AMC-List Digest, Vol 6, Issue 6
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AMC-List Digest, Vol 6, Issue 6
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- Date: Mon, 03 Jul 2006 18:26:14 +0000
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Engine Mount Frustration (Mark Price)
2. Re: Great day at the Gaithersburg, MD AMC National AMCRC
show... (Mark Price)
3. Re: 69 SC/Rambler for sale (Mark Price)
4. Re: Forged steel AMC cranks (Mark Price)
5. Re: D&D transmissions? T-5 questions (Mark Price)
6. Re: Forged steel AMC cranks (Wayne E LaMothe)
7. Motor Mounts on the six (Michael Bailey)
8. Race Gremlin Info Needed (Jock J Jocewicz)
9. Re: D&D transmissions? T-5 questions (Sandwich Maker)
10. Re: best oil filter for a 390? (Sandwich Maker)
11. Re: Forged steel AMC cranks (Sandwich Maker)
12. Re: D&D transmissions? T-5 questions (Mark Price)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 8:23:32 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Engine Mount Frustration
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <23259989.1151940212594.JavaMail.root@web19>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Last time I put the 4.0L in the American, I put the engine and trans in without the mounts or plates nolted up. Then pushed the engine over to the drivers side and dropped the passenger mount into the hole in the crossmember then fought the three bolts into the engine. Then I repeated the process on the drivers side. I'd do it opposite if you have the intake and exhaust on the six to contend with. Just do the easiest side to reach last.
Still a PIA, but not quite as bad as trying to get those studs in the holes. Especially if you trying to save your nice freshly painted firewall!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> On Sun, 2 Jul 2006, JOE FULTON wrote:
>
> > I spent about three hours today trying to get the 258
> > to sit down into the motor mount plates on the
> > crossmember. I'm working alone and at least some of
> > you may have experienced the same frustration.
>
> Sounds like to got it untangled. I jhsut chanegd the motor
> mounts on my 258, and installed a 258 into our other hornet a
> fewmonths back.
>
> It's annoying, even when it goes "easy".
>
> I don't have a sure-fire straight-shot so much as a methodology.
> Getting them out isn't so bad; the driver side, the mount bracket
> on the block is almost vertical... I lift the motor fairly high,
> install passenger side first. The drop the drivers side mount
> onto the xmember, then add the bracket on top. I find something
> to drift the holes into alignment; gettthin the first bolt
> started sucks.
>
> I got smart(er) on the most recent -- the stud on the replacement
> mounts was 1" or longer -- far too long! I hacksawed it down to
> 1/2" or so, plenty long enough for nut and lock washer with 3
> threads stickin out, it made it a LOT easier to slip the mount
> in on the pass. side!
>
> I don't know why the studs are so long, there's really no need for
> it.
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 8:40:43 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Great day at the Gaithersburg, MD AMC National
AMCRC show...
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Jerry Casper <gremlingts@xxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <4507011.1151941243050.JavaMail.root@web19>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
How could you not mention the 68 American wagon with 900 original miles on it?
My first walk by I missed the sign and thought it was a nive resto. Then I read the sign. That car was one fo the nicest cleanest cars I have ever seen!
I picked up my 66 Classic wagon taillights and outer housings from Tim Linton and walked around a while, I'm not much for starting up conversations though, The boys liked the cars but bored quickly. My youngest who is 13 rally likes the humpsters, Older son wants a Wrangler. So at least they havn't gone ricer on me! :]
Yet :[
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Jerry Casper <gremlingts@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> My club sponsored the show, had a pretty fair
> turnout, about 47 cars on the showfield, considering
> the weather we all just escaped on the East Coast this
> past week ( rain, rain, RAIN! ). Had some awesome
> rides show up, some interesting muscle like a NASCAR
> matador coupe, black drag Gremlin, BBG Javelin, in
> addition to alot of stock Ramblers. One SWEET AMC was
> a '72 Gremlin, with JUST 13k miles on it! Guy has had
> it since new, autocrossed it years ago, and just
> brought it out for this show after 15-20 years of
> storage! Paint was dark green, V-8 car, absolutely
> beautiful. He even had a folder of alot of AMC stuff
> he'd saved over the years, including a Randall 401-XR
> ad from some oil or tire book. Nice! I talked with him
> awhile, he's got a '70 Javelin roof spoiler he wants
> to part with <BIG grin! yeah, I'm working on it...>.
> Nice guy, hope to see him again, told him to come
> visit Gremlinland in Woodbridge, as he only works 4
> miles from me, and lives 20 miles south. Never met him
> before, he's known about our local club for years, but
> just kept missing the shows and stuff to go to.
> Anyway, hope to strike up a good friendship with him.
> Got alot of good pics, both digital and 35mm (lordy,
> been AGES since I broke out ol' Betsy, the Minolta
> 7000i camera, but I figured I ought to get some REAL
> photos for achange. LOL ). A V-8 Hornet hatchback
> showed up as well, a nice '52 Nash Airflyte wagon,
> blue with woodgrain accents, some sweet convertibles,
> a bunch of Rebels, one with some nice mods to it (
> Spirit Turbocast-II wheels with modified centers for
> volcano caps AND Rambler insert in fake knock-off, and
> a special hood job where he took a 2nd rebel hood, and
> made hood scoops from the inverted indentations and
> welded and seamlessly molded it in. AWESOME job! Looks
> factory. Calcutta maroon color, interesting color, but
> nice looking.
> Some other oldies included a '60 Rambler 4-door,
> pink, a '58 Ambassador.
> 6 wagons, including an Eagle, were there, some
> mid-60's, all nice. WOnderful day, sunny but some
> clouds and overcast on occasion to break the heat. I
> bought alot of neat stuff at the vendors for good
> prices, got 2 AMC am/fm/cb radios for cheap, some
> Gremlin and Matador Coupe parts, misc. literature. I
> was whupped by the end of the day, though, luckily my
> other club members did most of the work. :)
> Didn't stay for the banquet, wife had a headache and
> wanted to go , so we left about 4 pm. Wonderfully
> pleased with all the nice people I met, plus the parts
> and stuff. Wish more had turned up for the show, wish
> I COULD have had a running AMC to take, too, but not
> to be. Maybe this summer, I'll get one running and
> roadable, finally.
> So, on that note, I'll post some pics in the Photo
> section later. Need to do some work first. :) Au
> revoir,
>
> JErry Casper
>
> __________________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 8:43:56 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] 69 SC/Rambler for sale
To: Eddie Stakes <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: jjocewicz@xxxxxxxxxxx, AMC List <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <15692217.1151941436355.JavaMail.root@web19>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
DON'T SELL THAT!!!!
Find another bodyman!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Eddie Stakes <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> 69 SC/Rambler. 18,000 original miles. In need of a ground up restoration.
> ""A"" paint, small scoop, one of the first 500 built. Missing some parts.
> Interior needs resto. Radio option. I just bought the car from the 2nd owner
> who owned it since 1974 in South Carolina. The car was mainly raced and then
> parked in 1978. It has rust in the quarters and rockers that seems to be
> from water leaks. Under carriage looks real nice. It is missing the original
> engine and trans. It comes with a 390 block, pistons, rods, crank, a
> replacement T10P trans that was bought new from AMC in 1974. The original
> shifter, tach, passenger mirror, air flapper and air cleaner are missing. It
> has rebel machine wheels on it, it has the original tailpipes with chrome
> tips and they are in excellent condition. They were pulled off the car in
> 1974 and stored in a shed. Glass is good. Fender emblems are there, scoop is
> there but needs repair, torque links sre there, the original rearend is
> there with a 4:44 gear in it. I will include the original 3:54 ring and
> pinion. It has a Lakewood bellhousing. I bought the car with full intention
> of restoring it myself. This has been a dream of mine to own an SC. The
> gentleman whom was going to do the body has passed away. He was the only
> person I knew good enough to do the resto right so I am going to sell the
> car. Car is in the Chicago area. Delivery available. $15,000 or best offer.
> Will consider any and all bids up to end of ad. Please contact me at
> JJocewicz@xxxxxxxxxxx or 630-789-6063. Joe Jocewicz jjocewicz@xxxxxxxxxxx
> 630-789-6063 -hm
> Eddie Stakes'
> Planet Houston AMX
> 713.464.8825
> eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> *email is currently HEAVY
> Call if important*
> www.planethoustonamx.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 8:46:51 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Forged steel AMC cranks
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <11003100.1151941611510.JavaMail.root@web19>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I forget how much you can get, but the rod hitting the block or bottom of the piston is usually the limiting factor :]
Don't try this at home!
If I had the money I'd love to have a 327 cranck done so I could really replicate the Bill Kraft Rambler!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I found a machinist that alters existing cranks by welding additional
> material onto the rod journals in a strategic location using a submerged arc
> method. Watched as he proceeded to drastically lengthen the stroke of a two
> cylinder tractor engine. It was almost half the rod journal diameter. The
> antique tractor pullers love their stroked engines too! He straightens the
> cranks and machines them too. He has an induction hardening machine. Not
> sure if that works on cranks. Any way I was impressed!
> Wondered how well this would do on an AMC forged 390 or 401 crank. How much
> displacement could a guy end up with??
>
> Armand
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 8:57:07 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] D&D transmissions? T-5 questions
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <24879692.1151942227313.JavaMail.root@web19>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Thanks!
The clutch disc info really helps as my current clutch setup only has a few thousand miles on it. I can probably get by with just replacing the disc!
Stock disc should be fine for my 4.0L
I will prbably go with a GM steel retainer, but I'm not sure. I need to compare it to the AMC. I have a bad GM unit an da good T-4 unit to do a side by side comparison of them. I should have made the guy an offe ron his steel retainer as he has it too, but I didn't think to do that.
I'm still trying to figure out if I can swap the NWC AMC tailhousing onto the Ford WC trans. Good news is D&D performce rates the trans at 330 ft-lbs so I should be good to go with a troker if I ever get the time to do one.
I have a 3:31 rear axle with twingrip and 255/60/15 tires and second gear in the AMC is like 2:40 or 2:50-1 and I can pullout with no problem in second now even on the hills around here. So I should be good to go with the 2:95 trans.
I'm thinking if I have to stay with the Ford shifter setup. I may just send the trans to D&D and have them replace the cluster with a new one of theirs so it remains a comlpete D&D trans.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Mark, Not sure exactly what combo of parts you will end up with but I can
> tell you I ended up using a Mustang 10-1/2" 1-1/16" diameter 10 spline
> clutch disc with an AMC 11" Borg and Beck style pressure plate for my T5
> setup. My T5 has the 1-1/16" 10 spline input shaft. So far works great. Some
> day I plan on getting a stronger clutch disc and pressure plate but I will
> have to buy them individually, as I haven't located a kit for this
> application yet.
> I know a guy who tried to use the AMC 1-1/8" dia. 10 spline stuff on the
> mustang 1-1/16" shaft and didn't like it. It chattered alot.
> I suggest using a GM steel input shaft/throwout cover. Or you can machine a
> steel Ford input cover to fit the AMC bell housing which is what I did. I
> had the length and diameter matched to the input cover of a SR-4 four speed.
> I strongly suggest dumping the trash ford shifter for a B&M or equivalent
> shifter. You will like it much better. I used a B&M Pro shifter and it is
> very positive about gear shifting. The shifter base plate sits right up
> there through the tunnel floor and looks awesome too. I bought a T5 rebuild
> video from Hanlon Motorsports http://www.hanlonmotorsports.com/ and a
> rebuild kit. I talked with Bob Hanlon a couple times too when I encountered
> trouble. Bob is a great guy and very willing to help out. The T5 completely
> transformed by Javelin!!! That old Borg Warner 3 sped automatic sucked so
> much power that the car was a dog. Now with the T5 and 2:87 axle the car
> really responds and will burn rubber forever. My T5 has the 3:35 first gear.
> It launches pretty well, except it really burns rubber if I give it too much
> throttle. New rubber will cure some of that for me. You may want 3:54 rear
> gears for the 2.95 version or ?. The guy I know who has 3:54 rear gears with
> 3:35 first gear doesn't like that combo at all, too low first gear. The .63
> overdrive 5th gear gets me a low cruising rpm.
>
> Armand
>
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 11:57:03 -0400
From: Wayne E LaMothe <superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Forged steel AMC cranks
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060703.115703.2428.0.superglider@xxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
IIRC they got 418 out of the 327. One of these days I will finish the
adapter plates for mounting the torker on the 327.
Wayne
Wayne & Lisa (Skeezix), Bolton Landing, NY,
http://www.superglider.thinkhost.com/
AMO#8454, 83 Eagle Limited Wagon, 82 SX/4, 258 auto
69 Ambo coupe, 401, M12, 66 Ambo 990 Wagon, 327,PW,PB,PS,posi,AM/FM,AC
88 Jeep J10 360, auto- a Real truck
2001 Cherokee, 2000 Chrysler Cirrus (both hers)
On Mon, 3 Jul 2006 8:46:51 -0700 Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
writes:
> I forget how much you can get, but the rod hitting the block or
> bottom of the piston is usually the limiting factor :]
> Don't try this at home!
> If I had the money I'd love to have a 327 cranck done so I could
> really replicate the Bill Kraft Rambler!
> --
> Mark Price
> markprice242ATadelphia.net
> Morgantown, WV
>
>
> ---- Armand Eshleman <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> > I found a machinist that alters existing cranks by welding
> additional
> > material onto the rod journals in a strategic location using a
> submerged arc
> > method. Watched as he proceeded to drastically lengthen the stroke
> of a two
> > cylinder tractor engine. It was almost half the rod journal
> diameter. The
> > antique tractor pullers love their stroked engines too! He
> straightens the
> > cranks and machines them too. He has an induction hardening
> machine. Not
> > sure if that works on cranks. Any way I was impressed!
> > Wondered how well this would do on an AMC forged 390 or 401 crank.
> How much
> > displacement could a guy end up with??
> >
> > Armand
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > AMC-List mailing list
> > AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> >
> > or go to http://www.amc-list.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.amc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 10:24:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Bailey <route66rambler@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Motor Mounts on the six
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060703172421.44558.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Joe and all:
I have had the drivetrain in and out of Molly five
times in recent months, and r&r with two other
Gremlins as well. One time I had a real devil of a
time in Molly(74 Gremlin 258) with new motor mounts
and trans mount. After it was in, for some reason the
fan would just tip the shroud for some reason over
good road bumps. It turned out that somehow in my
late night session, I had switched the mounting
plates(i.e. wrong side for passenger and driver side).
Each side is unique, but can be bolted in backwards,
tilting the back of the motor up higher than it
belongs. VOILA' fan hits shroud at bottom. As far as
the easy way to mount the motor, bolt the plates to
the rubber cushions(I'm not sure it makes any
difference on the little hinge part or L-shaped part,
I think it just goes down for access to the middle
bolt on the mounting plate). Take the mount assembly,
and put it through the crossmember. Loosely apply the
mouning nuts from under the crossmember. Maybe 4-5
turns. Then lower the motor between the plates, and
usually one side will line up first. Start the plate
bolts slightly(Just a few threads). You may have to
use a drift or screwdriver to get it to line up, but
be patient and work alternately on each side of the
car, and you'll be able to start all six pretty quick.
Then tighten the plates. Lower the motor onto the
crossmember. Then mount the trans crossmember and
tighten the cushion. Finally tighten the engine
crossmember nuts.
mike
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 12:52:08 -0500
From: Jock J Jocewicz <namdra@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Race Gremlin Info Needed
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <20060703.125209.-16498013.4.NAMDRA@xxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Received this message, can anyone help him out?
>Hello. I currently own a 1970 or 1971 Gremlin drag car. The car at one
time was white with little star like things on the hood. It has a 4 link
and wishbone and is a custom built chassis. The body and doors are acid
dipped and the front clip and dash are fiberglass. I am guessing it is
an old pro stock? Anyway, it is now green and called the Grem Reeper. I
am trying to find history on the car. The guy I bought it from said it
was built in Cinncinati, Ohio. Any ideas who I might call or check with
on this cool old drag car? Thank you, Dean Skaflen dskaflen@xxxxxxx>
Jock Jocewicz - President/Editor NAMDRA NAMDRA@xxxxxxxx
8537 Antioch Rd., Salem, WI 53168 (262) 843-4326
JOIN NAMDRA, the best AMC club around!!!
'06 AMC NATIONALS - SEP. 14-16, 2006 - CORDOVA DRAGWAY PARK, CORDOVA, IL
AMO#19, NAMDRA#46, AMCRC#974, NHRA#41915, IHRA#6766
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 13:57:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] D&D transmissions? T-5 questions
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200607031757.k63Hvpd28026@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" I'm still trying to figure out if I can swap the NWC AMC tailhousing onto the Ford WC trans.
folks swap the chevy s-10 tailshaft housing onto the mustang box all
the time, but while most all s-10s were nwc the last two years ['94-5]
used -ford-pattern- cases and may have had other changes, like wc
internals.
" Good news is D&D performce rates the trans at 330 ft-lbs so I should be good to go with a stroker if I ever get the time to do one.
sounds like the ford svt '7003z' tranny.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 13:59:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] best oil filter for a 390?
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: fastested@xxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200607031759.k63HxoV28085@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" Ed is asking a interesting question, as I have heard all sorts of stuff about Fram, but I personally quit using Fram Oil Filters many years ago. Some of the stuff I have heard and read involve the Fram filters coming apart inside and/or collapsing. anyone care to comment? Ed will be reading this thread, feel free to also copy your reply to him, might help him make a good decision on what to put on his 390! Thanks in advance to all who might reply.
"
" ----- Original Message -----
" From: ed forfa fastested@xxxxxxxxx
" Need to know the best available oil filter for my 1968 390 cu in V8 AMC
"
" Need to change oil & filter .
it's been a while since i looked, but ac delco consistently won all
the comparisons for quality, filtration ability, etc.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 14:06:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Forged steel AMC cranks
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200607031806.k63I6ZK28136@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
" From: "Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
"
" I found a machinist that alters existing cranks by welding additional
" material onto the rod journals in a strategic location using a submerged arc
" method.
this is the way all strokers were done well into the '60s, before the
performance aftermarket took off and made custom billets, castings,
and forgings affordable.
" Watched as he proceeded to drastically lengthen the stroke of a two
" cylinder tractor engine. It was almost half the rod journal diameter. The
" antique tractor pullers love their stroked engines too! He straightens the
" cranks and machines them too. He has an induction hardening machine. Not
" sure if that works on cranks. Any way I was impressed!
it should. dunno if you'd have to check straightness afterwards.
" Wondered how well this would do on an AMC forged 390 or 401 crank. How much
" displacement could a guy end up with??
crankcase clearance would be your enemy, rods to cylinder bottoms,
crank to cam, crank to oil pan rails...
just occurred to me - with the similarity of bore spacing [4.75" iirc]
you might be able to take a mopar b/rb raw forging and finish it to
amc specs. mp sells off-the-shelf 4.15" cranks...
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay the genius nature
internet rambler is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 2006 11:26:10 -0700
From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] D&D transmissions? T-5 questions
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<23612768.1151951170282.JavaMail.root@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
Thanks, That's what I've read to, but sometimes things make me nervous.
I know I can fix the box myself. I can't finish the build untill I drop the trans from the Amercian. I've done some serious looking for an AMC two wheel drive trans core to use for parts and I have had no success so far. The only one I know of is the one in my car! My spare trans is a T-4, Rats.
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV
---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> " From: Mark Price <markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> "
> " I'm still trying to figure out if I can swap the NWC AMC tailhousing onto the Ford WC trans.
>
> folks swap the chevy s-10 tailshaft housing onto the mustang box all
> the time, but while most all s-10s were nwc the last two years ['94-5]
> used -ford-pattern- cases and may have had other changes, like wc
> internals.
>
> " Good news is D&D performce rates the trans at 330 ft-lbs so I should be good to go with a stroker if I ever get the time to do one.
>
> sounds like the ford svt '7003z' tranny.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay the genius nature
> internet rambler is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
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>
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com
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End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 6, Issue 6
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