[AMC-List] Interesting PCV fix/re-route for late V8's! Gates #21784

[Jesse <j2sax@xxxxxxxxx>]

Fade to past- I have been chasing down a series of oil
leaks that did not seem to end. First it was my fuel
pump gasket, then the valve cover, then the oil
pressure switch, and finally the intake which really
started POURING after a 70 MPH run.  These on an 86
J10.  
 
ANYWAY, the PCV valve always sounded and felt fine,
however, I thought I would check for vacuum leaks
(DON'T STOP READING IF YOU THINK YOU KNOW WHERE THIS
IS GOING!). Sure enough the air cleaner was AGAIN
filled with oil. Found that the vacuum hoses running
to the evap cannister were SHOT, both from the PCV and
the Carb bowl. 
 
On AMC V8's the oil filler cap is the air filter for
your PCV intake. That's why you don't find the little
foam element in the air cleaner like the 258's and
many older cars have. After 20 years mine was SOLID
inside. I could still blow through it (do NOT try
sucking on it!) but when compared with the new one
(available through Dorman/Master at any parts store)
it was night and day. If you are still running your
AMC V8 OE oil cap, CHANGE IT! 
 
I then discover that the hose to the intake (large)
side of the PCV was about 2 sizes too big and the
small one was corroded! The PCV system requires good
vacuum to operate properly and mine did NOT have it! 
I am sure the reason for the mismatched hose was the
PO had so much trouble getting the PCV in position.
This applies to later model 360's, (older ones just
have the PCV sticking out of a rubber grommet in the
intake) but there is a TON of stuff between the intake
manifold tube and the carb base where the PCV hooks
up. There are two intake vacuum nipples, the EGR
valve, accel cable bracket and the PCV is longer than
the old style as it has an adapter for an Evap Can
vacuum line. No matter how you try to line up the
manifold tube and the carb inlet it is a ROYAL PAIN
and it is still difficult to get the hose on without
kinking or getting in the way of something else. 
 
It appeared that by pointing the tube towards the
firewall, I could loop back around to the carb and get
around the obstacles as well as make it easier to get
to other hoses in back of the intake. The really
correct way to do this would be to replace the short
metal intake mani tube with a longer one that you
could bend towards the firewall, around the EGR and
point directly at the back of the carb. I did not have
time for bending tube and flaring ends. Trying to loop
the hoses was too tight and caused "kinkiness" (yes,
HAHA).
 
I went to O'Reilly's and they let me walk around to
ponder the formed hoses. Jerry (I told him I would
mention his name!) pointed out a little hose (Gates #
21784) that almost looked like a shallow "V" and was
the right size for the PCV. It was RIGHT ON THE MONEY!
I pointed the stock tube towards the driver's side of
the firewall and when I put the Gates hose on it
pointed almost directly at the back of the carb. There
was no strain anywhere in either hose and it really
cleans up the rear and psngr side of the intake. Try
it you'll like it! 
 
Here's the whole process. At the psngr side rear of
the intake, gently, bungee the heater hose and wiring
harness up out of the way and disconnect the wires
from the heater box. I am sure it is easier with the
heater hose removed, but I did not have time for that.
First remove the intake tube (a short 3/4 open end
wrench will make it easier). My tube was stuck in the
fitting so I soaked it with Deep Creep and it was
loose in minutes.  Once the tube is removed use a
15/16 socket to remove the brass fitting for the tube
at the manifold as it is probably loose and losing
vacuum. None of this is fun due to a lack of room ,
however, it is much easier putting this all back
together after the Mod, so don't get too discouraged
when you are struggling to remove it!
 
Clean the fitting inside and out then re-install with
some teflon tape. (not too tight... it is brass!) T
tape and then start the threads for the intake
manifold tube with the tube pointing off center
towards the drivers side of the firewall. As always
with compression fittings, you should have two
wrenches, one for the fitting (15/16) and one for the
tube (3/4... both wrenches the shorter the better!)
Before you completely tighten it down, trial fit
everything together. Tighten it up and you are ready
to go!  Hope this helps.. my oil leaks are GONE, THANK
YOU LORD!
 
Do well... maybe I'll see you in Denver this weekend
as I put another 1500 miles on an 86  J10 rescued from
a barn! Asking a lot of a truck that was resurrected
after 8 years of sitting but after 14,000 miles of
trips to CO, Chicago, Kenosha, TX, etc... MOST of them
towing a car or Jeep there or back, I think I can say
she's used to it! I have never done anything but
change fluids and a caliper, so it's about time I get
down and actually maintain this blessing! 
 
Jesse


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