Re: [AMC-list] Testing an Overdrive Solenoid

[Frank Swygert <farna@xxxxxxx>]

You also need to take the "back" cover off the solenoid. There is a set of contact points in there that need to be cleaned and squared just like ignition points. IIRC those are ignition cut-out contact, would have to look at the schematic again to be sure. But they do need to be cleaned and squared. Do the same to the contact points in the governor cap. I've had ODs stop working simply because those points were burned! There are two types of governors -- a one-wire and a two-wire. Both are basically the same, the one-wire just ground through the trans case, the other wire on a two-wire is a ground. They can be interchanged, and I've had to run a ground wire from a governor cap screw to the body to reduce arcing at the points too. 

One last thing -- just because the solenoid cycles doesn't mean it will work! I had one that worked fine out of the car for testing, but didn't have enough power to push the OD pawl in when on the trans. If you run into that I think most auto electric places can rebuild or get another solenoid.

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Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:59:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Joe Fulton <piper_pa20@xxxxxxxxxxx>

I'm rehabbing the spare transmission for my 64 Classic in preparation for installing it very soon.  I removed the overdrive solenoid and connected the blue wire to the negative battery post and the orange wire to the positive post. Nothing happened.  The solenoid should cycle should it not, even if there was no ground connect to allow the coil to be held "in"?

Answered my own question.  You do need the housing connected to ground.  My solenoic works when that connection is made.


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Frank Swygert
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