Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips)

[markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx]

If the pitman doesn't work out I'd investigate a rack before massively reworking the steering linkage. If the pitman arm is the same length, you should be able to work around different size tapers with adapter shim or having the cenetrlink reamed out to match the Pitman. Be carefull if you do this that the pitman is the same length as your idler. Things get strange real quick if the don't match! Lots of toe change going around corners! You don't want that! I have a 67 American linkage stil together in a pile in my shed if measurements from it are needed. Not for sale though! It's off a 43,000 mile car and is mine for future use!-
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- farna@xxxxxxx wrote: 
> Easy one first -- the original shift rods had a washer on each side of the grommet and a cotter pin holding the rods in. I use a "hairpin" instead because it's easier to install and remove. 
> 
> Now for the PS. There is just enough room to fit a modern steering box. I used one on a 63 Classic, but have owned enough of the 61-63 Americans to be very familiar with them. At least one of the lower holes on the modern Saginaw box will align with one of the original steering box holes. The others will have to be drilled. In my Classic the uppermost mounting hole on the box was just above the "frame" rail. I used a piece of 1/2" conduit as a spacer and drilled the hole just above the rail in the inner fender wall. The original steering shaft will have to the cut from the original steering box and a piece welded to the end for mounting a "rag joint". If you get a collapsing shaft from a late 80s GM rear drive car (GP, Monte Carlo, Regal) the shaft can be cut and weled with at least 2" of the collapsible tube used for adjusting the length. I'd do this BEFORE the new holes for the steering box are made. The box needs to be mounted at the right angle for the shaft.
> 
> Mounting the box is the easy part. I'm not sure if the pitman arm from the original box will fit the shaft of the new power box. If it does you're all set (I don't think it does, but you might be able to adapt it). If not, you'll have to modify a Concord (et. al.) drag link and change the inner tie rod ends and idler arm to the newer style. That will entail cutting the Concord drag link and welding. If you can find a piece of tubing with an inner diameter the same as the outer of the drag link short pieces can be used as sleeves, making the cutting and welding pretty simple. It's not a bad idea to replace the drag link anyway. That old spring buffered link makes for very vague steering! I always tightened mine down as much as I could just short of causing it to bind and even used washers as shims in one. The springs get pretty weak over time. 
> 
> --
> Frank Swygert
> Publisher, "American Independent 
> Magazine" (AIM)
> For all AMC enthusiasts
> http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
> (free download available!)
> 
> original message ------------------------------------
> 
> From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [AMC-List] Two Requests
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
> (pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
>  He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
> install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
> box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
> came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
> What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
> so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
> local mechanic to make the switch.
> 
> Second, I am trying to put a 64 classic 660 back on
> the road.  It has manual transmission with overdrive
> and column shifter.  I replaced the steering column
> and shifter today, because the old one had been
> vandalized and was not connected to the shift levers. 
> Does anyone have the clips that fasten the shift rods
> into the column grommets?  Do you know what these are
> supposed to look like?  I can check local hardware
> sources for something that will work, but I would like
> the factory correct parts.
> 
> Thanks, 
> Joe Fulton
> Salinas, CA
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