Re: [AMC-list] 195.6 leaky head gasket

[Wrambler <wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

With a nice sheet of copper, some good cad drawings and a waterjet or lazer cutter...
O-ring the block, I'd bet that would stop it!

As for torque, I think ARP has or had info on how some different 
lubes can throw off the actual applied clamping forces. 
Since you have their lube and numbers you should be good this time.

Mark Price
Morgantown, WV 26508
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
"I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens!"

----- "tom jennings" <tomj@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: "tom jennings" <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> To: "Rambler AMC, Nash, Jeep and family" <amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:44:04 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: [AMC-list] 195.6 leaky head gasket
>
> Popped the head off today, and what a mess! Evidence of oil and water
> leaks.
> The head gasket didn't seal for crap. I suspect the head isn't
> cracked, just
> the leaky gasket, but I won't know for sure til I get it magnafluxed.
> 
> When I last assembled it, summer? 2007, the head was resurfaced, and
> the
> block I got clean with razorblades and lacquer thinner. Copper
> Permatex
> (brush on I recall now) decent thin coat. It's evident I didn't use
> too
> much.
> 
> It's one of those old fashioned composite gaskets with the steel lip
> around
> the combustion chambers etc. You can tell where it did seal -- the
> steel is
> shiny, with bits of Permatex visible. But in the portion between the
> cylinder pairs (the pairs w/o a crank journal between) the steel is
> blackened. There was foamy oil near #2 and #5, and those two, the
> typical
> light carbon/coke on the piston top was soft, steamed soft. (It wasn't
> oil;
> plugs and valves are white). I had those clean (photos) in 2007.
> 
> The most likely thing I can think of is my torque wrench is WAY off
> (I'll
> get it checked or a new one depending on the cost to check) and/or the
> lube
> I used threw torque way off. Do gaskets go bad sitting on the shelf?
> Hard to
> imagine. You can do bad things with too much Permatex, but that's not
> it
> here. Block deck could be not-flat, but I checked it with my Starrett
> 18"
> straight edge (as best I could in the car).
> 
> 
> 
> I got the 2nd donor motor all apart for cleaning, and I now have a
> near-perfect rocker assembly (in parts of course). MAN was this
> (donor)
> dirty! I had to drive the rockers and stands off with a hammer and
> block of
> wood. (Solvent, steel wool, oil, Kroil, etc). Miraculuously the shaft
> is not
> worn. No harm done, it was just hardened goo: no oil filter, cheap
> oil, many
> decades. I have something like 4 dozen rockers etc to pick through and
> get
> cherry ones. Gotta buy new valves though, mine are all crap. Depending
> on
> $$$ I may just disassemble, clean, reinstall my current head with
> it's
> cleaned up used valves. Some lips are too thin, but I can get a few
> years
> out of it and when the time comes, build a new head and swap.
> 
> Related to that: I absolutely will do the full-flow hack to a stock
> oil
> pump. It's gonna be easy! I might simply make a new end cap for the
> pump. A
> flat chink of 1/4" steel with four holes and one milled grove to oil
> one
> gear. And tap and plug the pump body outlet. The 2nd donor's pump
> looks
> good, I'll feeler guage it and hopefully I won't have to buy a new
> one. Pump
> will output through the top plate, to the remote filter, and return to
> the
> block at the 3/8" pipe plugged hole in the main gallery right above
> the
> pump. I even have a remote kit but I probably need some hose fittings.
> Drop
> dead mission critical, don't want the main oil feed to pop off!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ARP studs came today (fast! they're in Ventura) and those fit fine
> and
> will work out great. It will go together with ARP moly. Was $125
> total.
> Sigh, I suppose I should get new conn rod bolts, maybe (not for
> certain)
> main bolts. Yeah, it's a slow-turning motor, but it's a long stroke
> and high
> mass -- accell. forces are probably as high as a 6000 rpm motor.
> That's 12
> bolts and nuts (ouch) but I can use their lowest-end products. No
> other
> mission-critical fasteners I can think of that warrant $5 each in
> this
> motor. I want to be able to run it at 4000 for a minute or two at a
> time.
> Sounds slow, but redline is 4500, and if you're in the car when you do
> that,
> you'd understand why! It's a lot of mass flinging around!
> 
> I have 18 conn rods to choose from, so I will do what I did on my
> 232,
> mix'n'match balance. I have a good scale at work. Again, slow turning,
> but
> long stroke, large mass. If I can afford it I'll get the crank
> balanced
> after I get all the rods+pistons the same weight.
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