Replacing the pillar section is a big job that requires exact measuring and cutting the car's pillar and the replacement part. I have been a welder and fabricator and ran a body shop for 40 years so this job was not a problem for me. The door bolted back on and only needed a minor adjustment to fit. I did this job 5 years ago and it is still fine. "Doc" Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BaadAssGremlins/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: BaadAssGremlins-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- Begin Message ---The worst rust is located around the door hinge area. The door hinges
- From: "amc_car_fan" <amc_car_fan@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2006 13:15:49 -0000
themselves are almost rusted in two. I have another set of doors and
hinges to go on the car. I was hoping that there was a better way to
repair this area, but I think the metal will give way if I patch it. I
will check in Sioux City junkyards and see if they have any cars with
good bodies. I think I may just go ahead and get the A frame too as
there are some nasty areas on there as well.
When you replaced your pillar, was it difficult to re-align the door?
--- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AMC74HORNET@... wrote:
>
> Give me a hint "Bottom" of the door pillar? Any Hornet, Concord, SX-
4.
> Spirit, Eagle door pllar is the same. I rebuilt the pass side on my
74
> Horent hatchack with a pillar from a 79 Conocrd 4 door.
>
--- End Message ---