Re: [Amc-list] Muskeeter rings and procedures

[Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Hell, I don't know!
Now you done gone and confused me agin...

--
Mark Price
Morgantown, WV
1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
" I realize that death is inevitable.
I just don't want to be around when it happens! "

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Ken Ames <ameskg@xxxxxxxxx>
> Isn't graphite one of the '3' in '3in1'? You might not want that on your 
> pistons.
>  
> Ken 
> 
> 
> Quoting Wrambler242@xxxxxxxxxxx:
> 
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > I guess from this reading I will keep the parts seperate till I have a time
> > frame for the actual install.
> > No sense in assemblying and prepping for storage etc;
> >    I'll do it when i've got the T5 and other items in place for the swap.
> > I like the idea of doing it right and having rings seat asap!
> > 
> >    To think years ago I watched my dad bitch a guy out cause he did a rebuild
> > and did NOT oil the cylinders and rings!!!  It was an in van rebuild too...
> > Should have kept his mouth shut and it woul dhave been fine!
> > 
> >    I'l be picking up a can of 3 in 1 oil for the shop I guess :]
> > 
> > Just drove the American again today, days are getting short, will be time to
> > put it to bed soon :[
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > Mark Price
> > Morgantown, WV
> > 1969 AMC Rambler, 4.0L, EFI, T-5
> > 2004 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.7L, Quadratrac II
> > " I realize that death is inevitable.
> > I just don't want to be around when it happens! "
> > 
> >  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: "Bruce Hevner" <scramblr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> > > Uh, antifriction lube? Would you use this on a the Coated Skirt piston?>>>
> > > 
> > > The procedure I described is used on all types pistons.
> > > 
> > > So, Basically your saying you don't get assembly lube anywhere near the
> > > rings and use 3 in 1 oil in the ring grooves and let the rings pretty much
> > > dry?>>>
> > > 
> > > That is correct. Just a couple of drops of 3-1 oil and rotate the rings to
> > > make sure it is worked into the groves. No problem if you get a little on
> > > the face of the rings. A few drops on the cylinder walls spread evenly,
> > not
> > > excessively, and wiped with a rag.. The reason for 3-1 oil is it has
> > > essentially no anti-wear additives.
> > > 
> > >    Call me old and unschooled on this, but I always used plain old engine
> > > oil and pretty much lubed the crap out of the bores and pistons with it. I
> > > take it I was doing it wrong?>>>
> > > 
> > > I am suggesting a method to help prevent a condition known as "wet
> > > Cylinder". It was suggested to me by a piston ring company engineer many
> > > years ago. At the time I was not having any problems and was told it's a
> > > better way for the rings to get a "bite" into the cylinder wall before
> > they
> > > are exposed to any anti-wear additives that might be in the break in oil.
> > I
> > > HAVE seen guys have the "wet cylinder" problem. A freshly rebuilt motor
> > that
> > > has one or more cylinders pumping oil. Upon disassembly the rings for the
> > > cylinder in question would exhibit little to no contact on the wearing
> > edge.
> > > Like they had never even been in the engine. Modern anti-wear additives
> > can
> > > be SO good as to completely prevent the rings from wearing in to the
> > > cylinder wall. I would actually have to give the cylinder in question a
> > few
> > > strokes with the hone to remove them!! Wash the rings with mineral spirits
> > > and re assemble the engine. Fixed it every time. The most common culprit
> > > seemed to be STP.
> > > 
> > > 
> > >     I was trained in auto body work at Vale tech, a pre Wyotech school. I
> > > must admit I never received formal training on engine rebuilds. Just what
> > I
> > > was told and read, some of it probably apparently incorrect. Funny how
> > back
> > > in the day you could work your way up in a dealership, get an ASE master
> > > tech certification, yet never take and actual engine rebuild class!>>>
> > > 
> > > I learned my trade in the school of hard knocks. I started as a floor
> > sweep
> > > in a custom engine shop in 1966. I watched, and asked a lot of questions,
> > I
> > > learned what processes were successful and which ones failed. Now, 40
> > years
> > > later I realize many of the things we did back then were wrong or maybe
> > not
> > > being done as properly as they are done today. I go to as many trade shows
> > > as I can and talk with as many folks as I can. I try different procedures
> > on
> > > my own motors. Read, read, read.
> > >  I am an ASE Certified Master Engine Machinist,, 3 time re-certified. In
> > my
> > > opinion the ASE test should be a little harder. I usually end up 85-95%  
> > > 
> > > 
> > >    I never had a rebuild fail on me over the years though! No smokers or
> > > other failures. So I must not have screwed up too bad...>>
> > > 
> > > I am only suggesting a procedure that has worked 100% for me. Hopefully to
> > > give someone the benefit of my rebuilding experience from hundreds of
> > engine
> > > rebuilds over 40 years. I am not casting doubt on your rebuilding
> > abilities,
> > > only trying to help folks without as much experience.
> > > 
> > > If the theory works,, use it. If WHAT YOUR DOING WORKS,,, change the
> > theory.
> > > 
> > > But HEY,,, that's just ME!
> > > Bruce Hevner
> > > --
> > > 
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