Re: Rusted Rear Brake Drum... figuring on 8's to break it

[Jerry Casper <gremlingts@xxxxxxxxx>]

--- Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> One other technique ..is to
> ...put the wheels
> on loosely (as in the 
> lug nuts are backed off a turn or two) and driving
> slow figure 8's. I've 
> never done this but it's supposed to work well.


  This worked well for ME when a Pacer I'd bought
refused to release the actual RIMS off the hubs as
well. I tried kicking them, slamming the tires
sideways with all the lug nuts loose ( and off , too
), but they only finally broke loose when I loosened
the lugs as Matt mentioned a turn or so, then went
slowly driving down a street, weaving side to side.
Took about a mile of driving, but I heard the Prang!
of the rims breaking loose 4 times, then drove it
back. The center clearance with the bearing hubs are
so tight, the rust had seized the rims solidly to them
thru the center hole of the aluminum rims that were on
them ( the 30-fin turbines ). Same thing with another
Pacer I found in a junkyard, had the 30-fin turbines,
I had to beat and beat them to get them off, they'd
seized to the hub solidly. I was beating the tires,
though, NOT the rims. :)  the LAST rim on that
junkyard Pacer required a 10 foot long steel pole, and
me slamming into it with the tire as a fulcrum before
it finally let go after 5-10 minutes of sweating and
cursing. I've NEVER had a model of car ( and the
particular rims, either ) cause me so much problems
getting wheels off! Good thing I didnt' need the
brakes. LOL. Or change them on the highway.
  Anyway, just thought I'd comment on this method, as
it does work, just gotta be safe doing it. 

 Jerry Casper


		
__________________________________ 
Do you Yahoo!? 
Dress up your holiday email, Hollywood style. Learn more. 

http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com