On Thu, 21 Feb 2008, Bruce Griffis wrote: > Okay, compression is not pretty. > > 1 = 110 > 2 = 130 > 3 = 120 > 4 = 120 > 5 = 140 > 6 = 80 Oh well, I'd go for it, but take it super easy on it when you get it running, like < 2000 rpm for a while, like 10 - 30 minutes? Then re-check it. If the plug is oily, or if compression drops... bad. Maybe it'll come up though. A lot of work at this level is guesswork, pet ideas, rumors and hearsay, on top of some understanding of the parts and physics involved. Might even sacrifice a chicken or two. THe problem is that without knowing precisely what's going on in there (rust? carbon? broken ring? bad gas goo? driven without oil/scored walls? ...), there's not a lot you can do. Pop the head if you feel adventurous. That's not all that hard even for a novice. One thing I did to my 195.6ohv was, put probably 4 - 8oz of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder from the plug hole over a 2 - 3 week period. It didn't stay there. I picture it (...) soaking past the rings, filling the gaps, and loosening crud, and leaving a little lube behind for those first critical seconds of high-speed piston/ring motion. I rotated it with a ratchet on the crank more or less daily an added more oil. It all worked out OK in the end. Plus I sacrificed a chicken. It might have been that. > as well. I did not pick up a multi-meter yet, so haven't > checked the actual current readings - I simply tested that > I'm getting power to it, and between it and the distributor. I wouldn't agonize over it; if there's 12V at the battery+ then current flow will be close enough to correct to assume it's OK. If the test lamp was dim/really dim then you'd have either a ballast or resistor wire or likely, bad connections. If it's bright go for it. _______________________________________________ Amc-list mailing list Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list