Re: [Amc-list] 7 Main Bearing engine into 62 Classic

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

What ever you do.
Do NOT use one of the scotchbrite pads on a drill or diegrinder to clean gasket surfaces!
They will remove metal!
100% of the time.
I very carefully used one years ago on a head. Then decided I did not fully trust my work and took it to have it resurfaced. I stood and watched the process. I could not believe how crooked the face of that head was! 
I have never used one of those scotchbrite pads again!
  Save them for body work!

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>
> Bruce Griffis wrote:
> 
> > I'll try replacing the head gasket one more time and not put so much
> > Permatex Copper tube goo on it. I'm thinking I did a poor job on the
> > headgasket and that is part of my problems (exhaust is blue from oil,
> > but also has a HECK of a lot of condensation in it. Not sure if I got
> > a problem with rings and headgasket, or just one, or just the other.
> 
> Oh you;ll get it to go.
> 
> Get a box of 100 single-edged razor blades (you don't need that many; 
> but having a box of 100 you wont be stingy with them) and get the entire 
> block deck surface clean to metal. If it's dark grey or black, that's 
> old gasket or goo (or corrosion). Scrape it off!
> 
> YOu'll probably get a slight ring of shiny metal around each bolt hole. 
> THat's block metal pulling up due to torque. It's normal if it's slight 
> (not good, just normal :-)
> 
> DO the same to the head, but that shoudl be easy if you just had the 
> head redone. If it's not perfect, make it so. YOu don't want metal 
> filings in the engine, but lightly and carefully running a fine file 
> over the deck, then head surface, will reveal high spots (like if the 
> head klunked into the block during assembly, etc). I have a short piece 
> of broken file that I use for stuff like this, you can keep rags around 
> it. Better to risk a bit of steel shaving than carborundum from sand 
> paper. Paper's not flat either.
> 
> Solvent on CLEAN, LAUNDERED rags, wipe the sealing surfaces until the 
> rags are almost clean. Then I don't even touch the surface. Smokey 
> Yunick said: 'no engine ever died from being too clean' and though he 
> meant internals, it applies everywhere there's an intentional seal or 
> mating surface.
> 
> 
> If you are REALLY paranoid, you could set the head on the block before 
> you put any good or gaskets on, gently. It should slide smoothly, not 
> rock in any direction (like zero, none, not paper width) and not have 
> klunky corners to catch on anything.
> 
> You need gasket goo (Permatex Copper or something old fashioned) but 
> hardly any at all. Very thin coat on all four surfaces. You should be 
> able to see through it. It's hard to get really even but you shoudl get 
> close. It should be dry/tacky (15 minutes is fine).
> 
> When you set the head on that final time, don't slide it. That'll mess 
> up your nicely applied goo. This is tough, that head is heavy and it's 
> in a deep engine compartment! But you have helpful kids!
> 
> 
> If one of our engine experts says otherwise, believe them over me for sure!
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