Man this stuff takes forever. Gotta go see if the head is done tomorrow, but I've got stuff to do still. Kanter packed the wrong exhaust valves in the box. The test of a good business isn't not making mistakes as much as it is what happens when they *do* -- within an hour they had IDd the problem and shipped out replacements. The replacements came with an RMA and printed shipping label! Good deal. (Turns out one of the Kanters used to be an AMC factory parts manager, he knew about our nice old 195.6 ohv and all it's crazy variations.) I have the oil pump mods all worked out finally. Basically I've made a replacement top cover out of 1/4" steel plate with a welded-on 1 x 2.5 piece for (1) room for the drive gear oiling and (2) 1/2" of threads for the outlet. Will grind it flat flat flat tomorrow with paper on a ground steel plate. I'm going with "oil cooler hose", it's 300 psi/300F rated. The hose barb business doesn't overwhelm me with aerospace confidence but I'll do a paranoid clean job with double stainless worm clamps and it should be OK. The EDIS spark wheel is attached and looks great. I'll break in the car on the distributor though. The Corvair guy's trick is to have both ignition systems in, run the car off the distributor. Then set the EDIS wheel position so that #1 fires at the right index point. Then turn off the car and switch ignitions, it'll be spot on. Gotta complete the alternator bracket and find the right belt size, but that's all easy when it's on a stand! The new water pump I'd bought many moons ago fits, but the hub was 3/16" too far out, but I managed to press it down to the right height. Nope, didn't hammer on the impeller! The number of small but serious parts variations on this engine is incredible. Got two 12" electric fans from Summit, totally sexy mount, attaches to the sheet metal each side of the radiator, such that they are 1/8" - 3/16" from the radiator core, and 1" from the grille. There's no room in there for one big one, and the two 12" jobs fills the grille air inlet space. The radiator can be removed/installed without touching the fans. I got my computer fan controller all tested and working. The fan speed varies with head temperature, when cold it runs at a minimum speed. It starts to speed up just below the thermostat temp, and runs at full speed 10 degrees over that. There's a knob for that right on the box. I built it into the old generator voltage regulator! It uses the Arduino controller, $29 retail, and a fancy-pants automotive 'high side driver', VN920, $5. Fan speed varies smoothly over a few seconds. It does a 5-minute cooldown when the car is turned off, setting the fan speed proportional to how hot the engine was when it was turned off. I tried to address all the electric fan behavior that made me nuts in the Hornet. Software to the rescue! I swear, someday I will drive it again. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://list.amc-list.com/pipermail/amc-list-amc-list.com/attachments/20100312/a5999232/attachment.htm> _______________________________________________ AMC-list mailing list AMC-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx http://list.amc-list.com/listinfo.cgi/amc-list-amc-list.com