AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 3
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 10, Issue 3
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- Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 20:08:54 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. 68 AMX For Sale, Pullman WA, $6500 (Archimedes)
2. 78 AMC Matador 4dr For Sale, Weare NH - $1450 (Archimedes)
3. 74 Javelin For Sale, Harrisburg PA - $1900 (Archimedes)
4. 63 Ramb classic sighting on Fox tv. (Ken Siroonian)
5. AMC shows or anythign going on- atlanta, roanoke and north
(Ken Siroonian)
6. Re: Power Steering (Mark Price)
7. Power Steering (Don Johnson)
8. Re: Mustang front end (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
9. 64 American/72 Hornet morphed (russ hathaway)
10. mustang front ends (russ hathaway)
11. big ugly (russ hathaway)
12. big ugly (russ hathaway)
13. mustang suspension (d stohler)
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 08:18:21 -0500
From: Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 68 AMX For Sale, Pullman WA, $6500
To: (Recipient list suppressed)
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.1.20061031081549.02215768@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Please don't hit reply; it's not mine -- I'm just passing it along.
****************************************************
Date: 2006-10-28, 4:46PM PDT
Very Rare 4spd Muscle Car!!! 1968 AMX - $6500 (Pullman WA)
Specs:
Year: 1968
Make: AMC
Model: AMX (American Motors Experimental)
Trans: 4 speed manual
Engine: AMC 401
This is one of a few remaining AMX's left. The car came from califonia and
is virtually rust free with the exception of a small rust spot in the
passenger wheel well lip. The motor was extremely strong when it was parked
and was supposed to have a lot of money put into it. The car drove great
right up until I started tearing it apart about 4 years ago. Unfortunately
I ran out of time and money and I regretfully have to sell. There is a ton
of information that I can share about this car, the history of AMX's and
help with sourcing parts. Please feel free to send me an email or give me a
call at 509.432.6681. I am asking $6500 obo or possible trade for a daily
driver vehicle (Honda, Toyota, or?).
sale-227112721@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:sale-227112721@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx?Subject=68_Rebel>
From: http://spokane.craigslist.org/car/227112721.html
(Note: Four photos on the CraigsList page...)
****************************************************
-- END --
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 08:22:41 -0500
From: Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 78 AMC Matador 4dr For Sale, Weare NH - $1450
To: (Recipient list suppressed)
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.1.20061031082040.02146b00@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Please don't hit reply; it's not mine -- I'm just passing it along.
****************************************************
Date: 2006-10-28, 2:24PM EDT
78 AMC Matador 4dr - $1450
I'll post some pics when it stops raining. 83,000 miles, grew up in Florida
so not much rust. Drive anywhere condition.360 motor runs excellent.
Interior is original and in real god shape. Exterior is good, had an
economy respray a few years ago, several small filled dents are visible to
the critical eye. Chrome is good. three of Power windows work, drivers rear
does not. 603-529-4781. I would consider trade for an F250,(or equivelent)
presently running and inspected.
sale-226984850@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:sale-226984850@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx?Subject=68_Rebel>
From: http://nh.craigslist.org/car/226984850.html
(Note: photos on the CraigsList page...)
****************************************************
-- END --
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 08:29:49 -0500
From: Archimedes <Freedom@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 74 Javelin For Sale, Harrisburg PA - $1900
To: (Recipient list suppressed)
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.1.20061031082712.02260160@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
Please don't hit reply; it's not mine -- I'm just passing it along.
****************************************************
Date: 2006-10-28, 8:23PM EDT
74 Javelin - $1900
7 30 8 cyl needs fuel pump replaced comes with part, needs fixing
516-603-5059
sale-227059397@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:sale-227059397@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx?Subject=68_Rebel>
From: http://harrisburg.craigslist.org/car/227059397.html
(Note: photos on the CraigsList page...)
****************************************************
-- END --
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 09:52:06 -0500
From: Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 63 Ramb classic sighting on Fox tv.
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES62ZbLAX3cf3000000dd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Happened to have the fox tv show Prison Break on last night , 10/30,
and saw a few glimpses of a gettaway car, looked like a 63 rambler
classic sedan in gold. there were a few clips of the car driving,
towards the end of the show. and a few clips of next weeks show where
it looks like it gets badly tangled and destroyed in the getway crash
scene. wondered if anyone else caught a glimpse.
regards.
=============================================================
Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 09:58:41 -0500
From: Ken Siroonian <KSiroonian@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] AMC shows or anythign going on- atlanta, roanoke
and north
To: amcrelay@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<ADVANCES622TUSzbAUf000000de@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain
Will be at the office -in atlanata Nov. 8-10 and then driving home up
through roanoke, Va to new england/boston, over the weekend. I usually
fly home but driving back this time, up thru roanoke and to boston over
the weekend. wondering if anything amc is going on during the weekend
of the 10,11,12. shows or any pick part places or any amc/amx file
listers in the area with anything going on. I am looking for some parts
for my newest pacer as well, but alwasy good to meet other amc
folks/listers, and their cars. regards,
ken.
=============================================================
Posted by wixList Archiver -- http://www.amxfiles.com/wixlist
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 7:58:00 -0800
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Power Steering
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <21762856.1162396680266.JavaMail.root@web27>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Andrew is right, The bar is the nest way to gain road feel.
You can help by dropping the pressure. I really need to source who makes the kit to do this, but you can drop the line pressure in the saginaw pumps easily and this will help. If your only looking for a little better feel.
In a nutshell what you do is take the high pressure line off, take out the big nut that is the seat for it. Under the nut you will find a valve and spring, Take them out, look at the valve, on one end is a small nut, under it one or more washers. What you need to do is remove this nut and add washers to drop pressure. One of the co's that deals in P/S stuff sells a kit to do this and it comes with a tool to hold the valve to get the nut off. If you don't get this kit you have to be super careful not to damage the valves machined surfaces and it is tough to get this nut off. Washers come in the kit, Or take them from another pumps valve.
I did this with my American, I put so many in that it just barely assisted the steering, I liked it, but I'm not sure how this would effect box life if driven a lot.
You can also get reduced pump pressure by using a valve from another car type.
For instance on the late model Jeep line, the Wranglers put out aroun 800-900 PSI and the XJ's put out around 1,000-1,100 psi. So when I put the accesories on my American I had a New XJ pump and a used 91 Wrangler pump, I put the Wrangler valve in the XJ pump.
On Fords, the Mustang GT's had less boost pressure than standard Fords. As far as I have been able to tell the Saginaw pumps to be way universal and shared across many makes and models. I would try and source a pump speced for a 78 or so Transam, In 79 IIRC They switched over to O-ring seals on the Lines, stay away from that if your using the whole pump. the valve alone will be about the same.
Someday I will pull the valve from my spare used late model pump and lay it beside the early square reservoired pump to see if they are really the same or not, I believe they are, but
Your mileage may vary!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> " From: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> "
> " Some time ago, I added power steering to my 70 AMX, primarily, so my
> " wife could park it.
> " I got the pump, steering box and all the other parts and pieces from a
> " 70 Javelin and the system works well, however, I've never been very
> " happy with the "feel" of the steering. It seems over boosted, if that
> " is the correct term.
> " >From reading the list, I decided to change the pump, and bought a
> " setup from a later model. This one has the smaller pump and supposedly,
> " better road feel.
>
> changing the pump won't do anything for feel if it doesn't change
> pressure. even if it does also change your pressure it will have only
> a small effect on feel. much more important is a torsion bar in the
> valve assembly on the steering gear ittself. thick bar, more feel;
> thin bar, less feel. bars range from 0.165" dia - which is probably
> what you have - to 0.210" in police and iroc packages, in mostly
> 0.010" steps.
>
> see http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_1.html and
> http://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_3.html for some ideas and info.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2006 12:35:15 -0500
From: Don Johnson <donjohnson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Power Steering
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <002b01c6fddc$175b2700$6400a8c0@DONS>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Sandwich Maker,
Thanks for the great info.
Do you know if I could do the same with my old pump?
I checked the parts manual and there is a pressure relief valve on the old one that I'm guessing I could change the relief pressure spring to vary the pressure.
I would like to keep the stock pump for authenticity even tho its kind of big and ugly, because its repainted, rebuilt, polished and partially chromed.
Thanks again for the help.
Don
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 11:48:53 -0600
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Mustang front end
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>, <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D01A678E1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 01:57 PM
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Dave; AMC "borrowed" a lot of the front end ideas from
Fomoco when they went away from trunnions in 1970. The
biggest diff would be in placing the spring high on
the top arm. I would cut out the whole shock tower
assy from a 70s and up Rebel or Hornet donor and fool
around with that, see if your 62 matchs up pretty
good.
-----------------------------------------
ONE MORE TIME!!!
The trunnion suspension for the big cars IS NOT the same as the
American! The upper trunnion for the big cars is a very simple, really
foolproof and trouble free design. The later model American/Javelin/AMX
trunnion is troublesome after 10+ years of service as it was designed to
not be lubricated. It's great for 10 years/100K miles, and will last
that long, but after 20 years it's pretty much toast. NOT SO for the big
car trunnion! There is little stress on the upper trunnion and they
RARELY wear out as long as it's kept somewhat greased. Since there's
little stress on the part it's pretty forgiving as long as it's
lubricated every few years.
It's also easy to install air bags or a coil over shock on this
suspension with some simple fabrication. A coil over can be used in
place of the shock or in place of the spring. Both locations require a
little fab work. The later ball joint suspension is much heavier and no
better.
On 62 and later big cars the lower trunnion has already been replaced
with a ball joint and single arm/strut rod -- it pretty much IS a MII
type design. The lower trunnion COULD be troublesome if abused --
meaning hardly ever greased over a long period of time. I've only had
one car out of six that had a lower trunnion come apart, and all were
well used (over 80K miles) when I got them. You're not doing yourself
any favors by deleting the upper trunnion on a 62-69
Classic/Rebel/Ambassador. The 58-63 American uses an unusual trunnion,
but it can be fixed much easier than replaced with something else.
If brakes are a concern, there are several options -- in order of
fabrication work required:
1) Use a set of 79-83 Concord/Spirit/Pacer front discs. Bolts right on,
and Speedway has a braided banjo hose kit for $40 that fits both the
early and late caliper.
2) Aerolite makes a complete hub/caliper/rotor kit for the Javelin and
AMX that bolts right on. Price is around $1200 last I heard.
3) The Mustang II hub is supposed to fit the AMC small car/pre 67 big
car six cylinder spindle (I believe the bigger spindle is for 67-78 V-8
big cars, maybe all), but I haven't verified it. This allows use of a
Mustang II hub and rotor, but the caliper bracket will need to be
modified or shimmed to center the caliper and/or use an aftermarket
caliper. Be aware thath the offset for the MII hub is 1/2" to 3/4"
further out than the AMC hub, so the track will be 1" to 1-1/2" wider.
In most cases this won't be a problem.
4) Use an AMC drum brake hub with the drum removed and an aftermarket
hat type rotor. A mount will need to be made for an aftermarket caliper
or the AMC caliper mount used with stock calipers or an adapter.
Speedway sells several mounting kits for older Fords that used a bolt on
spindle that could be adapted to the AMC spindle, and they sell weld on
mounts for rear brakes that could be used for adapters or the basis for
a fabricated caliper mount. As long as you use 3/8" cold rolled plate a
caliper mount can be made easy enough.
5) Finally, do you really need discs? I once mounted 64 Classic front
drums on a 61 American. The Classic drums were 1/2" wider than the
American's and used a slightly larger wheel cylinder. I think both were
the same diameter, but I could be wrong about how much bigger (and how)
the 64 Classic brakes were (both were six cylinder cars). The end result
was that you'd think the American had discs on it -- stopping power
improved dramatically. If you have access to a parts car with bigger
drums, that might be all the improvement you need.
I've modified many AMCs, and I don't mind taking something that doesn't
work well, is hard to replace, or hard to find parts for out on a
modified driver. The upper trunnion just doesn't fit the bill. It can be
hard to find, but is easy to change and lasts forever if taken care of
-- even the 64-69 American/Jav/AMX replacements (made with urethane
instead of the original synthetic rubber, or bronze bushings). The
trunnion suspensions are generally lighter as well. It's more work and
trouble to replace than to repair, but people still insist on going to
great lengths to replace them!
The MII is popular, but that is mostly for older cars with straight
axles or early independent suspensions that still use king pins, are
difficult to work on, and most are hard to get parts for. Only recently
have MII kits become available for cars like early Mustangs. I believe
that's more the kit manufacturers trying to expand their markets, but
may be racers/pro street builders just looking for something cost
effective and "pretty" -- for racers easy to adjust to track conditions
and find replacements parts for. Of course if you're restoring there is
no choice but to keep original.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 10:47:22 -0800 (PST)
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 64 American/72 Hornet morphed
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061101184722.9234.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Andrew; When I parted out my last Gremmie I cut the
shock tower area at the fatory seams. When I finish up
my other project I plan to check out if the Hornet
front end will fit the American. I still remember what
we did with the two Javelin fronts so I hope I will be
able to copy it......Russ
____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business
(http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com)
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 10:54:07 -0800 (PST)
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] mustang front ends
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061101185407.36753.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Nick; the kit sounds enticing. Seeing as how AMC parts
are so close together in design it seems an easy
conversion from the wide frame Jav family to the
narrow frame Hornet-American-Spirit family. Hardest
part is, of course, gettin the first one completed....Russ
____________________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 11:03:26 -0800 (PST)
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] big ugly
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061101190326.84554.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Mike; You say potahto, I say potayto. Yeah I meant the
SILL plate. Sometimes I type so fast the smoke makes
my eyes cloud up.
The one picture showed some rust issues by the front
of the plate. Seeing as it is 40 plus year old car and
the PO didn't do a bang up paint job he might have
skimped on the rust removal.
Have you tried to buff out the paint and see what it
looks like. It has some shine to it so it looks good
enough to concentrate on the mechanicals and bugs.
You gotta love them fins. I prefer the '59 (let the
big fins fly) but 61 was the last year for the
prominent fins. 62 only hic-cupped a set of fins and
by 63 they were gone completely.
I wonder what a set of 60 DeSoto fins would look like
on my AMX. Hmmmm......Russ
____________________________________________________________________________________
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail
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------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 11:12:11 -0800 (PST)
From: russ hathaway <russh97309@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] big ugly
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061101191211.48626.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Mike; some AMCers in your area, Joe are out there,
might have some later year drums. Since 74 was the
year mandated for front discs I would check out 72 or
so Hornet/Gremlin/Jav drums. The fronts will just bolt
on (no MC to worry about, no worries) and you can
plumb in a balancing valve. The stock rears can be
converted once you get around to pulling the axles and
replace the seals/bearings.
You would want discs of course, but the drum update is
the most expedient right now.
I have a pile of drums that is getting larger and if
you want to pay postage I can send you a set of newer
drums, but Joe Fulton is up in Salinas , which is
closer than Oregon, and he may be able to set you up.....Russ
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get your email and see which of your friends are online - Right on the New Yahoo.com
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------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2006 12:08:40 -0800 (PST)
From: d stohler <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] mustang suspension
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061101200840.6375.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
ok, im not sure where the mustang 2 suspension came in at. if anyone has the issue of car craft, with the red lookin i think it was a chevelle on it, they did an upgrade on their mustangs suspension. it has tubular upper a arms, tubular lower arm, not a arm, adjustable strut rod, and ball joints upper and lower.
my thing is not with the trunion. mine are still serviceable. my bushings are going bad. it sat in a field for 20 years or so. and then i started drivin it and have in the last 6 years put about 6000 miles on it. i have seen that at espo i think it was i can get bushings. the strut bushing tho i have been told is the weird one for my 62 big body car. something about they are to small or something. dont really understand how it was described to me before. anyway that it wont work the way it was bought. i got that tubular triangulated rear suspension to put in it. i was liking how the tubular suspension for the stock mustang looked. keeps the factory high spring. no need to cut spring towers or nothing. i just wanted to know if anyone knew if the length of the mustang arms are anywhere near the same as the rambler and if where the lower and upper mounts are, the spindle would still sit true to the road surface. if i confused anyone i didnt mean to. i know i can just pull my
stock stuff apart and repaint it and get most of the bushings. the strut arm tho is what i have been told is the pain in the rear. i guess if no one understands exactly what im talkin about i will just have to wing it and find out...
frank by the way, i got a mustang 2 disk brake kit. the hubs do NOT NOT NOT fit my spindles. the bearings suplied are different size, my bearings for my stock hub dont fit the m2 hub, and the spindle would need to be extended out about 1.5" to keep from rubbin on the trunion. it is an 11" rotor. i could make it fit maybe by finding bearings that might fitby trial and erorr. and use some kind of braket maybe to space out the spindle. but then strength factor would come in to play. i didnt feel like playin that route. not sure how else an m2 rotor is suposed to fit. i like the idea of using the factory hub and putting a hat over it. that might work....
dave stohler
(confused today)
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