rod endsin a street car makes for increased NVH and ride quality suffers. The mustangs of the same era can get by with stiffer stuff for one reason. the actually frame end of the the strut is clear at the front of the car. On our cars it is right under our feet! 
   Some people don't care. I don't expect a cadillac ride from my American, if I did I would not have used Poly bushings and V-8 springs! I did stay with rubber strut bushings. By doing so I get a fairly decent ride even with poly and the V8 springs. I don't want this stuff in the Ambassador.
   I sit here now wondering if one could build a generic strut rod for these. You could use a rod end on the lower control arm end and a late model bushing setup on the floor end. Would the control arm take this though? Going to a single rod end on the control arm would remove the strut rods ability to hold the control arm flat and then it would be able to twist. Going from two bolts to one would also stress the hole used more than using two holes. You could use a plate sandwich the control arm to help that.
   I've seen several pics now of MII conversions in Americans, I'm not impressed that the really do anything worthwhile! If I was going to do a conversion, I'd go with a 84-89 Vette frt. It appears to be a better match for the weight of the larger cars, track width is almost right on the money, Boneyard costs are real comparable too.
   While I'm one here I noticed that there is also 304 Flywheel up on Ebay if you are looking for one.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> ok, im not sure where the mustang 2 suspension came in at. if anyone has the issue of car craft, with the red lookin i think it was a chevelle on it, they did an upgrade on their mustangs suspension. it has tubular upper a arms, tubular lower arm, not a arm, adjustable strut rod, and ball joints upper and lower. 
>    
>   my thing is not with the trunion. mine are still serviceable. my bushings are going bad. it sat in a field for 20 years or so. and then i started drivin it and have in the last 6 years put about 6000 miles on it. i have seen that at espo i think it was i can get bushings. the strut bushing tho i have been told is the weird one for my 62 big body car. something about they are to small or something. dont really understand how it was described to me before. anyway that it wont work the way it was bought. i got that tubular triangulated rear suspension to put in it. i was liking how the tubular suspension for the stock mustang looked. keeps the factory high spring. no need to cut spring towers or nothing. i just wanted to know if anyone knew if the length of the mustang arms are anywhere near the same as the rambler and if where the lower and upper mounts are, the spindle would still sit true to the road surface. if i confused anyone i didnt mean to. i know i can just pull my
>  stock stuff apart and repaint it and get most of the bushings. the strut arm tho is what i have been told is the pain in the rear. i guess if no one understands exactly what im talkin about i will just have to wing it and find out... 
>    
>   frank by the way, i got a mustang 2 disk brake kit. the hubs do NOT NOT NOT fit my spindles. the bearings suplied are different size, my bearings for my stock hub dont fit the m2 hub, and the spindle would need to be extended out about 1.5" to keep from rubbin on the trunion. it is an 11" rotor. i could make it fit maybe by finding bearings that might fitby trial and erorr. and use some kind of braket maybe to space out the spindle. but then strength factor would come in to play. i didnt feel like playin that route. not sure how else an m2 rotor is suposed to fit. i like the idea of using the factory hub and putting a hat over it. that might work.... 
>    
>   dave stohler
>   (confused today)
> 
>  
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