Re: [AMC-list] eagle dies at stops signs/lights

[Jim Blair <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I've had that stalling problem with my Spirit (and Eagles and Jeeps) several times too. 

   First it was the carb being loose (grab ahold of the body of the carb with the aircleaner off and see if you can twist it. If the answer is yes, pop it off and re-tighten the main body screws up from the bottom and the other 2 from the top. Replace base gasket and don't bang carb upside down! That will mess with the float level). The weight of the air cleaner, which is held down only by the air cleaner stud, rocks back and forth and loosens the screws.

   Then the stepper motor was sticking (cleaned it out with throttle body cleaner. NOTE: Do NOT use WD40 or anything else with silicon lube in it! That will kill the O2 sensor that makes the BBD function properly and will cost you fuel economy. If you don't have the stepper, then it doesn't matter)

   Then the rust in the gas tank clogged up the carb, filters, etc. I took the top off the carb, reset the float and sprayed everything clean along with a new filter. (I had to do it twice more before I added another inline filter and sediment bowl before the fuel pump)

   The car got hard to start when cold and it puzzled me as the choke was perfect. Found out the rust had eaten (or jammed) the valves in the fuel pump and allowed the fuel to go back to the tank after shut off. New fuel pump and fresh pre-filter again. (I recently cured that rust problem with a good used replacement fuel tank, but now it needs a sending unit as I was lubing my old one and accidentally dropped it. Now it only reads full to 3/4 tank)

   I've had a few other things happen before too. Ignition module going south was one. With the motor warmed up, smack the Motorcraft module with a rubber mallet. If the car shuts off, replace the module.

   Another was a torque converter going bad. Put the car in forward gear and even the slightest gas would make it stall. Worked fine in reverse. The fix was to drop the valve body and plug off the line to the lockup converter (S shaped tube on top of '77ish and newer Mopar style trans) with a large BB. That defeats the lockup, doesn't cost much (except time, a trans service kit, a BB and the seal for the shifter linkage shaft. The linkage has to be removed and re-adjusted to work properly when done. I highly suggest pressure washing to degrease the driver's side of the trans before working on it)

As for the Nutter Bypass, a google search will show it on may sites including my own old one at Geocities. (photos got messed up with mine)

Loud internal noises can cause the knock sensor (which is really just a microphone tuned to certain sound wavelength) to radically retard timing and can cause stalling too.


From: "Eddie Stakes" 
Subject: [AMC-list] eagle dies at stops signs/lights
To: , ,
	
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Somewhere on the Eagle nest forum, there is/was a thread about AMC Eagle 
dying for no reason at stop signs and stop lights. Always cranked right back 
up no problem, but more of a annoyance than anything. For some reason I 
thought it had something to do with carb, but unsure. Anyone remember the 
link or thread about that feel free to post it here so I can go check it 
out, to troubleshoot a Eagle. Thanks in advance to all who might reply.
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
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