A: The tilt and non-tilt switches are reversed. At least in Jeep applications. (I swapped columns to tilt from non-tilt and didn't want to unplug the wiring, so I left the original in place. When I hooked it all up and hooked up the battery, the ignition was on in the lock position and went off when I turned it on. Even funnier was it started up when I switched back to accessories!) From: amcnut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Bart's ignition question/Rosa's Hornet To: mail@xxxxxxxxxxxx Message-ID: <ADVANCES62ednHM3SOl000000e0@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> There is no difference in ignition switches in regards to whether the car is an auto or a stick. The difference lies in whether the column is a tilt or a non-tilt. You can use the switch off any similar year GM product with no problems. I have used the tilt/non-tilt switches interchangeably. I'm not 100% sure what the difference in the two is, but they're similar enough to work. It's very seldom that one of these ignition switches gives any trouble--after all, it's just copper contacts that slide against each other. But, when they do give trouble, it's more likely to be a loose connection than anything else. In regards to Rosa's Hornet--I'd lay odds on the resistor wire being the culprit. I had this same problem occur on a Spirit a few years ago--would run as long as the ignition was turned to "start" but would die as soon as it flipped back to "run". I fixed the problem by opening up the wiring harness under the hood, completely removing the resistor wire, and then installing a ceramic Mopar-style ignition resistor inline. Worked like a charm. Replacing the resistor wire with a similar wire might prove to be a challenge--would be hard to know just how much of what kind of wire to buy. Jeff Reeves Auburn GA 79 Spirit GT 72 Javelin SST 69 Ambassador DPL