AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 3
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 3



Send AMC-List mailing list submissions to
	amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	amc-list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxx

You can reach the person managing the list at
	amc-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxx

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of AMC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips)
      (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
   2. Re: Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips) (farna@xxxxxxx)
   3. Re: Seat Covers 1970 buckets (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
   4. Re: Two Requests (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
   5. Re: Seat Covers 1970 buckets (farna@xxxxxxx)
   6. How to send plain text mess. through hotmail or msn....
      (William Renshaw)
   7. Door hinges...... (William Renshaw)
   8. 1970 390 tuneup specs (Robert Cloud)
   9. Re: Two Requests (Sandwich Maker)
  10. 85 Eagle auto drivetrain FS, Detroit area (msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx)
  11. Picked up a new project (Nick ALFANO)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 8:34:10 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Cc: farna@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <9412767.1146497650480.JavaMail.root@web11>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

If the pitman doesn't work out I'd investigate a rack before massively reworking the steering linkage. If the pitman arm is the same length, you should be able to work around different size tapers with adapter shim or having the cenetrlink reamed out to match the Pitman. Be carefull if you do this that the pitman is the same length as your idler. Things get strange real quick if the don't match! Lots of toe change going around corners! You don't want that! I have a 67 American linkage stil together in a pile in my shed if measurements from it are needed. Not for sale though! It's off a 43,000 mile car and is mine for future use!-
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- farna@xxxxxxx wrote: 
> Easy one first -- the original shift rods had a washer on each side of the grommet and a cotter pin holding the rods in. I use a "hairpin" instead because it's easier to install and remove. 
> 
> Now for the PS. There is just enough room to fit a modern steering box. I used one on a 63 Classic, but have owned enough of the 61-63 Americans to be very familiar with them. At least one of the lower holes on the modern Saginaw box will align with one of the original steering box holes. The others will have to be drilled. In my Classic the uppermost mounting hole on the box was just above the "frame" rail. I used a piece of 1/2" conduit as a spacer and drilled the hole just above the rail in the inner fender wall. The original steering shaft will have to the cut from the original steering box and a piece welded to the end for mounting a "rag joint". If you get a collapsing shaft from a late 80s GM rear drive car (GP, Monte Carlo, Regal) the shaft can be cut and weled with at least 2" of the collapsible tube used for adjusting the length. I'd do this BEFORE the new holes for the steering box are made. The box needs to be mounted at the right angle for the shaft.
> 
> Mounting the box is the easy part. I'm not sure if the pitman arm from the original box will fit the shaft of the new power box. If it does you're all set (I don't think it does, but you might be able to adapt it). If not, you'll have to modify a Concord (et. al.) drag link and change the inner tie rod ends and idler arm to the newer style. That will entail cutting the Concord drag link and welding. If you can find a piece of tubing with an inner diameter the same as the outer of the drag link short pieces can be used as sleeves, making the cutting and welding pretty simple. It's not a bad idea to replace the drag link anyway. That old spring buffered link makes for very vague steering! I always tightened mine down as much as I could just short of causing it to bind and even used washers as shims in one. The springs get pretty weak over time. 
> 
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Independent 
> Magazine" (AIM)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
> (free download available!)
> 
> original message ------------------------------------
> 
> From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [AMC-List] Two Requests
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
> (pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
>  He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
> install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
> box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
> came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
> What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
> so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
> local mechanic to make the switch.
> 
> Second, I am trying to put a 64 classic 660 back on
> the road.  It has manual transmission with overdrive
> and column shifter.  I replaced the steering column
> and shifter today, because the old one had been
> vandalized and was not connected to the shift levers. 
> Does anyone have the clips that fasten the shift rods
> into the column grommets?  Do you know what these are
> supposed to look like?  I can check local hardware
> sources for something that will work, but I would like
> the factory correct parts.
> 
> Thanks, 
> Joe Fulton
> Salinas, CA
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 15:48:30 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips)
To: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx, amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<050120061548.28145.44562DCE0006170A00006DF121604666480E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

Let's not even THINK about a rack on a narrow 58-63 American! It was a lot of trouble on my 63 Classic, and I doubt I'd do it again. The little American is so narrow that it would require a lot more work and a special "hot rod" rack made for 30's cars. That's why the steering arms curl out over the drums on the little Americans from the factory -- the width and wheelbase require it for correct placement of the outer tie rod ends for proper steering geometry (Ackerman angle). Only 15" or larger wheels will fit because of this. A rack would require shorter arms which can't be used because the outer tie rod ends would need to be where the brake backing plate or rotor is. well, you might be able to use a 1/2" spacer between the spindle and steering knuckle to gain clearance, but that could change the steering geometry in other ways. Hmmm... a Concord pitman and idler arm will introduce some issues also. Hopefully the original arm will fit a steering box. I got my original 63 Cla!
 ssic ar
m to fit, but it required a shim.

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent 
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> If the pitman doesn't work out I'd investigate a rack before massively reworking 
> the steering linkage. If the pitman arm is the same length, you should be able 
> to work around different size tapers with adapter shim or having the cenetrlink 
> reamed out to match the Pitman. Be carefull if you do this that the pitman is 
> the same length as your idler. Things get strange real quick if the don't match! 
> Lots of toe change going around corners! You don't want that! I have a 67 
> American linkage stil together in a pile in my shed if measurements from it are 
> needed. Not for sale though! It's off a 43,000 mile car and is mine for future 
> use!-
> Mark Price
> markprice242ATadelphia.net
> Morgantown, WV
> 
> 
> ---- farna@xxxxxxx wrote: 
> > Easy one first -- the original shift rods had a washer on each side of the 
> grommet and a cotter pin holding the rods in. I use a "hairpin" instead because 
> it's easier to install and remove. 
> > 
> > Now for the PS. There is just enough room to fit a modern steering box. I used 
> one on a 63 Classic, but have owned enough of the 61-63 Americans to be very 
> familiar with them. At least one of the lower holes on the modern Saginaw box 
> will align with one of the original steering box holes. The others will have to 
> be drilled. In my Classic the uppermost mounting hole on the box was just above 
> the "frame" rail. I used a piece of 1/2" conduit as a spacer and drilled the 
> hole just above the rail in the inner fender wall. The original steering shaft 
> will have to the cut from the original steering box and a piece welded to the 
> end for mounting a "rag joint". If you get a collapsing shaft from a late 80s GM 
> rear drive car (GP, Monte Carlo, Regal) the shaft can be cut and weled with at 
> least 2" of the collapsible tube used for adjusting the length. I'd do this 
> BEFORE the new holes for the steering box are made. The box needs to be mounted 
> at the right angle for the shaft.
> > 
> > Mounting the box is the easy part. I'm not sure if the pitman arm from the 
> original box will fit the shaft of the new power box. If it does you're all set 
> (I don't think it does, but you might be able to adapt it). If not, you'll have 
> to modify a Concord (et. al.) drag link and change the inner tie rod ends and 
> idler arm to the newer style. That will entail cutting the Concord drag link and 
> welding. If you can find a piece of tubing with an inner diameter the same as 
> the outer of the drag link short pieces can be used as sleeves, making the 
> cutting and welding pretty simple. It's not a bad idea to replace the drag link 
> anyway. That old spring buffered link makes for very vague steering! I always 
> tightened mine down as much as I could just short of causing it to bind and even 
> used washers as shims in one. The springs get pretty weak over time. 
> > 
> > --
> > Frank Swygert
> > Publisher, "American Independent 
> > Magazine" (AIM)
> > For all AMC enthusiasts
> > http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
> > (free download available!)
> > 
> > original message ------------------------------------
> > 
> > From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [AMC-List] Two Requests
> > To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > 
> > First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
> > (pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
> >  He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
> > install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
> > box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
> > came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
> > What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
> > so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
> > local mechanic to make the switch.
> > 
> > Second, I am trying to put a 64 classic 660 back on
> > the road.  It has manual transmission with overdrive
> > and column shifter.  I replaced the steering column
> > and shifter today, because the old one had been
> > vandalized and was not connected to the shift levers. 
> > Does anyone have the clips that fasten the shift rods
> > into the column grommets?  Do you know what these are
> > supposed to look like?  I can check local hardware
> > sources for something that will work, but I would like
> > the factory correct parts.
> > 
> > Thanks, 
> > Joe Fulton
> > Salinas, CA
> > _______________________________________________
> > AMC-List mailing list
> > AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> > 
> > or go to http://www.amc-list.com
> 




------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 8:51:18 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Seat Covers 1970 buckets
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Cc: farna@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <12614739.1146498678940.JavaMail.root@web11>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I used these on the American and have used them in the past.
 I've not been impressed with the Vinyls as the seams are heat melted and look cheap [IMHO]. The tweed vinyl combo in my American now, I like except for the vinyl piping on the front 95 Ranger buckets I'm using. They picked asrange way to do this and I'm not wild about it, but at the time it was all I could afford. They are holding up well. I would use the tweed again. Frank is right about them being slightly over sized. To build up the back I would use either foam pad or even carpet pad as it is fairly stiff and rigid and would hold shape better. I always take th e old covers off and use foam to build the seats up till I get the look I'm after. I feel that leaving the old cover sin place is just asking for them to wear thru the new covers, especially if they are vinyl and old and have hard rough cracked edges and torn piping.
  If you are JC whitneying them, I suggest going to Autocraft directly. The price is the same or close, but they are very good, [or have been in the past] people to work with and they will give you many options JC won't, plus they will send out samples and will do some fairly complex mix and matching. I have top of the line front covers on my 95 Ranger buckets in my American and bare bones bottom of the line cover on the stock 69 rear seat. [IMHO] the plain cover on the rear seat looks better than the fancy covers I got on the front! I even bought extra yardage and made my own flat tweed door panels. Last note, Get extra Hogrings!!!! They never give you enough! I called them after I ran out and they sent me more free!

Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- farna@xxxxxxx wrote: 
> John, I used Autocraft covers on 1974 or so Matador "Individual Reclining" seats with hard shell backs. I seem to recall that the covers went OVER the hard shells, but that was a long time ago. If AJ is "listening" he might remember the car as he did some work on it for the next owner. I do recall that the covers had the back done in the same material as the rest of the cover. I don't clearly recall if I pulled them over the back or put the plastic back on over the cover, but I think it was over the back. That just makes sense -- otherwise you couldn't change colors in the interior very easy. If the backs are missing the covers won't fit very tight without something to take their place. All Autocraft covers are designed to pull snugly over the existing upholstery, so leaving the carpet should be a good idea. 
> 
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Independent 
> Magazine" (AIM)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
> (free download available!)
> 
> original message -----------------------------
> 
> Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 19:15:16 -0400
> From: "John" <marq@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [AMC-List] Seat Covers 1970 buckets
> 
> 
> I don't have the plastic shells for the buckets on my 70 Ambo, they were long gone before I bought the car.  I am looking for a low cost recover 


------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 8:57:48 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <11486187.1146499068330.JavaMail.root@web11>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Isn't one of those small boxes a bolt in replacement for the early manual boxes? I'd think maybe even the pitman interchanges
  You can get them new and rebuilt from a lot of the rodshops. They can probably even help figure out what may bolt in. I think they now make "spear of death" replacement stuff for the Chevy II's maybe they could help finger it out!
I've also gathered info by crossreferencing web pages to see what matches up from car to car.-
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> " From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> " 
> " First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
> " (pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
> "  He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
> " install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
> " box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
> " came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
> " What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
> " so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
> " local mechanic to make the switch.
> 
> on all the later cars until the early '70s at least - and i assume on
> these also - the setup required the adapter plate to mount the big
> saginaw 700 ps gear to the manual-gear bolt pattern on the frame.  you
> also need a two-piece steering column shaft with a coupling flange,
> and of course the ps pump, pulleys, and brackets for the engine.
> 
> this might be an excellent situation to use the smaller saginaw 605 ps
> gear from a chevy vega, as it has the manual-box mounting pattern
> right off.  it's very popular with the '50s chevy rod crowd for this
> reason.
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
> internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
> adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 16:02:28 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Seat Covers 1970 buckets
To: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx, amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<050120061602.17852.445631130002E78B000045BC21604666480E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

I have to second Mark on the not using over the originals, unless the originals are in fairly good condition. I covered the Matador seats because they weren't the color I needed. The seats themselves were in fair, but faded, condition. No tears or anything. I got the tweed and vinyl covers for my 63 before I replaced the original bench seat with buckets. The piping around the original bench was broken in several places on the backs. These edges wore through the tweed in about a year, but I use my car as a daily driver -- back and forth to work daily, not as a spare or good weather only driver. The bottom was bad enough I had to remove the original cover and used a piece of 1/2" foam over the cushion. The only caveat to removing the original cover is there will be some open spaces around the back hinge. I just took some small pieces of vinyl that were close to the same color (the vinyl/tweed covers have tweed where you sit, vinyl around the sides and on the back) and used duc!
 t tape 
and a few hog rings to hold it in place while I pulled the Autocraft cover over it. That worked just fine and looked good too. 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent 
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> I used these on the American and have used them in the past.
>  I've not been impressed with the Vinyls as the seams are heat melted and look 
> cheap [IMHO]. The tweed vinyl combo in my American now, I like except for the 
> vinyl piping on the front 95 Ranger buckets I'm using. They picked asrange way 
> to do this and I'm not wild about it, but at the time it was all I could afford. 
> They are holding up well. I would use the tweed again. Frank is right about them 
> being slightly over sized. To build up the back I would use either foam pad or 
> even carpet pad as it is fairly stiff and rigid and would hold shape better. I 
> always take th e old covers off and use foam to build the seats up till I get 
> the look I'm after. I feel that leaving the old cover sin place is just asking 
> for them to wear thru the new covers, especially if they are vinyl and old and 
> have hard rough cracked edges and torn piping.
>   If you are JC whitneying them, I suggest going to Autocraft directly. The 
> price is the same or close, but they are very good, [or have been in the past] 
> people to work with and they will give you many options JC won't, plus they will 
> send out samples and will do some fairly complex mix and matching. I have top of 
> the line front covers on my 95 Ranger buckets in my American and bare bones 
> bottom of the line cover on the stock 69 rear seat. [IMHO] the plain cover on 
> the rear seat looks better than the fancy covers I got on the front! I even 
> bought extra yardage and made my own flat tweed door panels. Last note, Get 
> extra Hogrings!!!! They never give you enough! I called them after I ran out and 
> they sent me more free!
> 
> Mark Price
> markprice242ATadelphia.net
> Morgantown, WV
> 


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 09:26:44 -0700
From: "William Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] How to send plain text mess. through hotmail or
	msn....
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY105-F1320EC8DE5D340DF1C3398C5B10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

That was a really good idea that someone asked me to post so that anyone who 
has hotmail or msn on how to post plain text. ( I just whished I would of 
thought of it myself!!)
You have to disable the rich-text editor and one way that is done through 
the mail page.
1. On the mail page, click on "NEW" drop-down and then select "mail message"
2. Click on the "tools" drop down menu and then select on "rich-text editor 
"OFF" to deactivate the rich-text editor.
To do it though the mail options
1. Click the "options' link at the upper right side of the "mail page"
2. From the mail options list, click on "personal signature" link
3. Remove the check mark on the check box beside the "show the rich-text 
toolbar".
4. Click OK to save the changes.
Hope that will help those who need to turn the crap off! Its simple and easy 
and a non computer guy like can do it....anyone can.



Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
AKA Brother B.
AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.
1973 Gremlin X "clone" (project)
1970 Original Hornet "plain jane"
1974 Matador Coupe "Parts car"




------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 09:35:24 -0700
From: "William Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Door hinges......
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY105-F23C4D520DEF053F10FAFC8C5B10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed


Are the door hinges on all small bodied AMC cars the same? Can I swap the 
door hinges from my Matador parts car to my Gremlin? I have "tried" to 
rebuild a pair on time on an Eagle that I had and to say the least...not 
only was it a pain, they didnt last very long. They wore out with in a 
couple of months. Dont know if I did somthing wrong when I did the pins and 
bushings thing or what, but they where the same as it was before I tried to 
rebuild them. The hinges off of the Matador are in really good shape and 
those big doors have no sag in them at all and I would like to use them on 
my Gremlin. I know AMC did alot of "money saving things and ideas" So I 
would think (dangerous thing for me to do....sometimes!) that they are all 
the same. I would just like to know before I go and tear off the doors to my 
Mattie.  Any responce is grealty appreciated and welcomed!


Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
AKA Brother B.
AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.
1973 Gremlin X "clone" (project)
1970 Original Hornet "plain jane"
1974 Matador Coupe "Parts car"




------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 16:50:07 +0000
From: "Robert Cloud" <runrmc@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] 1970 390 tuneup specs
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <BAY102-W2CCF4B619295CFB610B86DAB10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I recently bought a 1970 Ambassador with the 390 engine.
I've been reading through the discussions on plugs, etc.
I am in the process doing a complete tuneup on the car,
and I am asking what plugs, timing setting, etc have others
used to tune their cars for today's fuel.

Thanks,

Bob
_________________________________________________________________
Join the next generation of Hotmail and you could win the adventure of a lifetime
http://www.imagine-msn.com/minisites/sweepstakes/mail/register.aspx


------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 12:18:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200605011618.k41GIJu24238@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

" From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
" 
" Isn't one of those small boxes a bolt in replacement for the early
" manual boxes? I'd think maybe even the pitman interchanges

i believe so, and a major reason for the rodder popularity.

"   You can get them new and rebuilt from a lot of the rodshops. They
" can probably even help figure out what may bolt in. I think they now
" make "spear of death" replacement stuff for the Chevy II's maybe they
" could help finger it out!

yup.  they can also help you with steering ratios, though iirc the
vega box was never offered with anything nearly as fast as the 12:1
available on the bigger boxes.

" ---- Sandwich Maker <adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
" > " From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
" > " 
" > " First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
" > " (pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
" > "  He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
" > " install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
" > " box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
" > " came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
" > " What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
" > " so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
" > " local mechanic to make the switch.
" > 
" > []
" > 
" > this might be an excellent situation to use the smaller saginaw 605 ps
" > gear from a chevy vega, as it has the manual-box mounting pattern
" > right off.  it's very popular with the '50s chevy rod crowd for this
" > reason.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought


------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 18:08:41 +0000
From: msproviero@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] 85 Eagle auto drivetrain FS, Detroit area
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<050120061808.17525.44564EA90001BBB3000044752205889116019D0A0790019D9F9C03@xxxxxxxxxxx>
	
Content-Type: text/plain

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?p=122445#post122445

One of the guys on our 4x4 site has what he describes as TF-999 connected to an 85 Eagle transfer case (no low range) for $100.  I have no idea if this trans and t-case are supposed to go together or are the original pair - I'm just passing it along.

He didn't post any direct contact information, so you can only contact him via PM's if you take a few minutes to register (just creat a login and password).  However, I did ask for his phone and email - I'll post it up when I get it.

-Spro 

------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 11:21:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Nick ALFANO <71amx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Picked up a new project
To: amc list <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <20060501182157.98940.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

yesterday I went to a huge farm auction and in the
barn were a few cars and trucks.  Some of which in my
opinion were not anything to be excited about like a
late 70s L82 Corvette that looked like the guy jumped
it Dukes of Hazard style.  The whole front nose was
all out of wack, frame looked to be bent bad, the
paint was terrible, cracks in the gelcoat, interior
was beat yet some guy bid up to $4200 for it just
because it was a Corvette.  No one even knew for sure
what year it was.  Guys were saying anywhere from a
71(any car guys knows the difference between an early
70s and a late 70s vette)to an 82. Any way, the one
that caught my eye was a 1942 1&1/2 ton Chevy Dual
rear wheel truck.  The truck is very solid and was one
that was made right at the start of the war and held
over until it was delivered in Aug of 43.  It only has
50,000 original miles on it and it runs and drives.  I
have never ventured out into the old truck market so
this one is new to me.  I will have to do some
research on it. As far as AMC content goes, I have
always wanted to put an AMC engine in a Chevy vehicle.
 This one just might get that transplant if I decide
to go the street rod route with it.  I would love to
see the look on a Chevy guys face when I tell him it
has an AMC 401 in it.

There was also a 1923 Model T Speedster there.  It
sold for $4100, a Model A, 56 Chevy wagon and a 65
Mustang convertible.

Nick Alfano
Alfano Performance
Kenosha, WI. 53142
262-942-8271 after 6pm Central and weekends
262-308-1302



------------------------------

_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list


End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 3
**************************************


Home Back to the Home of the AMC Gremlin 


This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated