Re: [BaadAssGremlins] Re: Prepping Plastic Parts For Painting (Bill)

[AMC74HORNET@xxxxxxxxx]

Bill I will have to look in my paint locker for the name of the stripper
I am going to use. I believe it is also made by SEM but I have to check
and get the part no#. It is in an aerosol car and was not cheap. I think
12$ a can retail. My friend got me 4 cans for 8$ a piece but that was 1
1/2 years ago. On the cheap paint subject. On the metal part of the door
that is not covered by the door panel on my orange Hornet I use a
generic cheap paint I buy from Sherman Williams. I buy it by the case as
I use it also on my model cars. 6 11oz. cans 16$. I buy a case of gloss
and flat black just to have on hand. The secret is preparation
preparation preparation. I used the flat black as a primer and then the
gloss for the finish. I am one serious pain when it comes to
preparation. The true test of all of this came yesterday when the
windows were tinted. When the guy tinted the windows he used duct tape
to hold the felt window track and eye brows away from the glass taping
them to the black painted part of the door to get the tint in. I was
really concerned about when he pulled the tape off it would also pull
off the paint. It didn't. In some cases maybe not all it might be like
when you buy somthing from Sears that has their name on it but you know
it is made by a major manufacture. All I know is I am happy the tape
didn't pull of any paint. One other thing is the paint which is enamel
was painted on around a year ago so it was definitely cured. I used the
same paint on my metal interior parts on my yellow Hornet 5-6 years ago
and it still looks like new.
"Doc"



 
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--- Begin Message ---

• From: "William T. Renshaw" <lionwren@xxxxxxxxxxx>
• Date: Wed, 01 Mar 2006 13:27:15 -0000

--- In BaadAssGremlins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, AMC74HORNET@... wrote:
>
> Bill sanding plastic parts that you painted previously that were not
> prepared properly is not a good idea. For one the paint left on
after
> sanding may interact with the new paint and cause everything to
lift and
> secondly you may still not get all the contaminated areas clean. I
would
> recommend a plastic bumper paint stripper to remove all the old
paint.
> Experiment on a small out of sight piece to see if it will work
rather
> than the whole part and taking the chance on reining the whole
part. I
> am using some plastic bumper stripper on some rubber 77 AMX flairs
that
> were painted. I tested the stripper on an extra one I have to make
sure
> it stripped the paint and did not harm the part. Next use the proper
> paint. SEM makes a plastic / vinal paint in all sorts of colors and
> depending on what you are painting there is a different cleaner used
> before you paint it and in the case of a plastic part there is also
a
> semi-gloss clear you can use over the color to make it more durable
like
> on package trays and consoles. I have used it on all the plastic
parts
> on the interior in my orange car from the tan headliner to the tan
> package tray and even to freshen up the factory black replacement
parts
> I used. Now he whole interior is a nice black instead of that puke
tan.
> On the dehydrator most of you interior parts will be to big to fit
into
> one. The SEM dries to the touch in 1/2 hour and completely hard in
24
> hours.
> "Doc"
>      Thanks for the tips there Doc!! Greatly appreciate it. I kinda
had an idea about the parts not fitting into the dehydrator. But
small parts would fit and there is no telling how many small parts I
am going to end up with. As far as chemically stripping parts, that
is a far better idea than sanding for hours and I am kind of worried
about having to sand plastic, its not like this is a big giant model
that I can run down to the hobby store and get a new one. I know that
I will have to be carefull when it comes down to the stripping. Use
the wrong kind or too much I may end up with a puddle of plastic. I
will tell ya from experience that I will be using a good brand of
paint. I used cheap wally world primer paint on my Chevy L.U.V.
truck. And I am talking CHEAP FRIGGIN PAINT HERE!! LOL!! Paint that
cost .98 cents a can is NOT the kind of paint that I will be using on
my Gremlin. The very first time I went to the car wash and washed all
the mud and crap off of my truck after a small 4 wheelin' trip,
washed the primer paint right off!! LOL!! I am not mad...well, not
now any way, I have to laugh and smile about it now.. Its what ya
learn from experience. Hey, its a four wheelin' get down and get
dirty truck, I am not worried about the paint. I left it primered for
a reason. I am not going to put a nice shiny paint job on my truck
and be worried about it getting scratched when I head down the trail.
Now my Gremlin will be a different story... Do you have a name brand
for that stripper?? I may not be able to get that brand of stripper
here in the west. I have noticed that some of the things that people
in the mid west and east coast can get I cant get out here in the
west. Dont ask me why....I have no idea.. Its like a brand of potato
chip that my X used to like...cant get them out here in the west but
as soon as you get over the big river that divides this country..I
could get them just about everywhere...strange huh?? And it probably
goes both ways...stuff we have out here in the west... I bet you cant
get out east either.. Thanks for the tips Doc.. Bill Lewiston Id. 




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