AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 2

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Today's Topics:

   1. This is a test of my hotmail account.... (William Renshaw)
   2. Re: This is a test of my hotmail account....
      (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
   3. Re: More valve cover woes (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
   4. Re: Navarro Indy turbo setup... in a Hornet
      (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)
   5. Valve covers are a bitch!!!! (William Renshaw)
   6. Re: More Valve Cover Woes (John Elle)
   7. Re: This is a test of my hotmail account.... (Sandwich Maker)
   8. Re: Two Requests (Sandwich Maker)
   9. (no subject) (farna@xxxxxxx)
  10. Re: Seat Covers 1970 buckets (farna@xxxxxxx)
  11. Re: Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips) (farna@xxxxxxx)
  12. Re: Spelling (Jeff & Caroline)
  13. Restoring A Plastic Emblem With Modeling Skills (Nick ALFANO)
  14. Re: Spelling (markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 05:31:59 -0700
From: "William Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] This is a test of my hotmail account....
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY105-F265B90FF707A80D51E2260C5B10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

I finally got a hold of someone from MSN and they told me how to turn of the 
fancy text stuff. SO, I am doing a little test to see if it works or not. If 
not, I will go use my yahoo account. Will someone please let me know if it 
works or not...Thanks!!!!!!!



Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
AKA Brother B.
AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.




------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 5:35:30 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] This is a test of my hotmail account....
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Cc: William Renshaw <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <6236530.1146486930987.JavaMail.root@web18>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

It looks swell to me!--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- William Renshaw <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> I finally got a hold of someone from MSN and they told me how to turn of the 
> fancy text stuff. SO, I am doing a little test to see if it works or not. If 
> not, I will go use my yahoo account. Will someone please let me know if it 
> works or not...Thanks!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
> AKA Brother B.
> AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 5:41:08 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] More valve cover woes
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <9988118.1146487268320.JavaMail.root@web18>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

In regards to Doc's email on this. I doubt that you need to be real concerned with metal particles if it is aluminum wearing off. It shouldn't hurt anything. I know what a bear those covers can be to get off and on! I bet you wish you'd have scared up an earlier or later non plastic head! The 87 up aluminum head would have been my choice!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote: 
> Sheesh, even the simplest tasks....
> 
> So I got the valve cover off ('83 six, a 'plastic cover' head, with a
> cast aluminum cover I got from AJ), the silicone I used leaked. I got it
> spotless, used Permatex High Tack (non-hardening) liberally, it looks
> like it will seal just fine.
> 
> Drove to the cafe, parked... heard a "lifter tick" noise -- rockers are
> just tapping/scraping the valve cover! Got it home, loosened the valve
> cover, it quieted... I shoved it side to side (there's atiny bit of play
> in the bolt holes), slight change in sound, but upon tightening the
> bolts it ticks again. It's very, very slight, so I'm just gonna drive it
> and let it "wear in". What a pain in the butt!
> 
> This was a new Felpro gasket; the old one was a Felpro too.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 5:45:25 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Navarro Indy turbo setup... in a Hornet
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Message-ID: <15332339.1146487525444.JavaMail.root@web18>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

There's no way I'd even consider going carbed if you ever get to actually build with this stuff! An EFI system will be much more tolerant of the high under hood heat buildup from this setup. While this is one nifty looking setup. I wonder how pratcical it would be to use? You may be far better off to make up something a little less complex. Not flaming, just thinking out loud!
--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote: 
> On Sun, 2006-04-30 at 13:13, Ray Mick wrote:
> > Been there done this. http://members.cox.net/bledwards1/turbo/ Put it  
> > on a buddies Gremlin.
> 
> Thanks! Yup, I crawled all over your page some months back.  My photos
> are of the weird, one-off Navarro manifold, made for the 181 ci Rambler
> Six he ran at Indy in 1967/68.
> 
> It's really nice and short; though this one is cast from stainless, it
> could be fabricated from steel.  The carb setup sticks way off the
> block.
> 
> 
>


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 06:04:46 -0700
From: "William Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Valve covers are a bitch!!!!
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <BAY105-F27470491B4400B3248BF37C5B10@xxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed

The simplist remedy for the aftermarket cast aluminum valve cover(s) is to 
remove the wiper motor and the backing plate that the motor rests on. That 
little "clippie" that holds everything together can be a P.I.T.A. (pain in 
the a$$) but it gets it out of your way so you do have some room to work. 
Another option is to place a large floor jack under the motor and a smaller 
floor jack under the tranny, unbolt the motor mounts and very carefullly 
pull the motor forward. BUT PULL IT AS FAR TO NOT PUT THE FAN INTO THE 
RADIATOR!! That will also allow you to have some room to work. I use the 
Clifford Performance valve cover on my Gremlin. The best way to glue it on 
is to use contact cement. Place your valve cover gasket on a flat clean 
surface, goop it up pretty good with contact cement and let it dry over 
night. The cement has to be dry for it to work properly. NOW HERES THE 
REALLY TRICKY AND STICKY PART. Use a small amount of the contact cement on 
the stuff that has dried over night. Place the gasket on the valve cover, 
you have to be quick or the stuffs going to stick and if the gasket isnt in 
the right spot....well..... your screwed! I know this sounds like alot of 
work to get somthing to work. I know I have been there and done that. The 
gasket on my Gremlin has been on there for over 60,xxx plus miles with out a 
leak or a drip or any problems. I also had to do the same thing to the 83 
Eagle wagon that I had at one time. I thought I would "try" to drill and tap 
the holes in the head with out removing the head..HOMER SIMPSON DID IT 
AGAIN. Dont do it. Take the head all the way off and take it to a reputiable 
machine shop and have them drill and tap the holes. Remove the wiper motor 
and I use a flexiable screwin' driver to get back in between the fire wall 
and the valve cover. You also have to remove the stock valve cover hold 
downs that are on the rocker arms. What is nice about using the contact 
cement is that you only use it on the side that sticks to the valve cover. I 
never use anything between the gasket and the head itself. The valve cover 
can be removed and replaced several times with out any problems as leaks and 
stuff. I have never heard of an after market valve cover scrapping on the 
rockers before. That is the reason that they are made....make room for the 
after market rolller rockers. Its a lot of back bustin', nuckle bustin' work 
but in the long run they are nice and you dont have all the rocker noise 
like you do with the stockers. GOOD LUCK! KEEP THEM AMC'S ALIVE AND WELL!!



Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
AKA Brother B.
AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.
1973 Gremlin X "clone" (project)
1970 Original Hornet "plain jane"
1974 Matador Coupe "Parts car"




------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 06:34:28 -0700
From: "John Elle" <johnelle@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] More Valve Cover Woes
To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <000401c66d23$f971de30$e7dd0d82@john1>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

SNIP
The shop doing the work  installed an aluminum valve cover and it looked
like they got out the BMF mechanic's hammer and beat the firewall to
death at the body seam under the wiper motor. It looked like a real hack
job. "Doc"
SNIP
 
The TSM seems to recommend the removal of the windshield wiper motor to
gain clearance required to install the I-6 valve cover with out having
problems with the lip on the firewall.
So far my experience with that procedure has saved me a lot of grief and
the frustration leading to whacking on the body seam with a BFH!
John
 


------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 09:06:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] This is a test of my hotmail account....
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200605011306.k41D6oU21542@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

" From: "William Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
" 
" I finally got a hold of someone from MSN and they told me how to turn of the 
" fancy text stuff. SO, I am doing a little test to see if it works or not. If 
" not, I will go use my yahoo account. Will someone please let me know if it 
" works or not...Thanks!!!!!!!

could you post it, for the benefit of other hotmailers?
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought


------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 09:14:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Sandwich Maker)
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID: <200605011314.k41DEoo21574@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

" From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
" 
" First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
" (pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
"  He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
" install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
" box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
" came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
" What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
" so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
" local mechanic to make the switch.

on all the later cars until the early '70s at least - and i assume on
these also - the setup required the adapter plate to mount the big
saginaw 700 ps gear to the manual-gear bolt pattern on the frame.  you
also need a two-piece steering column shaft with a coupling flange,
and of course the ps pump, pulleys, and brackets for the engine.

this might be an excellent situation to use the smaller saginaw 605 ps
gear from a chevy vega, as it has the manual-box mounting pattern
right off.  it's very popular with the '50s chevy rod crowd for this
reason.
________________________________________________________________________
Andrew Hay                                  the genius nature
internet rambler                            is to see what all have seen
adh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx                       and think what none thought


------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 14:38:48 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: [AMC-List] (no subject)
To: tomj@xxxxxxx, amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Message-ID:
	<050120061438.21642.44561D780001DDE30000548A21604666480E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

Well, you could always run the exhaust across the valve cover and down the passenger side. That would leave room for the pipes going into the turbo inlet. But as you said before, that thing needs to be in a Indy type chassis for full effect! What you need is a Dodge Intrepid or better yet an Eagle Premier transaxle (auto for ease of conversion) adapted to it. Then you could build a narrow 2"x4" rectangular tubing frame and parallel arm rear suspension. The auto transaxle would actually stand up better than a manual since the converter will absorb some shock. With the car so light in the back should roast tires instead of transaxles. 

If anyone is serious about a turbo six in their AMC, the best/easiest mounting method is to use the stock manifold and run a pipe under the engine to the right side, mounting the turbo over there. With the 20" of pipe you lose a slight amount of efficiency, but not much. The pipe can always be wrapped if you're concerned. 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent 
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

original message-------------------------------
Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 10:04:07 -0700
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Navarro Indy turbo setup... in a Hornet

I'm nearly done with the rebuild of Josh's '72 Hornet. Got the 904 in
yesterday. I hate doing transmission installs the most, all I've got is
a somewhat rough concrete driveway (beats dirt though). My homemade
transmission jack worked just fine though.

Since the engine (1973 258 six) and trans are in but not assembled, I
thought it would be interesting to prop the Navarro Indy motor turbo
guts onto it to see how badly it fit. 

http://wps.com/AMC/Navarro-turbo-Hornet/index.html

Imagine my surprise when the big T04 turbo cleared the spring tower by
4" inches, and the brake master cylinder by the same. Wouldn't work with
power brakes, eh.

Slight bump needed for hood clearance, but nothing stupid.

Plumbing is always tough, it appears from photos of other people's
projects (never did a turbo, yet) but it sure looks like there's room
for everything needed.

The output volute rotates, so there's room there. FI is built into the
manifold (below each port, not visible) but a carb would be nifty
(except for all those manifold explosions).

Anyways no plans for this sort of thing, just a mockup since I had the
opportunity. A cast iron manifold and Carter YF are actually going on
this motor, a far cry from  30 lbs boost sucked out of a huge Dellorto
carbumureettor.


------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 14:54:09 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Seat Covers 1970 buckets
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Message-ID:
	<050120061454.12467.445621100005443E000030B321604666480E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

John, I used Autocraft covers on 1974 or so Matador "Individual Reclining" seats with hard shell backs. I seem to recall that the covers went OVER the hard shells, but that was a long time ago. If AJ is "listening" he might remember the car as he did some work on it for the next owner. I do recall that the covers had the back done in the same material as the rest of the cover. I don't clearly recall if I pulled them over the back or put the plastic back on over the cover, but I think it was over the back. That just makes sense -- otherwise you couldn't change colors in the interior very easy. If the backs are missing the covers won't fit very tight without something to take their place. All Autocraft covers are designed to pull snugly over the existing upholstery, so leaving the carpet should be a good idea. 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent 
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

original message -----------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 Apr 2006 19:15:16 -0400
From: "John" <marq@xxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Seat Covers 1970 buckets


I don't have the plastic shells for the buckets on my 70 Ambo, they were long gone before I bought the car.  I am looking for a low cost recover on the seats and will be removing the cheesy carpet that was glued onto the back of the bucket seats by the previous owner.  Has anyone successfully upholstered over the back (where the shell was)?  Has anyone used Autocraft seatcovers on 1970 buckets? 

John
70 Ambo SST




------------------------------

Message: 11
Date: Mon, 01 May 2006 15:13:15 +0000
From: farna@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Two Requests (58-63 Amer. PS, Shift rod clips)
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx (AMC-List)
Cc: piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
	<050120061513.7890.4456258A000EE49E00001ED221604666480E029D0E00@xxxxxxx>
	

Easy one first -- the original shift rods had a washer on each side of the grommet and a cotter pin holding the rods in. I use a "hairpin" instead because it's easier to install and remove. 

Now for the PS. There is just enough room to fit a modern steering box. I used one on a 63 Classic, but have owned enough of the 61-63 Americans to be very familiar with them. At least one of the lower holes on the modern Saginaw box will align with one of the original steering box holes. The others will have to be drilled. In my Classic the uppermost mounting hole on the box was just above the "frame" rail. I used a piece of 1/2" conduit as a spacer and drilled the hole just above the rail in the inner fender wall. The original steering shaft will have to the cut from the original steering box and a piece welded to the end for mounting a "rag joint". If you get a collapsing shaft from a late 80s GM rear drive car (GP, Monte Carlo, Regal) the shaft can be cut and weled with at least 2" of the collapsible tube used for adjusting the length. I'd do this BEFORE the new holes for the steering box are made. The box needs to be mounted at the right angle for the shaft.

Mounting the box is the easy part. I'm not sure if the pitman arm from the original box will fit the shaft of the new power box. If it does you're all set (I don't think it does, but you might be able to adapt it). If not, you'll have to modify a Concord (et. al.) drag link and change the inner tie rod ends and idler arm to the newer style. That will entail cutting the Concord drag link and welding. If you can find a piece of tubing with an inner diameter the same as the outer of the drag link short pieces can be used as sleeves, making the cutting and welding pretty simple. It's not a bad idea to replace the drag link anyway. That old spring buffered link makes for very vague steering! I always tightened mine down as much as I could just short of causing it to bind and even used washers as shims in one. The springs get pretty weak over time. 

--
Frank Swygert
Publisher, "American Independent 
Magazine" (AIM)
For all AMC enthusiasts
http://farna.home.att.net/AIM.html
(free download available!)

original message ------------------------------------

From: JOE FULTON <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Two Requests
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx

First I have a friend with a 63 American convertible
(pink by the way) who wants to install power steering.
 He has the OHV 196 engine but he would like to
install conventional power steering with a Saginaw
box, not the "ram type" power steering which I think
came on these cars.  Does anyone know how to do this? 
What parts to look for?  He does not do his own work,
so he will be dropping a pile of parts in the lap of a
local mechanic to make the switch.

Second, I am trying to put a 64 classic 660 back on
the road.  It has manual transmission with overdrive
and column shifter.  I replaced the steering column
and shifter today, because the old one had been
vandalized and was not connected to the shift levers. 
Does anyone have the clips that fasten the shift rods
into the column grommets?  Do you know what these are
supposed to look like?  I can check local hardware
sources for something that will work, but I would like
the factory correct parts.

Thanks, 
Joe Fulton
Salinas, CA


------------------------------

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 11:21:31 -0400
From: "Jeff & Caroline" <jbennett1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Spelling
To: <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <000f01c66d32$ed5ec040$ef387f46@caroline4dv1dm>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

  Maybe the author has drain bramage.



Jeff
Tampa Bay 



------------------------------

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 08:23:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: Nick ALFANO <71amx@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-List] Restoring A Plastic Emblem With Modeling Skills
To: amc list <mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <20060501152356.9911.qmail@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Doc,

I would be very careful putting parts with fresh
solvents into a dehydrator. Most dehydrators have an
open element in them that when mixed with flammable
vapors can make for a very nice little bomb.  If you
need to do this, I would continuously purge the
dehydrator with nitrogen.  This will displace the
oxygen in the system removing one of the three needed
elements for ignition.

Nick Alfano
Alfano Performance
Kenosha, WI. 53142
262-942-8271 after 6pm Central and weekends
262-308-1302

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 06:20:48 -0400
From: AMC74Hornet@xxxxxxxxx (Mr. AMC)
Subject: [AMC-List] Restoring A Plastic Emblem With
Modeling Skills
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx,
	AmericanMotorsModelbuilders@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
	BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
MacsOrphanCarGroup@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Message-ID:
<14895-4455E100-2320@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII

Well I am down to the last body emblem. All the rest
of them were metal
but this one is plastic. The Castrol Super Clean
stripped off all the
old paint and chrome.
I used moder's Bare Metal foil for the chrome on the
AMC letters and 
the
edging of the R/W/B AMC emblem. I got out the can of
the orange paint
that matched the car and hand painted the edges and
between the letters
and emblem orange like I did on the 3 metal Hornet
emblems. When it
tacked up I sprayed 2 coats of Plasti-kote clear
engine enamel on it to
seal the foil and orange paint into each other and
popped it into my
dehydrator to bake. I also used model sheet plastic to
make the new
R/W/B insert and painted it Plasti-kote white primer
and then with
Plasti-kote gloss white Super Enamel. That too is now
baking. This
afternoon I will paint the blue on the emblem and the
red tomorrow and
then the clear the following day. Then glue it into
the base with 2 
step
epoxy and I am done. About 5-6 hours work total and
nothing for
materials as I already had everything including the
double stick tape 
to
mount the emblem on the car. As usual my modeling
skills came in real
handy and the end result will be an emblem that you
will have to get up
really close to see it is not original. :-)~  
"Doc"




------------------------------

Message: 14
Date: Mon, 1 May 2006 8:27:56 -0700
From: markprice242@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [AMC-List] Spelling
To: amc-list@xxxxxxx
Cc: Jeff & Caroline <jbennett1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Message-ID: <10193734.1146497276435.JavaMail.root@web11>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Either that or he fell down and humped is fed!--
Mark Price
markprice242ATadelphia.net
Morgantown, WV


---- Jeff & Caroline <jbennett1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
>   Maybe the author has drain bramage.
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff
> Tampa Bay 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> AMC-List mailing list
> AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list
> 
> or go to http://www.amc-list.com



------------------------------

_______________________________________________
AMC-List mailing list
AMC-List@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.wps.com/mailman/listinfo/amc-list


End of AMC-List Digest, Vol 4, Issue 2
**************************************