Re: [Amc-list] Before and After engine compartment

["Armand Eshleman" <aje1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

My experience has been closer to Marks,
I have more trouble with the tube "freezing" to the nut, than I have trouble
with the threaded connections. It seems you can always get the threads to
turn even if you have to use the proverbial universal wrench (vice grip).
I found a way to get past some of those troubles and save the tube and the
nut. I remove the caliper or wheel cylinder from the backing plate, and spin
it off the nut instead of turning the nut. Then I use a Map Gas torch and
heat up the nut, tap a bit lightly with the hammer, spray a bit of Kroil or
PB blaster at it and it busts the rust "freeze" every time. This method, of
course, may not work for all situations...........
Armand


Mark Price said...
I wonder how well it would do in protecting against corrosion, snapped off
bleeders, lines frozen to fittings etc;


> Tom Jennings said....
> Teflon sealant would help prevent the joint from seizing, making it more
> maintainable. It would seal out water etc and reduce the contact area in
> the threads so corrosion that did get in wouldn't have so much leverage
> at removal time.

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