Re: [Amc-list] T-96... again!

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I've seen runout checked on bellhousing alignments and it is actually not that hard to do.
IIRC, it is done off the flywheel and you measure runout by turning the engine and watching the dial indicator.
  There has to be a web page showing it. I know the car mags have covered it.
  For sure no matter what you end up doing, you will want to check that if your running that engine and bell or and part of the setup again!

Who knows how it got that way, but you'd best be checking things if you have any doubts.
Course if it doesn't do it again, GOOD!   

Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > Oh, man that sucks...
> 
> Oh yeah, no kidding!
> 
> I did think of one thing external that could ruin the pocket bearings on 
> an otherwise correctly assembled transmission.
> 
> If the bellhousing wasn't concentric with the pilot bearing, it would 
> cock the input shaft, so that it wasn't perfectly concentric, pilot to 
> clutch shaft bearing to pocket bearing to output shaft bearing. If you 
> were to (for example) press upward on the tip of the input shaft while 
> running, the shaft would pivot on the big bearing, pressing DOWN on the 
> pocket bearings which are not designed for any side load.
> 
> But that would mean that the trans locating hole wasn't concentric with 
> the pilot, which makes no sense here. It's the trans and bell that were 
> in the car. Both times I installed the transmission, lifting it by hand 
> into the bell, it slipped right in, smoothly, perfectly with no force 
> required. Up nice and flat on the back of the bell, no gap. Bolts went 
> in by hand then torqued (cept could reach one of the uppers of course 
> that went in with 3 feet of 3/8" extensions and a swivel socket). I 
> checked overall depth to make sure the tip of the input shaft wasn't 
> bottoming (which would have made no sense, either.)
> 
> Clutch is smooth, with the tiniest shudder when the motor speed is under 
> 1000 rpm and I'm unclutching "fast"; 1000 rpm, or feathered clutch, it's 
> perfect. Absolutely silent, the only noise was a SSSSHH sandpapery sound 
> on engagement for the first days of the clutch surface wear in. 
> Completely perfect clutch operation at all times, zero pedal feel, 
> vibration, noise, etc.
> 
> Maybe it's a one-time fluke, maybe I wasn't paying attention and didn't 
> de-clutch enough (just finished a long drive home) but to be honest, I 
> know it's not that. I'll double-check fluid, but it's not dripped a drop 
> since install.
> 
> I'm certain I'll have my answer in a week or two! It'll never happen 
> again or become regular until it's unshiftable.
> 
> Not even sure how I'd check for problems in the bell and clutch area. 
> Misalignment is the only thing I could think of that could possibly do 
> this. I could have screwed up the first time, but the second time, man I 
> not only double-checked all clearances, I went by the drawings, and 
> determined where play ought to be and why, and where it should not be, 
> and everything cross-checked 100%. I know it's assembled right this 
> time! They're not that fussy anyways, I mean really, too much/little 
> play won't eat the pocket bearings and grind the hardened friction ring 
> cones!
> 
> If it does go bad, I have a hard problem to locate. That T-14 will go in 
> and I'll real with finding a rear axle to bring the overall ratio up. OD 
> will be sorely missed.
> _______________________________________________
> Amc-list mailing list
> Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list

_______________________________________________
Amc-list mailing list
Amc-list@xxxxxxxxxxxx
http://splatter.wps.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/amc-list