Re: [AMC-list] Fwd: Piston Ring Breakin Regimine

[wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Others here told me dry if it is going to be fired ASAP. 
   3 in 1 oil if it is going to be while as 3 in 1 has no detergents in it and will allow the rings to seat. 
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-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Blair <carnuck@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 2010 08:21:52 
To: <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [AMC-list] Fwd: Piston Ring Breakin Regimine


If the motor was to be fired up right away and you had coated rings, then yes I would run the pistons dry. I have had motors with chrome rings that didn't want to seat and we revved a mix of Bon Ami (never scratched yet!) and water through the carb inlet while at mid RPM, then rev just enough to clear it out.

From: tom jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
To: "AMC, Rambler, Nash, Jeep and family" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [AMC-list] Fwd: Piston Ring Breakin Regimine
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Any comments on this methodology? Nate is a very serious long time pro
mechanic. A genuine greybeard.
 
 
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Nate
 
 
 
I assemble the pistons , rings and cylinders dry ~ I use a paper towl and
window cleaner in the bores until  a clean dry white paper towel comes out
spotless ~ no grey stuff indicating SWARF from honing or boring (I don't
often hone or glaze break either) .
 
I use thick oil on the crank journals and on the new bearing shells , cam
lube on the cam lobes and lifter bases to avoid scuffing .
 
Engine all buttoned up , head torqued and valves adjusted ignition timing
set (about 10* BTDC), run it sans plugs until oil light blinks or oil begins
weeping out the rockers ,
 
Tachometer connected , a watch with sweep second hand under the wipers where
it cannot drift or slip out , install the sparkplugs , goose the throttle
until I see a healthy squirt of fuel , turn on the key and crank it ~ the
instant the engine fires , I hold the throttle until it climbs to 3,000 RPM
, (2,000 if new cam) and hold it there for the full 60 seconds . once 60
seconds has passed , I shut it off and allow to cool down 100 % ~it'll be
hot . yes , the exhaust will smoke profusely , this is normal .
 
Once cool 100% (important) I re-adjust the valves (here you'll re-torque the
cylinder head I guess) and check the timing again then re-start the engine
and check and adjust the timing again as needed , tweak the carby and set
the idle .
 
You're done ! .
 
Scary , no ? BMW , HONDA C.A.R.T. Racing engines , Lycoming/Textron piston
aircraft engines , racers and many others all swear by this method , as I
said before , even after reading about it in various trade magazines and
racing manuals etc. I dithered one full year before trying it , I'll never
start another fresh engine any other way .
 
The deal is this : piston rings need pressure against the cylinder walls to
properly bed in .
 
Please to note , this is not mindless thrashing of a new engine nor is it "
run it like you'll drive it " of other bullshit .
 
Running the engine up to 3,000 RPM's increases the cylinder pressure and
forces the rings to expand fully , bedding into the walls *perfectly* . I
know there's quite a few web sites that cover this .
 
Running the engine this fast when it's tight also increases the heat
dramatically so it's critical to not allow varying of the RPM's nor to allow
it to idle ~ break it in in 60 - seconds then go to bed or whatever , I
usually do it in the late afternoon so I am forced to leave it sit overnight
.
 
I also like to use Kopper Kote aerosol spray on both sides of my head
gaskets , overkill maybe but I never blow any head gaskets either .I hand
the gasket up on a coat hanger then spray both sides , allow to tack up
before spraying again , let dry fully before installing .
 
I wish I could demonstrate on one of my engines before you try it , time
slows down as the engine is howling along and smoking to beat the band but
it does work . 		 	   		  
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