Re: [Amc-list] Might have to go back to commuting, urgh ....

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

Frank Swygert wrote:

> The only other things that are likely to fail over a length of time
> is the starter and generator. 

THat starter is common as dirt -- all old apps, but many. A Fireball 
Atomic Four (boat motor) uses EXACTLY the same starter. Just some Ford 
thing.

What mainly goes wrong with them is the long screws holding the solenoid 
together loosen, and you get intermittent starting -- click click -- 
click click -- then randomly it cranks fine. Loose screws! Otherwise 
they deteriorate slowly and you get advance notice of impending doom.

The generators also deteriorate slowly; lift the hood at night with the 
engine running, if you can read a newspaper from the blue glow off the 
commutator, rebuild it! (I'm only partly joking here.) The regulators 
stick, and sometimes fail outright. There's like 5 people in the U.S. 
who want to work on THOSE things. Mine sticks (the pull-in relay 
doesn't) and I have to tap it with a tire iron.

Water pumps and fuel pumps scare me more. Fuel pumps die slowly, but you 
usually don't notice until it wont run, or it makes a puddle of fuel on 
the ground! Bad time to have to mail order a part! I carry a rebuilt 
spare (!) in the trunk.  (1) you'll likely need one someday (2) you'll 
have it ready (3) you can always sell it for a profit.

Same with water pump. Rock Auto has 'em cheap and new and somehow, the 
right part. I carry a spare also.

These parts die no faster than any other car's pumps, probably less, but 
they're old and it's most inconvenient when they do.



The things that I am very paranoid about in commuter antiques are, in order:

tires
wheels
brakes
alignment
cooling system
carburetor
ignition
electrics
"conveniences"

Top of the list is most important, but once good, require least 
attention. The bottom of the list is less important, but seems to 
attract more attention!


The first three are the most important, the most expensive, but then the 
least hassle+cost+problem once you get them right. To me, what makes an 
old car crappy are non-power chassis stuff -- rattly front end that 
dives and shudders (unsafe, embarassing, no fun and a chore to drive, 
and ruins other parts), dead springs, suspensions that don't stay in 
alignment and so eat tires. Crappy brakes are just foolish for 
commuting, and you can get good tires for cheap.

Don't overlook boring old wheels -- dents, rusty leaks, wobble, rotten 
lug nuts, all that crap makes you crazy. Tires won't hold air wear out, 
car pulls funny, etc. Wheels are cheap ($50 each new, worst case) and 
last "forever".

A new set of tires costs me $400 and they last 5 years. 34psi regardless 
of brand. I get good quality no-name Korean tires from my local 
reputable shop and have ZERO problems. I check air every couple of 
months, and they never need ANY. I rotate 'em once a year or so. I get 5 
tires at a time, old-fashioned style.

Under the hood seems most obvious but basically steady highway speeds 
are really easy on engines! COnstant medium speed, medium load, tons of 
cooling air, etc. Electronic ignition is mandatory, or adjust points 
monthly! Ugh. And at 3000 rpm points are pretty much at their maximum 
output.

Cooling system matters the most, other than things that 'break'. I'm 
convinced that the 'high flow' thermostats are a a failproof upgrade for 
deadstock cooling systems. One look at them and it's obvious that they 
will flow more water when open -- I can see NO reason to restrict the 
flow that the already crappy water pump moves.

Factory stamped-steel fans SUCK. They are rarely balanced, and being at 
the end of the water pump shaft, they wobble and eat the bushing, and 
shorten pump life, I think a lot. Electric or at least cheap aftermarket 
flex fan. Flex-O-Lite from NAPA are good. Two row radiator is fine. All 
flushed and clean, as little antifreeze as you can run safely.

Bad wiring will make you nuts, collect fix-it tickets, and maybe get you 
hit by other cars. Bad wiring is the bane of old cars, but lighting 
issues are usually "just" socket problems. "Just", yeah right, it can be 
a PITA to get them working! I replace everythign I can, but the rest I 
disassemble, wire brush, sand, steel wool, etc. Cut off plastic boots, 
then seal later with heatshrink tubing and/or layers of silicone.

ANd pack the sockets with ordinary chassis grease BEFORE you put the 
lamp in. It will keep h2o (water and condensation) off the contacts. The 
grease is an insulator but doesn't matter -- the spring will make 
metal-to-metal contact. No need to use fancy silicone, and that s**t 
creeps all over everything and melts when it's hot. Chassis grease stays 
thick.

"Conveniences" like radio, iPod etc -- I swear I spend more time in the 
car fiddling with this non-essential essential crap than I do working on 
the car. My current lazy-a** stereo solution is a brick amp under the 
seat, speakers in the doors, and an RCA-to-miniplug  dangling on the 
hump. Then I plug my Creative Zen ("ipod" workalike) into it. Done.




At least a couple times a week I look under the car for "surprises". I 
listen to EVERY SINGLE NOISE and IDENTIFY IT. THat I think is my #1 
trick for heading off problems. Plus anything that doesn't "feel" 
exactly (I mean exactly) right, I IDENTIFY it. It might be minor, or 
major, but ID it.

I'm not exaggerating when I say I know absolutely every single noise 
that my Classic wagon makes, and I think, every noise the little Rambler 
makes. Every. Single. Noise. I usually try to eliminate them (the fold 
down seat back latch squeaks, never succeeded with that one!) or ID 
them. I was certain that my home-made strut bushings were groaning, so I 
squirt some WD40 on it to see if that would make it shut up (ID it). 
Nope! Turns out, I my lower arm inner bolt (the eccentric) wasn't tight 
enough.


Once a month or so, I put two fingers on the hub of every wheel 
(including my trailer, if I'm pulling it). Bad bearings get hot! 
Unbalanced brakes one side gets hotter than the other. (Check side to 
side, not front to rear.)

If the car starts pulling slightly to one side? No need to panic, but I 
test it next stop, is it me? Wet? Dirt? One time? Occasionally? If it's 
mild, I'll wait til the weekend, if it persists jack it and spin the 
weel, look at the disc or drum, etc. Usually it's a false alarm. Takes 
10, 20 minutes.

But also while you're investigating what turns out to be nothing, you 
are also, by the way: looking at the tires. Seeing leaks. Looking for 
shiny spots, wear, heat, etc. THAT is how you HEAD OFF problems in the 
first place... a major reason to wash a car, for me, is a close-up 
inspection.
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