Re: [AMC-list] eagle dies at stops signs/lights

["Eddie Stakes" <eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Jimn and thanks tot all who have replied so far, a lot of excellent
advise. Here is what I have replaced:
New carb $250
New ignition module $70
spark plugs
rotor
cap
It runs great but still conks out for no reason sometimes, most recently
today.

I was driving along I-10 feeder road and it felt like it sort of lost power,
then regained compusure.
On top of the manifold directly behind the power steering unit something
that screws into the intake from top and a wire goes into it. The unit is
broken, not sure what it might be, maybe O2 sensor?

In back of the breather there is two provisions for something that on my
other 88 Eagle; has two emission tubes. These are not hooked up to anything
and looking under car there is nothing to hook them up to if they were
there, in other words, they were bypassed at some point.

The car seems to have lots of pep with 78K miles. It is just that this
sputtering sometimes or outright dying is annoying. Someone else mentioned
it is something in the steering column, somehting I have not heard before.

So slowly will figure this out, and again, thanks to all who have replied on 
the various lists, keep ideas coming,
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Blair" <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; "Eddie Stakes"
<eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 5:09 PM
Subject: RE: [AMC-list] eagle dies at stops signs/lights



I've had that stalling problem with my Spirit (and Eagles and Jeeps) several
times too.

  First it was the carb being loose (grab ahold of the body of the carb
with the aircleaner off and see if you can twist it. If the answer is yes,
pop it off and re-tighten the main body screws up from the bottom and the
other 2 from the top. Replace base gasket and don't bang carb upside down!
That will mess with the float level). The weight of the air cleaner, which
is held down only by the air cleaner stud, rocks back and forth and loosens
the screws.

  Then the stepper motor was sticking (cleaned it out with throttle body
cleaner. NOTE: Do NOT use WD40 or anything else with silicon lube in it!
That will kill the O2 sensor that makes the BBD function properly and will
cost you fuel economy. If you don't have the stepper, then it doesn't
matter)

  Then the rust in the gas tank clogged up the carb, filters, etc. I took
the top off the carb, reset the float and sprayed everything clean along
with a new filter. (I had to do it twice more before I added another inline
filter and sediment bowl before the fuel pump)

  The car got hard to start when cold and it puzzled me as the choke was
perfect. Found out the rust had eaten (or jammed) the valves in the fuel
pump and allowed the fuel to go back to the tank after shut off. New fuel
pump and fresh pre-filter again. (I recently cured that rust problem with a
good used replacement fuel tank, but now it needs a sending unit as I was
lubing my old one and accidentally dropped it. Now it only reads full to 3/4
tank)

  I've had a few other things happen before too. Ignition module going
south was one. With the motor warmed up, smack the Motorcraft module with a
rubber mallet. If the car shuts off, replace the module.

  Another was a torque converter going bad. Put the car in forward gear and
even the slightest gas would make it stall. Worked fine in reverse. The fix
was to drop the valve body and plug off the line to the lockup converter (S
shaped tube on top of '77ish and newer Mopar style trans) with a large BB.
That defeats the lockup, doesn't cost much (except time, a trans service
kit, a BB and the seal for the shifter linkage shaft. The linkage has to be
removed and re-adjusted to work properly when done. I highly suggest
pressure washing to degrease the driver's side of the trans before working
on it)

As for the Nutter Bypass, a google search will show it on may sites
including my own old one at Geocities. (photos got messed up with mine)

Loud internal noises can cause the knock sensor (which is really just a
microphone tuned to certain sound wavelength) to radically retard timing and
can cause stalling too.


From: "Eddie Stakes"
Subject: [AMC-list] eagle dies at stops signs/lights
To: , ,

Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

Somewhere on the Eagle nest forum, there is/was a thread about AMC Eagle
dying for no reason at stop signs and stop lights. Always cranked right back
up no problem, but more of a annoyance than anything. For some reason I
thought it had something to do with carb, but unsure. Anyone remember the
link or thread about that feel free to post it here so I can go check it
out, to troubleshoot a Eagle. Thanks in advance to all who might reply.
Eddie Stakes
713.464.8825
eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
www.planethoustonamx.com
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