Re: [AMC-list] spun rear axle/hub

[wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

There is an actual product called bearing loctite that I have used with success in the past. 
    Mostly with races. I dimple the loose surface the bearing goes in with a punch. A liberal coat of bearing loctite and drive the race in. 
    Since you have Parts coming this is just what fer. I'd use the Punch and dimple the snot out of the hub new wood ruff key. Lots of bearing race loctite and torque the snot out of it. 
   NO, I have not torque mine. I guess I better get on that. With the interior/ console and the fuel tank upgrade to intake pump I need to not have anything break!
  Plus work is back to being nuts. We hired a third guy and it still sucks with overtime. 

Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless device from U.S. Cellular

-----Original Message-----
From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 15:47:57 
Cc: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-list] spun rear axle/hub

On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 14:48, Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> Probably haven't re-torqued those axle nuts the entire 22 years you had it
> either!
>

I changed the wheel bearings and seals when I put this 1965 axle into the
car, in 1988. Then again in 1996, when I was in there to replace a broken
pinion shaft (bad forging from the factory finally parted).

So now maybe everyone will take care of that, and you need to re-torque
> those on the American too!
>

Damn right, and the Hornet too.



> The problem with a used hub is that the axle is harder than the hub and
> actually "impresses" the axle splines in the hub when first installed.


Yeah, at least I'm getting a matched pair. I'm considering Loctite too. That
stuff isn't magical, it just expands ever so slightly, probably 10 microns,
but in close-fit or press-fit it should help. I won't use stud locker, just
red.

Yeah, the key is 1/8" wide, it's not doing anything but locating.
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