[Amc-list] Spring Flush

["Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I'm seriously thinking of getting the white Javelin operable again for the
year after it's long winter sleep. The weather has warmed up and most of the
snow is gone. We need a couple of good spring rains to clean the winter
debris off the street, and I will be able to take the car out for a cruise.

I put Sea Foam in the cylinders and blocked off the carburetor and exhaust
last fall to keep air movement through the engine to a minimum. I rotated
the engine over every so often with the belts. I will have to plug in the
engine heater to get it warmed up before cranking the engine and getting it
running because it has 40 weight racing oil in it and the temperatures
around here are still pretty cool.

I have five quarts of old Red Line 20W50 synthetic lube and two gallons of
old 20W50 Amsoil synthetic lube.  The containers have never been opened. I
asked an Amsoil representative about using old synthetic and he said it
would be absolutely OK. He said the synthetic lubricants don't deteriorate
over time in a sealed container. What I'm thinking of doing is draining out
a quart of the Valvoline racing oil that's in the engine now and adding a
quart of engine flush. I'm hoping that will clean out the old stuff pretty
good. I've heard that the pan should come off after doing this. I was
wondering what you guys think. I have religiously changed oil every 2000
miles or so since I've owned the car. I have run the engine to full
operating temperature almost every time I started it. I have replaced the
valve cover gaskets in the last few years and did not see any buildup, just
the light coating of oil black on the inside of the covers. I had the intake
off the engine in the late 70s and saw a buildup of baked oil on the heat
crossover area and the tin pan on the bottom of the intake. If I swap to an
aluminum intake first and then flush the engine.............
I don't think I can raise the engine enough to get the pan off because the T
5 transmission is almost up against the bottom of the tunnel. I don't think
I can get the pan off without removing the engine, or dropping the
crossmember.  I'm not really sure I want to do that at this time.


Am I being dumb?? (please keep the wisecracks to a minimum but they are
allowed.........  :-)


Should I just leave well enough alone and continue to use the Valvoline 40
weight and not flush the engine or switch to synthetic?
I have about a case of Valvoline 40 weight racing oil, from before they
changed the ingredients. Plan was to use this for break in oil for a fresh
engine, but I can always keep five quarts or so for that, or use that GM EOS
and some "modern" oil.

Should I use the synthetic without flushing the engine?

Opinions and personal experience comments are welcome,

Thanks,

Armand



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