Re: [AMC-List] San Jose Ca vehicle ID verifier

[Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>]

I would not use Permatex #2 on the parts of the studs sticking out of the 
block. It's sticky stuff and I think it would end up doing a very good job 
of gluing the thermostat housing to the studs which would make the removal 
job that much worse. Anti-seize, on the other hand, will keep electrolysis 
from occurring between the studs and the thermostat housing which will make 
removal easier (and also keep you thermostat housing from being eaten up).

Matt

At 07:00 PM 10/11/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>re: front-of-six-block studs:
>
>On Wed, 11 Oct 2006, Matt Haas wrote:
>
> > I also recommend putting Permatex #2 on the block end of the studs (and 
> the
> > gasket itself) and a very light coating of anti-seize over the studs to
> > keep this from happening.
>
>I agree with Matt. The studs freeze in the block from
>corrosion such as moisture getting in there (easy enough for
>thermostat/water neck housings) then hot/cold/hot/cold/...
>engine heat.
>
>I run a dry tap down the holes to get them dry and clean.
>The stud should run to the bottom two-fingers.
>
>Non-hardening Permatex or equiv (I assume that's the #2) on
>the stud, block-end. Wet the whole length! Totally blocks water
>from getting into the hole.
>
>
>(I have one can of high-temp high-nickel anti-seize (overkill
>for these) I use for everything, but I'm thinking that for this
>particular app, the Permatex might actually be better on the
>stud nuts. Sticky and gross, but it will keep water out of the
>threads, and that alone should prevent seizing. It's not a big
>torque problem area.)
>
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mhaas@xxxxxxx
Cincinnati, OH
http://www.mattsoldcars.com
1967 Rambler American wagon
1968 Rambler American sedan
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