Re: [Amc-list] Classic Brakes

["jerijan baldwin" <jerijan@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Greetings...
Ah, yes...I forgot 'that' too!  Not just 'design flaws' contributory
factors, but that nemisis of quality, 'PreviousOwners'.
Without being harshly critical, let's leave that discussion with this:
Well meant repairs don't necessarily equate to 'quality Repair' (Also known
as 'correct repair').
A list of possibilities, most especially considering the age of these cars
(and thereby rendering a much larger 'basket' (ie, years) into which the
following 'might' occur;
Wrong parts; substituting a part that fits but is smaller, functions
differently, operates backwards, looks the same but just aint, etc, etc..
Installed because the parts store guy said 'this fits', or 'the book calls
for this', etc, etc, etc.  Close, but NO Cigar.
Incorrect installation; ever seen a disc pad installed with the metal part
engageing the disc??  Know the difference between 'primary' and 'secondary'
brake shoes?  
Good Guess Guys; a supposition substituting for a fact.  You get to imagine
what havoc this may induce.  For example, 'you don't need that clip anyway,
it'll stay just as well without it'.  (Well, maybe it will stay...and maybe
not?)
Wrong size, right shape.  (Like a two inch drum instead of 2 1/2...or vice
versa.  Or some variation thereof).
'Temporary fix'.  YEAH!  Duct tape...Elmer's Glue...'nail is just as good as
a cotter pin'...etc, etc, etc.
MOST of the repairs I end up doing on my cars is somehow related to a
previous repair either directly or indirectly.
In my day I've done my share of 'CobJobs' and learned (the hard way) just
why it's best NOT TO DO THEM...  There will be a time when repairing a
radiator with gum (which DOES work) beats walking home, but there is never a
time when the gum repair will pass for 'good work'.
Yup.  The previous owner, with intentions as good as gold, may have caused
your issues now and I'd be confident in saying that to consider that
possibility is your BEST avenue of approach.

A good rule of thumb applies here; when you find something cobbed up (that
is what you get when you do a 'cob job', a 'cobbed up' mess.), UNDO the
entire thing and start it all over at the beginning.  In the end it will
save copious amounts of time and aggravation and produce a satisfactory
result in half the time.

Jj


-----Original Message-----
From: amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:amc-list-bounces@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
On Behalf Of Joe Fulton
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 11:20 AM
To: AMC/Rambler owners, drivers and fans.
Subject: Re: [Amc-list] Classic Brakes

My advice is get a copy of the Technical Service Manual for your car.  It
will have the wiring diagram and you should be able to troubleshoot your
temperature gauge.  I had a 62 Classic wagon for awhile but scrapped it due
to rust (my mistake, it could have been fixed).   1962 was the first year
for the dual master cylinder.  I know that repair kits for that master
cylinder were very hard to find (I looked.).

The previous owner may have put the wrong master cylinder with a different
piston bore size in the car.  A different bore size will make a diffence in
the required pedal pressure I think.  It's been argued about (excuse me,
discussed) here on the list before.  Also check to see if the master
cylinder rod is in the lowest attachment hole on the brake pedal arm.  That
will produce more leverage and reduce your pedal pressure.  I'd recommend
pulling the drums and having a look to see if the shoes and drums and clean
and dry or if there's oil or brake fluid contamination.

Joe Fulton



--- On Fri, 10/24/08, mask1966@xxxxxxx <mask1966@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: mask1966@xxxxxxx <mask1966@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Amc-list] Classic Brakes
> To: amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, October 24, 2008, 8:01 AM
> Hey Guys,
> I finally picked up the '62 Rambler Classic Custom I
> bought a few of 
> weeks ago. It is everything and more (41K original miles is
> very nice 
> condition) I hoped for. It has it's problems, but the
> one I find the 
> most disturbing is the brakes or lack of. The master
> cylinder was 
> rebuilt last year and wheel cylinders replaced the year
> before, but the 
> braking is poor at best. It takes a lot of pedal pressure
> just to slow 
> down at city speeds. Road speeds are really scary. It has
> manual brakes 
> (no power) and does not pull either left or right. It just
> takes a long 
> time to slow down. Is this the norm for this model or do I
> have a 
> problem? How does your braking compare? I thought with a
> dual M/C and 
> new W/C, this thing should stop at least as good as my
> '53 Ford and '65 
> Chevy with drums. Give a new AMC owner a little help before
> I rear end 
> someone.
> 
> Also my temp gauge does not work. A previous owner
> installed an 
> accessory type gauge under the dash, but I would like to
> fix the stock 
> unit and get rid of the after market junk. Is the stock
> gauge electric 
> or bourdon tube type? How should I start to check it
> out/fix it?
> 
> I appreciate any and all help I can get with these
> problems. I know 
> there are years of experience working with AMC iron out
> there. Thanks 
> again.
> 
> Mike Klepp
> '62 Rambler Classic Custom
> '65 Chevy C-10
> '53 Ford Customline
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