Re: [Amc-list] Fusible Link wire gage size

[Glen Hoag <hoag@xxxxxx>]

My understanding was that wire in the fusible link is smaller than 
the wire on the circuit it is designed to protect, so the link fails 
before the wire.  The Hypalon insulation is designed to contain the 
melting wire in a failure, but I don't think there is anything 
special about the copper in the wire.

This reference states that the conductor in the fusible link is 
usually four wire sizes smaller than the circuit wire. 
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb1.pdf

--Glen

At 07:45 PM 7/27/2008, Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>Also, the insulation is not your standard plastic. The 'Hypalon' doesn't melt
>like the usual stuff. Most of it stays on the wire.
>
>Ken
>
>Quoting Matt Haas <mhaas@xxxxxxx>:
>
> >
> > Fusible links are not standard copper wire. The way they work is when
> > the system overloads, it creates heat and melts the wire (pretty much
> > the same way a fuse works). Soldering irons get much hotter than the
> > temperature they melt at so its easy to melt the wire trying to solder
> > it in.
> >
> > Matt
> >
> > On 7/26/2008 8:51 PM, David Crooks spouted this sage advice:
> > >  > BTW, if you put a fusible link back in, *do not* solder it. Soldering
> > >  > it will melt the wire. The proper way to fix it is to crimp it on and
> > >  > use heat shrink tubing to seal it.
> > >
> > > Ok I'll bite...
> > > What kind of soldering iron are you using, that will melt copper
> > > wire?  Time to put away your blow torches!
> > >
> > > Soldering will not melt the wire...
> > >
> > > There is a reason that crimping is preferred though.
> > > Soldering tends to produce a very stiff section of wire, which
> > > when subjected to a lot of vibration (like every engine bay
> > > has!) is prone to metal fatigue and breaking.
> > >
> > > Crimped connections are the way to go,
> > > but not due to melted wires....
> > >
> > > Dave

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