Re: [Amc-list] The '65 American 330 cranks - now to figure why it won'tstart

["jerijan baldwin" <jerijan@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I disagree here: Why fully time something up which may be dead??
Do the checks outlined in my previous message....THEN when it starts, it's
onto 'tune up' time.
As for the fuel pump, remove the line into the carb, put a 'catcher' on the
end of that line, and crank.  Watch for 'strength' of stream and 'volume' as
well.  Step two of Fuel pump check is 'backblow' the tank (assuming the
stream does not exist or is wicked weak).  Backblowing removes the silt and
yuck from the 'sock' on the pickup (sometimes) allowing fuel thru it.
If the car has been asleep for a while (you define 'a while' considering
such things as whether the tank was open, had old fuel in it, ever got wet
(as in water) inside, etc.  Any 'Sleeping Car' will almost definitely
require a dropping of the fuel tank to clean it's pickup, remove any crap
inside it (as in rust, etc) and possibly to coat the inside to prevent
movement of 'yuck' into the fuel stream.  If the tank has rust in it, it
WILL contaminate the fuel system regularly.  The filters can only remove so
much before they clog.
Fuel System is a procedure which isn't often short.  Hint: do it right the
first time else you WILL repeat it...(and repeat it, and repeat it...etc).
For 'no spark', check the points FIRST.  Be sure power into the system (at
the coil and into the low tension part of the distributor.  How do you tell?
Open the distributor:  set the points CLOSED.  Turn on key.  Open points
manually.  You'll hear a tick (or see a spark).  If not, clean the heads
(contacts) of the points as you've been told NOT TO...using sandpaper of
approx 100 grit and then blow the contacts clean.  Now repeat this.  Got
spark?  (You WILL if there is inbound current).
Be sure to clean the contacts at the coil (where the low tension wires
attach.  Unscrew them.  Be sure they are cleared of 'yuck' (you define
that...anything which a contact does NOT want present, like tarnish, rust,
corrosion, oil, etc).  Replace 'em.  Go to next connection (and check for
inbound current along each stop on the way.  (Spark is 'made' by 'make and
break' contact on the points).
How do you know if your coil is good?  There are specs for this in the TSM,
but my favorite way of checking a coil is 'does it work'?  From that point
you can determine 'how well' using the specs in the TSM.
Anyway, all this ought keep you busy for a few hours today.
Let us know what else you need.
Jj


-----Original Message-----
From: amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Bruce Griffis
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 10:41 PM
To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Amc-list] The '65 American 330 cranks - now to figure why it
won'tstart

Thanks for all the info! I pulled all the plugs, cleaned them, cranked it,
popped 'em back in. I then pulled the number one plug and held it against
the valve cover and didn't get any spark. I then ran the wire from the coil
to a plug, held it against the valve cover - no spark. 

I had wanted to try starting it before doing a full tune-up just to hear it
run - but you guys are right. That's the wrong way to do it. I'll replace
the plugs, spark plug wires, points, condenser, rotor and distributer cap
later in the week. I'm not sure if the coil is bad, or if it is just the
coil wire - the wire looked kind of messed up. 

I did not check the fuel pump yet. I'll try that in the morning - because if
I can sort out the ignition- I want to make sure it's getting fuel as well.


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