Re: [AMC-list] [BaadAssGremlins] Re: eagle dies at stops signs/lights
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Re: [AMC-list] [BaadAssGremlins] Re: eagle dies at stops signs/lights
- From: "Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 19:18:16 -0500
Eh, most of the stuff is there. I mentioned earlier that there are two figer sized tubes that are supposed to be on back of breather, and run down to crossover pipe (?) on exhaust, but that was bypassed by old man who owned the car. The EGR valve on back there is no line to it but don't seem to be affecting anything either. I might take advise and change out all the little vacuum lines and what not as some of them are indeed brittle. I drove the car today for about 20 miles, ran great, no stutter on takeoff, and only died once, at Wal Mart right after I started it, just died, and cranked back up and no problem. So no pattern it seems just does it on occasion.
A special heads up to Mike Lakin in Nevada who sent me a used ignition module connected to distributor connected to a number of plugs. The plugs is what I really wanted as the old man took off the factory plugs on this and had electrical tape and plugs on it (!) and so I replaced the ignition module with new one, (not the used one Mike sent as had already ordered it) new carb, and now has 'factory' plugs back on it.
Something I just remembered from years ago with my 78 Pacer wagon was it ran sort of crappy due to cat converter being plugged up and one night I looked at engine in dark, no lights around (not eay to do in Houston) and the 258 exhaust pipe from intake was glowing eerie orange. So I had new cat put on it and never had that trouble again and it seemed to make it run smoother. Not that it has to do anything with this 88 Eagle, just a comment.
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
----- Original Message -----
From: tom jennings
To: Eddie Stakes ; AMC, Rambler, Nash, Jeep and family
Cc: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 2:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AMC-list] [BaadAssGremlins] Re: eagle dies at stops signs/lights
Is the smog stuff under the hood still intact and in good repair? Because i those years, there's a small vent line from the tank that runs to an anti-tipover valve inside the rear wheel arch (under a steel shield, you might not even know it's there) then (up the drivers side, I think) into the charcoal canister. The charcoal canister is vented into the air cleaner or something.
If that line is plugged (or pinched, etc) then yeah, the tank will build pressure when hot, or vacuum, when cool, and the car will "run out of gas" until you take off the filler cap and WOOSH air rushes in.
I got a '75 Gremlin *CALIFORNIA* 304v8 car running 100% with every single smog device intact and it ran just great. The CA-only v8 EGR valve cost me $100, other than that it was cheep. No one want's that stuff, but I tell ya, when tweaked up right it not only doesn't interfere, it does make it run better.
The problem with all that crap is, it's a bear to KEEP right, because it's all "open loop" hoses and kludgey little valves and such. Modern closed-loop stuff is a lot easier.
The charcoal canister system hurts nothing, and does keep stinky gas fumes out of the air. Never did buy a new one though, I just ran the old one, so I suppose it wasn't doing much besides routing fumes into the air cleaner But that car never stunk of gas.
On Thu, Apr 30, 2009 at 12:25, Eddie Stakes <eddiestakes@planethoustonamxcom> wrote:
Hmm....also helpful but this is new out of box carb, so not sure it would apply, it might, just not sure. I do however wish to note that the gas tank cap behind the license plate seems to build up some pressure. I mentioned this to the O'Reillys guy when picking up other stuff today and he said there should not be any pressure as not hot day. But I smelled gas, and remembered my 82 Eagle used to build up pressure like that and for like of me, can't remember how I remedied it ten years ago and still drive the 82 with 210K miles on it. But I did stop at Wal Mart to check on some Hot wheels (none) AMXs, and twisted off gas cap and WHOOOOSH! came back at me. It did same in the 2 mile jaunt home also, but not as bad. Suggestions comments appreciated between dehumidifying the house and pulling up carpet for 2nd day in row in effort to save hardwood floors!
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Henry Hultquist
To: BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 8:20 PM
Subject: Re: [BaadAssGremlins] Re: eagle dies at stops signs/lights
The Ball and Ball (or is it Ball and Stall) carb just seems to be trouble I had an Eagle that stalled at every stop light, especially if I had to stop in a hurry. Check this out, I think I first saw it on a jeep site, but it is on (ahem) Planet Houston AMX.
http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/amc_carter_carb_fix.htm
Onree in Nebraska
On Apr 27, 2009, at 6:24 PM, Eddie Stakes wrote:
Hi Jimn and thanks tot all who have replied so far, a lot of excellent
advise. Here is what I have replaced:
New carb $250
New ignition module $70
spark plugs
rotor
cap
It runs great but still conks out for no reason sometimes, most recently
today.
I was driving along I-10 feeder road and it felt like it sort of lost power,
then regained compusure.
On top of the manifold directly behind the power steering unit something
that screws into the intake from top and a wire goes into it. The unit is
broken, not sure what it might be, maybe O2 sensor?
In back of the breather there is two provisions for something that on my
other 88 Eagle; has two emission tubes. These are not hooked up to anything
and looking under car there is nothing to hook them up to if they were
there, in other words, they were bypassed at some point.
The car seems to have lots of pep with 78K miles. It is just that this
sputtering sometimes or outright dying is annoying. Someone else mentioned
it is something in the steering column, somehting I have not heard before.
So slowly will figure this out, and again, thanks to all who have replied on
the various lists, keep ideas coming,
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; "Eddie Stakes"
<eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 5:09 PM
Subject: RE: [AMC-list] eagle dies at stops signs/lights
I've had that stalling problem with my Spirit (and Eagles and Jeeps) several
times too.
First it was the carb being loose (grab ahold of the body of the carb
with the aircleaner off and see if you can twist it. If the answer is yes,
pop it off and re-tighten the main body screws up from the bottom and the
other 2 from the top. Replace base gasket and don't bang carb upside down!
That will mess with the float level). The weight of the air cleaner, which
is held down only by the air cleaner stud, rocks back and forth and loosens
the screws.
Then the stepper motor was sticking (cleaned it out with throttle body
cleaner. NOTE: Do NOT use WD40 or anything else with silicon lube in it!
That will kill the O2 sensor that makes the BBD function properly and will
cost you fuel economy. If you don't have the stepper, then it doesn't
matter)
Then the rust in the gas tank clogged up the carb, filters, etc. I took
the top off the carb, reset the float and sprayed everything clean along
with a new filter. (I had to do it twice more before I added another inline
filter and sediment bowl before the fuel pump)
The car got hard to start when cold and it puzzled me as the choke was
perfect. Found out the rust had eaten (or jammed) the valves in the fuel
pump and allowed the fuel to go back to the tank after shut off. New fuel
pump and fresh pre-filter again. (I recently cured that rust problem with a
good used replacement fuel tank, but now it needs a sending unit as I was
lubing my old one and accidentally dropped it. Now it only reads full to 3/4
tank)
I've had a few other things happen before too. Ignition module going
south was one. With the motor warmed up, smack the Motorcraft module with a
rubber mallet. If the car shuts off, replace the module.
Another was a torque converter going bad. Put the car in forward gear and
even the slightest gas would make it stall. Worked fine in reverse. The fix
was to drop the valve body and plug off the line to the lockup converter (S
shaped tube on top of '77ish and newer Mopar style trans) with a large BB.
That defeats the lockup, doesn't cost much (except time, a trans service
kit, a BB and the seal for the shifter linkage shaft. The linkage has to be
removed and re-adjusted to work properly when done. I highly suggest
pressure washing to degrease the driver's side of the trans before working
on it)
As for the Nutter Bypass, a google search will show it on may sites
including my own old one at Geocities. (photos got messed up with mine)
Loud internal noises can cause the knock sensor (which is really just a
microphone tuned to certain sound wavelength) to radically retard timing and
can cause stalling too.
From: "Eddie Stakes"
Subject: [AMC-list] eagle dies at stops signs/lights
To: , ,
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Somewhere on the Eagle nest forum, there is/was a thread about AMC Eagle
dying for no reason at stop signs and stop lights. Always cranked right back
up no problem, but more of a annoyance than anything. For some reason I
thought it had something to do with carb, but unsure. Anyone remember the
link or thread about that feel free to post it here so I can go check it
out, to troubleshoot a Eagle. Thanks in advance to all who might reply.
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
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--
All of your arguments are invalid.
Enjoy your unstable system.
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