AMC-List Digest, Vol 9, Issue 44
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
AMC-List Digest, Vol 9, Issue 44
- From: amc-list-request@xxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 23:59:50 +0000
Send AMC-List mailing list submissions to
amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx
You can reach the person managing the list at
amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx
When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of AMC-List digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. clutches heavy duty (Armand Eshleman)
2. Re: t-5 into my 62 classic (photo post page)
(Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
3. Re: t-5 in my 62 classic (rear axle install)
(Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
4. Re: t-5 transmission for 304
(Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
5. Chrysler Airflite concept (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
6. Future Pic-a-Part candidates (Brien Tourville)
7. Lead in 1977 (JOE FULTON)
8. Help pulling hub and axle 60 Rambler (johnny kazek)
9. Re: clutches heavy duty (Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM)
10. Parts Needed (namdra@xxxxxxxx)
11. Re: San Jose Ca vehicle ID verifier (Tom Jennings)
12. Re: Carter BBD alternatives (Tom Jennings)
13. Re: Help pulling hub and axle 60 Rambler (Tom Jennings)
14. Re: t-5 in my 62 classic (Tom Jennings)
15. Re: t-5 transmission for 304 (Glenn Ford)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 07:47:03 -0500
From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] clutches heavy duty
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <005201c6f121$2ea1ac80$6601a8c0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I had a Hayes 3500 lb pressure plate in my old Camaro, (long gone kept the
javelin though) it was a bugger to push in. My left leg was bigger than my
right one. Har har. I had to reinforce the z bar to keep it from peeling the
lever arms off. The first time a lever arm peeled off I was in the MN Metro
area about 17 yrs old, and it was a stock Malibu, cheap GM junk. It sucked
couldn't figure out what was happening and in rush hour traffic. Luckily I
was going to my brothers place and he knew a mechanic that could fix it for
me, I had no tools along either. So anyway I knew enough to fix the Camaro's
z bar from that experience.
My Javelin just has a standard plate and disc in it now. This does really
suck as shifting into third gear the clutch seems to slip, that never
happened with the Hayes setup. However I certainly don"t want all the pedal
pressure either. There has to be a happy medium somewhere. Maybe that might
be to just slow down and smell the roses and enjoy cruising.
take care all,
Armand
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 07:43:51 -0500
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] t-5 into my 62 classic (photo post page)
To: <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D019ABE2B@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
There is an AMC group on MSN to post pics for the list. The link is
www.groups.msn.com/amcsforever2.msnw. Create an album and post away!
There is a message board, but not much there. The site was originally
created for list members to post pics.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 07:57:02 -0500
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] t-5 in my 62 classic (rear axle install)
To: <das24rules@xxxxxxxxx>, <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D019ABE45@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
It's not to difficult to install a rear axle in a torque tube body
that's completely reversible. As Mark pointed out, there will be a few
holes left when/if it's ever removed, but that's about all. I'd just
have a few inconspicuous holes if I removed my Jag axle. Don't know if
I'd go to the trouble of welding or covering them or not, since they
wouldn't be visible or cause any problems. Dave will have 2-3 holes
drilled through the lower rails for the lower four link arm mounts and a
couple in the floor and upper rails for the upper arm crossmember. All
I'd suggest is careful planning do the parts are bolt in instead of
welded. For the upper crossmember that means a flat or "L" shaped plate
on each end that fits snuggly between the rails, then drill bolt holes.
Done properly, with backing plates the width of the rail to prevent
crushing, bolts will hold as good or better than welds. Use lock
washers, and if you're still concerned or the bolts are hard to get to,
a bit of "lock tite" as well.
A front crossmember is easy -- "L" brackets bolt to the existing
crossmember mounting points in the front rails, then a universal,
fabricated, or modified crossmember from the donor car is drilled and
bolted on top of (or beneath if necessary) the "L" brackets (a short
section of 2"x2"x1/8" or so angle should suffice for "L" brackets).
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 07:16:59 -0500
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] t-5 transmission for 304
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D019ABDFF@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Dave Stohler is putting the T-5 in a 62 Classic two door, wants to keep
the bench seat. The Mustang location puts the shifter back between
bucket seats. I agree with John, that's a great location -- if you have
bucket seats. Chevy S-10 location is great for buckets, but apparently
you have to move the speedo drive gear, at least in some applications.
One fellow I talked to this weekend is having to do that, I'm sending
him an aircraft quality (used for titanium) cobalt drill bit that we
hope will drill into the hardened output shaft. A 5/32 hole about 3/16"
deep needs to be drilled for a pin to key the output gear.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 07:23:03 -0500
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Chrysler Airflite concept
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D019ABE0A@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Jim, it does resemble the old "torpedo back" Nash Airflites somewhat! I
like it myself, just give it a more practical interior and gas cap
location. Well, the gas cap can probably stay, but the interior needs to
be more conventional for production. I didn't see anything wrong with
the exterior at all. Looks like it could easily be built on the 300
floorpan too.
---original--------------
Date: Friday, October 13, 2006 08:34 PM
From: Jim B <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
thought I'd point out the "new" Chrysler Airflite.
http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/frame.php?file=car.php&carnum=1627
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 11:48:07 -0400
From: "Brien Tourville" <hh7x@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Future Pic-a-Part candidates
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <45337177.9091.16EF5F@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
http://www.roadstersway.com/
=Bt=
milnersXcoupe
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 09:35:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Lead in 1977
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061016163532.46763.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
While I'm procrastinating on a tough task here at
work, I thought I would relay some information about
my project this past weekend.
I have a 77 Hornet AMX which is being parted out. I'm
trying to get "everything but the squeal" off of the
car before it goes to the junkyard. It has a badly
damaged passenger quarter but the driver's side
quarter has only one big soft dent and is rust free.
So I'm taking that quarter off by cutting the spot
welds and removing it "properly" rather than the
sawzall route.
My observations:
A spot weld cutter is a must. A 3/8 drill bit does
not work nearly as well. It goes off-center more
easily even if you punch the spotwelds first. I used
a Blair spotweld cutter and went through several
cutter "disks" and several of the little arbors which
center the cut. The hardened metal of these cutters
is very brittle. They work great, however, when they
are sharp and new.
AMC still used leaded seams in 1977. The C-pillar
seams were leaded. In addition there were three or
four braised spots in this area and at the front of
the quarter, just below the front of the quarter
window and at the rear near the tail light piece.
The rear lower seam where it is spot welded to both
the trunk floor extension and the rear valance panel
is very hard to reach with the rear springs in the
car. I had to use a Sawzall to separate the are to
get access to the spot welds here because I did not
want to drop the springs at this point.
If anyone wants any Hornet hatchback sheet metal let
me know. The rear quarter I cut off will go on Ebay
in a few days if not sold.
Regards,
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 17:07:45 +0000
From: "johnny kazek" <johnnykazek@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Help pulling hub and axle 60 Rambler
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY119-F19A104312E64D32841ED70A5090@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format="flowed"
Actually found new wheel hub for 60 Rambler and started trying to
pull it today. Although it's slipped and spins freely, it won't pull
off easily, budges about 1/8". Don't want to force it, and was
advised to pull axle anyway. Don't understand what's keeping it
from slipping right off.
The 4 bolts that hold axle won't budge (no surprise on 46 year old
car, right?), so I've soaked them in PB Blaster and understand I might
have to do that for a few days before making progress, or possibly
using some heat to try to loosen them up. Any other suggestions
definitely welcome.
First time doing this, don't know what to expect after those bolts are
loose. Will the axle slip right out or are special tools
required? Any ideas on how many lbs torque to tighten those bolts
back on with?
Thanks for your time and suggestions-
Johnny
_________________________________________________________________
[1]Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live
Spaces
References
Visible links
1. http://g.msn.com/8HMBENUS/2740??PS=47575
Hidden links:
2. mailto:mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 12:51:42 -0500
From: "Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM"
<Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] clutches heavy duty
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID:
<092D8CF6635129428E9B66DC582C3B3D019AC0BB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The typical Rambler car clutches were really light. They were designed
that way to slip a little for a smoother engagement. Using the standard
Jeep clutch should be more than adequate. They are designed for a more
positive engagement. Makes sense because of the difference in usage --
easy to drive car vs. working truck. There should be little or no slip
in the Jeep clutch, which does have stronger springs.
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 13:25:59 -0500
From: namdra@xxxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] Parts Needed
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20061016.132559.-16531183.0.NAMDRA@xxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Received the following from Tim Cole, Performance Account Manager for
Comp Cams, who is building a Super Stock AMX. Can anyone help him out
with what he needs?
>Hi Jock,
I am in need of your help. My painter has had brain fade and has lost a
vital piece to putting my '70 AMX back together. It's all painted and
I'm to go to Colorado to pick it up right after SEMA. He has lost the
pot metal mounting bracket that goes in between the two tail light
assemblies...the one that the reflector and backup lights bolt to. The
pot metal tail light housings are there. We sent everything to Paul's
Chroming in Pennsylvania to have refinished....when the parts get there,
they take pictures of everything and return with an estimated time and
cost associated with the job. That piece is not in the pictures, but I
have to have one. Do you have any suggestions for me....or would you
possibly know someone who would have such a thing that I could buy. We
have the lens', so he knows he took it apart, but..............
Thanks!!
Tim Cole
Performance Account Manager
Cell (901) 277-2824
P.S. Am also looking for a chin spoiler for that car....one like a
Group 19 so NHRA will buy off on it. I saw pictures of Jeff Lee's car
and it has one, but he tells me that it was on the car when he bought
it....and it's cracked and needs to be replaced, so he needs one also
and said he would buy two because he knows what happens to them. Jeff
Kennedy said he is "going to" tool up to make them, but hasn't. Any
ideas here?>
Jock Jocewicz - President/Editor NAMDRA NAMDRA@xxxxxxxx
8537 Antioch Rd., Salem, WI 53168 (262) 843-4326
JOIN NAMDRA, the best AMC club around!!
AMO#19, NAMDRA#46, AMCRC#974, NHRA#41915, IHRA#6766
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 15:08:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] San Jose Ca vehicle ID verifier
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0610161508010.7205@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Sat, 14 Oct 2006, Matt Haas wrote:
> I would not use Permatex #2 on the parts of the studs sticking out of the
> block. It's sticky stuff and I think it would end up doing a very good job
> of gluing the thermostat housing to the studs which would make the removal
> job that much worse.
Well, next time I change a thermostat, I'll let you know if I
need to get a new block :-)
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 15:10:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Carter BBD alternatives
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0610161509310.7205@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Frank Swygert wrote:
> Jack, before you do a compression check pulling the valve cover might
> be quicker if it's the two bolt in top type. That will show a stuck
> valve/misplaced pushrod/collapsed lifter right away. The only thing it
> won't show is a burnt valve or blown head gasket (could be blown on the
> outside instead of between cylinders?). Or even worse, a hole in the
> piston. Of course it would have a lot of blow-by/crankcase pressure if
> that was the case, should be obvious from my unfortunate experience!
Yeah, and a quick spark plug read should reveal gross problems too.
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 15:24:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Help pulling hub and axle 60 Rambler
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0610161516010.7205@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Mon, 16 Oct 2006, johnny kazek wrote:
> Actually found new wheel hub for 60 Rambler and started trying to
> pull it today. Although it's slipped and spins freely, it won't pull
> off easily, budges about 1/8". Don't want to force it, and was
> advised to pull axle anyway. Don't understand what's keeping it
> from slipping right off.
I assume you mean, the four bolts holding th brake backing plate,
etc to the axle tube?
If so, pull hard! It won't hurt anything -- the pressed-on
tapered bearings pressed onto the axle shaft are pullin against
the bearing race that sits into a counterbored hole in the axle
tube. THAT is held in place by the rectangular plate behind
the backin plate.
If it's hard to get off, assuming the car is on jack stands
loosely bolt a wheel on with a couple of lugs and slam-pull it
by hand. The added mass might do it.
It' sprobably all stuck with gasket sealer, rust, dirt, etc.
Try not to pry between the bearin retainer plate and the axle
tube; you'll just ding it up and not really get enough torque
in there anyways to get the job done.
NOTE ALSO! one side has shims -- you need to save those and
reinstall. If you pry in there you'll wreck 'em. Theyre in only
one side, I forget if driver or pass. RTFM that TSM! YOu have
one, right?
With the axle nut INSTALLED, a slide-hammer axle puller would
work here, since you're just tryin to unstick the bearing race
and gooped retainer.
Then of course you'll have to get the old hub off. Assuming
the nut is off, I'd just take it to a shop with a big arbor
press. If it's spun, all sorts of nastiness could have gone on
in there. The key probably gouged out a nice little donut-shaped
home in the hub for itself and doesnt want to come out.
I hope the axle is still OK!
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 15:25:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] t-5 in my 62 classic
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.64.0610161525060.7205@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
On Sat, 14 Oct 2006, d stohler wrote:
> i forgot to mention about the rear end. i have already got a triangulated 4 link to put in it.
D'OH! That would make a difference! I think you wrote that
earlier and I forgot. Sorry!
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2006 17:59:43 -0600
From: "Glenn Ford" <gcmford@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] t-5 transmission for 304
To: "mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000301c6f17f$26d06510$6501a8c0@ARCNSPARKNB>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Maybe the T-5 shaft is not as hard as a spider gear shaft (case-hardened, I
believe), but if it won't drill with the cobalt (used for stainless and
cast, I believe, and apparently titanium), try a carbide-tipped drill. I
used one to drill out the end of a spider gear shaft to get to a broken
retainer bolt. Only way to salvage the diff.
Took a long time to drill, but it was encouraging to see the chips coming
off, and the heat build-up was minimal as long as I used a slow enough speed
to avoid melting the braze holding the carbides.
The carbides for drilling will be especially for such purposes due to the
angle of the cutting edge. Masonry or hammer drill bits are unlikely to be
suitable. I just happened to have it on hand, so I can't say where it came
from, but definitely it had the right cut angle. You might be able to grind
a masonry bit correctly with the appropriate stone.
Glenn Ford
------------------------------
_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 9, Issue 44
***************************************
Back to the Home of the AMC Gremlin